Hardwear Sessions

ESPN Story, Taking Oakland Kids From the Killing Field to the Football Field

Marquis Perrilliat, son of Mountain Hardwear Employee Mark Perrilliat, is on the undefeated and unscored Berkeley Junior Bears Pop Warner football team which is featured in an ESPN story called, Choosing Between Death and Football.

ESPN Junior Bears

The Junior Bears are undefeated and unscored on this year. | Photo by Tim Keown/ESPN.com

By Tim Keown
Say you drive by an old softball field next to an old schoolhouse like the one on the 6200 block of San Pablo Avenue in Oakland, Calif. There are a bunch of little kids out there in blue-and-gold football uniforms, 11 of them moving together like mercury under the dim lights. You glance over, maybe take a look until the traffic light turns green. Then you're gone.

But let's take a closer look. Park next to the playground, walk across the asphalt, through the infield dirt -- careful to tiptoe through the goose poop -- and onto the grass. See that guy in the blue-and-gold windbreaker and the blue-and-gold baseball cap and the huge smile? That's 47-year-old Todd Walker, the assistant coach of the Berkeley Junior Bears Pop Warner football team. You want to know what sports can do? Spend a few minutes listening to Coach Walker.

>>Read it here.

Making weekend plans? Come to MHW!

Newfoundland, New Routes and Exploration

Sarah Garlick, Kirsten Kremer, and Janet Bergman head north to Newfoundland for unclimbed granite and massive blueberry patches.

>>Read the Article, FAR found on Alpine Briefs, a newsletter from the editors of the American Alpine Journal.

Newfoundland, new routes and exploration!

Weekend Golden Nut Winners!

Mountain Hardwear gave out 10 itunes gift certificates for finding the Golden Nut! Join the hunt and win big, enter here.

Marc Hoffmeister is the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year!

Marc Hoffmeister National Geographic Adventurers of the Year!

Photograph by Matt Hage

Operation Denali, an expedition of wounded Iraq war veterans who, sponosored in part by Mountain Hardwear and our Expedition Sponsorship Program, put an assault on Denali in June with a team of 6 (including a few amputees), was honored today when the team leader, Marc Hoffmeister, was selected as a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year.

Team Operation Denali

>>View Marc Hoffmeister photo gallery

June 1, 2009 - The Operation Denali team takes the "mandatory" pre-climb picture at the airfield in Talkeetna before departing for base camp. Front row, left to right: Marc Hoffmeister, Gayle Hoffmeister, Todd Tumolo, Dave Shebib, and Matt Nyman. Back row, left to right: Bob Haines, Jon Kuniholm, Matt Montavon, and Kirby Senden.

By David Roberts
It was April 2007. Serving in the U.S. Army in Iraq, Hoffmeister, then 37 years old, was riding in an Army Humvee. The troops were on patrol outside Al Hillah when an IED tore their vehicle to shreds. "I knew I was badly hurt," Hoffmeister says today. "I was staring through a large hole in my left arm. I couldn't feel anything. I couldn't hear." Hoffmeister was evacuated to a hospital in Germany, then sent on a 29-hour "hell flight" home. Eight surgeries on his arm followed, and months of pain-racked convalescence. Then the depression set in. Though back in his hometown of Eagle River, Alaska, Hoffmeister felt completely at loose ends. "I was just on the couch, doing nothing," he says.

>>Read the Story here

2010 Applications are due November 15th! The Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship Program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. Download the 2010 Application Here

Hardwear Crew

" One of my favorite perks about working at Mountain Hardwear is its location at the north end of the Bay Trail. Everyday I have a beautiful bike ride along the bay and which often includes a ride up into the Berkeley Hills on my way to work in the morning. Coming down those hills can be chilly in the early hours! My Heavyweight Powerstretch Gloves keep my fingers from freezing and they have a gripper patches on the inner palm which provide more protection and help when picking up my bike.

I also love bicycle camping and have found that the Sprite/Ghisallo tents are essential pieces- they are very lightweight and packable and have specifically-designed vestibule to keep my bicycle out of view. When I go for a quick excursion I usually pack the Sprite tent. The Power Stretch Jacket is a well-fitting hooded layering piece that keeps me warm both on overnight camping trips and rides along the windy Bay Trail." - Brooke Appler, Design Associate/Outerwear

Visit the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page and SHARE what Mountain Hardwear gear you recommend on the Discussions Tab up top.

>> Click here to view Mountain Hardwear Employees

Fall Sample Sale!

It's November already and that means the Fall Sample Sale is almost upon us!!!

F09 Mountain Hardwear Sale

Grand Prize - A Complete Mountain Hardwear Gear Collection!

Find the Golden Nut!

Mountain Hardwear fans know the Nut stands for adventure, so we thought we'd add a little adventure to your Web wanderings too. When you find the Golden Nut in a banner ad, it's your chance to win instantly! For those who seek adventure, the Golden Nut awaits. To enter visit Find the Golden Nut.

Rough Love

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Julia Niles

Kalymnos is pretty cool I guess. If you like the warm Mediterranean ocean and climbing on huge jugs in overhanging terrain. The living is easy when you are not busy hanging off of stalactites. This simple town of Massouri could not be a more pleasant basecamp.

Kalymnos Greece

Sunbathing in Kalymnos Greece | Photo by James Q Martin

That said, there are some inconveniences. There are killer mosquitoes that barely make a noise and bite! It causes skin to well up into poison ivy like blisters that last up to a week. (Apparently they do not have the same effect on everyone.) And the goats. Tim almost got rammed early in the trip. He slapped it on the ass as he was fed up with the raunchy smell and threat to human food. This, we learned, is not the proper tactic. The goat turned, bowed his head, and charged Tim's gonads. Luckily, Tim's cat-like reflexes allowed him to grab the projected horns and show the cud chewing beast who's boss. But, it was a good lesson. From then on, we simply humored the goats with the odd banana peel and stayed away. And then there's the weather. Apparently this November has been the coldest in eight years. Poor Sean takes his first vacation in a year only to visit an island across the seas with only a little less rain than our home in Squamish.

Kalymnos

Downpours while on vacation. | Photo by Julia Niles

Now this may sound like complaining but as Dawn declared early on in our adventure, "Anyone who complains here is a jerk." Therefore, from then on nobody complained. We simply "stated facts."

I would say that the crescendo of our trip came three days ago. When I on-sighted Ivi (7b), and thus inflated, hopped on the epic Priapus (7c). Sadly, this was an epic journey on a fabulous route, with only one problem - me. Somehow, Gravity chose this moment to flex its (very large) muscle, and I morphed from monkey into bird- flight can be just as fun as climbing sometimes. But my timing sucked. After Sean rescued me by putting the rope up there, I got to top-rope it. It felt easy! Not only because of his merciful belaying technique: it's called "keep tension at all times because its getting dark and my girlfriend's crazy."

Julia Niles

Climbing at dusk. | Photo by James Q Martin

We awoke the next morning with all sorts of battle scars. As I've been saying, this island is brutal! The climbing since then has been a bit rough. I tried a route I onsighted easily at the beginning of the trip and barely got up it. Somehow that Priapus gravity stuck. Or maybe it is all the cheese. The Greek eat a lot of cheese. A couple of our climber friends don't eat cheese. This is not acceptable to the locals. You have to specify "please no cheese, and no feta" because they don't consider feta to be cheese. This statement is about fifty percent effective when ordering food.

However, I must say that it is hard to ignore the glaring fact that this place will make a sport climber out of anybody. Even Dawn, Sean, and I, three cold-weather, alpine loving fools, are beginning to rethink our specialty. Maybe it wouldn't be so hard to just sport climb. Our destinations would shift from The Waddington, Patagonia, Pakistan, and Alaska to Sardinia, Mallorca, and at the extreme, Turkey. It might be a good prescription for health. The steep climbing feels like the best cross training ever. Instead of making the crimps smaller as you increase the grade, here the routes simply get steeper. My whole body gets pumped.

Julia Niles

Difficult routes. | Photo by James Q Martin

Despite all the hardship, I truly believe that we might have become better people and maybe even better climbers upon returning home. But if not, at least we'll be fat and happy!

What does Mike Wallenfels, President of MH have on his Ipod?

Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear

Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear on Cathedral Peak

Listen to the recording of 106.1 FM The Corner Monday morning "Get Moving Charlottesville" segment with Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear. He talks about staying active despite such a busy career and position.

106.1 FM

Go to: 1061 thecorner.com scroll down the page and you will see Mike's interview "Get Moving Charlottesville".

Climb of Mt. Ararat - The Mythical Resting Place of Noah's Ark

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

Petrified Ark Ruins

Petrified Ark Ruins | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Rising high into the thin dry air of eastern Turkey, Mt. Ararat stands at almost 17,000 feet. Some geologists believe Mount Ararat to be the largest single-mass mountain in the world, since it rises uninterrupted from the plains surrounding it at 2,000 feet, while most other large mountains are in a mountain range with fewer differentials.

Mt. Ararat Straddles the politically embroiled borders of Turkey, Armenia and Iran and has a rich history. It lies on the western edge of what many consider the "Hearth of Humanity." From invading Mongol hordes to the biblical journey of the Apostle Paul, the mountain and surrounding range have long been a pivotal junction for culture and religion. Most famously, according to the story of Genesis, Chapter 6, Ararat is widely viewed as the final resting place of Noah's Ark.

Erik Weihenmayer

Beautiful scenic view of Mt. Ararat. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

This fall I teamed up with three Iranian climbers and my brother, Eddi, to scale the dormant volcano and take a step into its rich history. Behrouz Khabbaz Beheshti, the Iranian team organizer, is translating my memoir, Touch the Top of the World, into Farsi. He volunteers with an Iranian disability organization named, Bavar, meaning, "Believe" in English, and plans to sell the book in partnership with this organization. I'm donating all royalties to Bavar, the organization which has also served Behzour's younger brother who was born with cerebral palsy.

Behrouz was accompanied by his friend, Hassan Moghimi, born without one hand while still becoming a professional cyclist and accomplished climber.

Erik Weihenmayer

Mount Ararat trek. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

For three days we worked our way up the increasingly steep slopes of Ararat, and at 14,000 feet, stepped on to a spectacular glaciated ice cap 17 square miles in size and 350 feet deep. Kicking steps in the steep slope was tiring, especially for those on our team who started at sea level, yet the summit rewarded us with a windy yet sunny day.

Ararat Summit

Summit of Ararat | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Behrouz and I are now planning a future climb of Mt. Damavand (18,600 feet), the tallest peak in Iran. We hope to make a ski descent of the mountain.

Deep Water Soloing

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Julia Niles

I had a conversation with Dan from England last night at dinner about deep water soloing. He just came from Mallorca so was filled with facts about how to do it properly. Here's the list on how to jump from very high without getting hurt:

Kalymnos Greece

15 meters up and Julie Niles forms a know in her throat. | Photo by James Q Martin

1) Always leave your boots on
2) Blow out upon impact to keep your eardrums from blowing out
3) If possible fall into choppy sea
4) If there is no "chop" then throw a big boulder in the water a few seconds before jumping
5) Don't jump from high ground when there are no people in a boat ready to rescue you below
6) Don't breathe underwater: sadly we are no longer in the womb.

Kalymnos Greece Julia Niles

Julie Niles Climbing in Kalymnos Greece | Photo by James Q Martin

Not that we did too bad out there. We took a boat from Vathi on the Island of Kalymnos to give our ropes a day's rest. But there is a discernible knot that forms in my throat at about 15 meters that makes it very difficult to go any higher. I'm convinced that a few practice jumps are all I need...

Even the Retailers Want to Win MHW Jackets!

Mountain Hardwear held a visual merchandising contest for our Performance Elevated Retailers this October and encouraged them to get creative using Mountain Hardwear outerwear collections and fun props. The Grand Prize winner gets Mountain Hardwear jackets for their staff and all of our winners get bragging rights. Check out the winning displays...

Grand Prize - Diamond Brand Outdoors in Arden, NC Diamondbrand.com/

Wild Iris

1st Place - Wild Iris Mountain Sports in Lander, WY | WildIrisclimbing.com

Beaver Sports and Summit Hut

2nd Place - Beaver Sports in Fairbanks, AK | BeaverSports.com
3rd Place - Summit Hut in Tucson, AZ | SummitHut.com

Goats and Moussaka

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Julia Niles

Julie Niles Climbing in Kalymnos Greece

Julie Niles Climbing in Kalymnos Greece | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn and I were scheming and laughing that possibly we could travel somewhere to go sport climbing, rather than travel for our usual suffering on scary icy mountains when not stuck in the tent. It was a novel idea: to unwind from our recent years of guiding exams and cold adventures at the Island of Kalymnos. I thought she was a genius and I must admit I was dubious that it would all work. Now here I am inspired by the ridiculously steep climbing and silly tuffas while being soothed by the indulgent lifestyle. We wake to a swim in the morning. The light turns the world orange as we begin the day with Greek yogurt and Kalymnos honey. The crag is still cool in the early morning. The occasional drip from the tufas above remind you of the routes that make your belly turn. Like Priapus. This is an epic adventure. Thirty five meters of climbing some of the biggest tufas that allow you to sit on them to give your hands a rest. It is an epic journey requiring a whole hike to get back to your belayer when you get lowered. At 7c- it is sustained but if you can milk the rests...

Upon contemplation of this climb- the Grotto Goat shows up. Apparently this guy comes around often- and tends to leave his goat friends behind. He alone has befriended the climbers- wooed by banana peels and apple cores, this guy keeps the crag free of any food not well wrapped. And he does not blink at close contact with the necessary inconvenience- humans- that goes along with the food.

A Grotto goat befriended the climbers. | Photo by Julie Niles

The climbing here is outrageous. As soon as you can convince yourself that the exposure simply equates with safer falls- the rock is your playground. I love the rests- that seem to actually favor the traditional mountain climber types (like myself). There are tufa handjams, stemming, knee bars, back scums, and chimneys. For me- figuring them out is purely necessitated by need. But as soon as I figured out that the key to sending Trela or DNA or Sparticus is milking the rests because the climbing imbetween is far too steep- suddenly the grades melt to manageable journeys through tufa roofs.

Then, we are fueled by healthy and hearty local cuisine. I had been hunting for Moussaka at a few of the restaurants. Finally, last night I pinned down the waitress- asking for Moussaka (pronounced with great flair). I could not believe my taste buds- when all of my hopes of good food were blown out of the water. Cloves and sweet potatoes in a meet pie with eggplant, grape leaves, and cheese. It is rich enough to share and well worth ordering.

Today, we plan to go to a sink hole cave: apparently a stupendous geological wonder with some musical 7bs. Bring it on!

Julie Niles, a Lung Cancer Survivor
At age 25, Julia Niles was an accomplished climber--then a lung tumor threatened to ground her for good. She fought back, and has climbed even higher.
Read the article here.

Julia Niles Photo by Heather Erson

Julie Niles | Photo by Heather Erson Photography

Manaslu (8156m) Ski Descent - A First?

By Guy Willet from Dream Guides

On 28th September Guy Willett skied Manalslu, which at 8156m is the world's 8th highest mountain. Guy's ski descent is the second ever descent of Manalsu, with the first being in 1981. This just goes to show how infrequently successful ski descents of 8000m peaks are made. (*note - the 'completeness' of the Austrian 1981 descent is still to be confirmed - Guy's could be the first 'complete' ski descent)

About Guy:
Guy is a British IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in Chamonix. Along with MHW athlete Kenton Cool, he runs Dream Guides. He has many steep descents to his credit in the Alps and first descents in Greenland and Alaska.

The Route: North East Face route (in ascent & descent) with deviations to avoid rappelling steep icy sections.

Manaslu ski route

Manaslu ski route (Click to enlarge) | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

The Ascent

Basecamp is at 4850m and a moraine walk and rocky step lead to 'Crampon Point' (5050m), where the route joins the glacier and roping up becomes the norm. The route to Camp 1 weaves through crevasses before heading to the top of a rocky promontory on the right at 5750m, just below the Icefall.

Manaslu climb

Camp 1 weaves through crevasses. I Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

Leaving the tent at C1 the route continues up a short snow crest to 5850m, where it joins the Icefall and traverses left through several complex crevasses and crosses under an active serac at 5900m (this is the one serious objective danger on the route, but thankfully one is exposed to the potential avalanches for only a minute). After the traverse, we are at the Hour Glass - a V shaped snow slope of 40-45 degrees of 100m providing access through the steepest part of the icefall. Thereafter, weaving through huge crevasses, up ice steps, steep snow and ice crests, the route takes us to Camp 2 at 6300m where the glacier mellows. A simple snow slope (with a few crevasses) brings us to Camp 3 at the North Col (6800m) and truly amazing sunsets.

Manaslu steepens

Snowslope leads to steep glacial ice cliffs. I Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

Camp 3 to Camp 4 (7450m) is a tough day. A steepening snow slope leads to steep glacial ice cliffs (near vertical) at 7100m. Fixed ropes aid progress but difficulties are sustained until just before camp. Summit day follows straight forward snow slopes to almost 8000m where the slope narrows and steepens to 40 odd degrees as it nears the summit (8156m)

Manaslu summit | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

The Descent

Skiing with supplementary oxygen from the top down to 7450m, Guy skied the North East face route (the 'voie normale'), deviating from the line of ascent several times to avoid having to rappel steep icy sections. In all Guy took his skis off once to make a short rappel (5m) over a crevasse at 6200m (in a white out).

supplementary oxygen

Skiing with supplementary oxygen | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

I skied the ascent line to C4 in difficult breakable crust and took a 45 minute break to warm my freezing feet. From C4 I skied the exposed line of ascent on chalky snow of 40-45 degrees to 7250m, where I traversed several hundred metres to the skier's right to avoid the ice cliffs. Some great turns down the huge face followed by a traverse back left brought me past C3 and onto the steady snow slope to C2 at the start of the Icefall. The Icefall proved difficult, with many steep sections with big crevasse falls punishing any mistakes. Inconveniently, convection clouds had built up and I was in frequent whiteout. I had to take my skis off once at 6200m to make a short rappel (5m) over a crevasse, but otherwise managed to negotiate the obstacles on skis. Skiing the Hourglass was a real highlight - steep skiing, on an improbable line and in a 'mad' environment! Weaving through crevasses and over snow bridges in poor visibility, on the way back to base camp was stressful but uneventful (I was a few hundred metres away from the ascent line, which by this stage was bare ice and not skiable).

Manaslu descent

Guy on the descent. | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

Who with?: The Dream Guides team. Friend and client Emma Jack also skied the route apart from 350 vertical metres in the icefall between 6250 and 5900m.

When?:September 28th 2009, Summiting at 9am and reaching basecamp the same day at 4pm.

Clothing: Head to toe Mountain Hardwear; Absolute Zero Suit, Medusa Mitt, Power Stretch Gloves, Power Stretch Tight, Power Stretch Zip T, Monkey Man Zip T and Corvus Dome

More Info: Find out more on Dream Guides' blog or Dream Guides website

Dawn Reporting Back from the Greek Islands: Water Soloing

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

A few days ago we chattered a boat to go water soloing. We headed to the town of Vathi to catch our water taxi. The boat driver spoke no English, so we brought along the guidebook. We could then simply point to the destination that we had in mind. After a short boat ride, we arrived at a small cave with huge hueco pockets and tufas. Pat, Tim, James, Julia and I were all totally psyched. We had the place to ourselves and it seemed too good to be true.

We each took turns climbing, so that the others could heckle from the boat. We would dive in the crystal clear blue water with our shoes on and swim over to the routes. Finding a good hold to pull you out of the water and onto the rock was not a problem. Once on the rock, the movement felt very free, there was no rope or quick draws to deal with. You could climb as the spirit moved you, or until you could not hold on any more.

It was hard at times to convince myself that it was safe to fall. At the top of each route, I found myself on a giant jug, over gripping and fighting my fear of dropping into the water. I would get incredibly nervous and then my fingers would simply fail. I would drop the 15-20 feet into the water screaming loudly all the way until I was submersed in the warm water. After clearing the salt water from my sinuses, I would laugh and smile as I swam back to the boat. The heckling would continue as I climbing into the boat on how the fear of falling had paralyzed me, stopping me from advancing any higher.

Dawn Glanc water solo

When fingers fail there is a 15-20 foot drop into the warm, blue water. | Photo by James Q Martin

Being on the water was beautiful. The sea is crystal clear, allowing us to view the marine life below. It was great to explore and see the island from a new perspective. Now that the day has passed, I find myself longing for that experience again. I now have to be cautious to not let all this island living spoil me for the upcoming ice season. It may be to late.

More from Dawn Glanc on the Island of Kalymnos

Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise - Greek island of Kalymnos
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

The Island of Kalymnos is known for amazing limestone climbing. There are multiple walls to choose from. Long slabs, slightly overhanging walls and deep caves are abundant. What intrigues most climbers are the tufas. A Tufa is like a stalactite; which is formed from the calcite and silica deposits that drip from the rock. The Tufas come in all shapes and sizes. Some are small rounded blobs, what climbers may call chicken heads. Other Tufas resemble flowstone. My favorite type of Tufa is the long icicle looking formations that hang from the rock faces and drip down from the caves. Typically the tufas are awesome positive holds, what we refer to as jugs.

Wall

Some amazing limestone climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

The Tufa climbing requires a climber to think outside the box. The climbing is three-dimensional and requires the climber not only to look up, but also all around. A giant Tufa may be hanging just behind and out of your peripheral view, providing a stem move to relieve the over hanging nature of the climb. My favorite is the Tufa hug, which allows a no hands rest as you sit, straddle or hug the formation. These crazy no hands rests allow the 35-meter overhanging cave routes to be possible. This may be the wildest rock climbing that I have ever encountered. It makes me feel like a kid on a jungle gym, and I love it.

Dawn Glanc

Challenging three-dimensional climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn Glanc climbing in Greek Islands

Dawn's Tufa hug | Photo by James Q Martin

Spectacular Climb of the Iconic Grand Teton

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

In late August, my friends, Mike and Pat O'Donnell, and I arrived in Wyoming to climb the Grand Teton. The Tetons are an icon of the Rockies, rising up abruptly from the Wyoming grassland and piercing the sky with sharp granite teeth. At 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of the steepest and most technical peaks in the lower 48 states and has been on my list for many years. It is the place where many mountaineering legends learned their trade to challenge peaks around the world.

Belay Guides on the wall

Erik approaches belay guides | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Not long after we arrived in Jackson, WY, we encountered two friendly faces. On a ferry across Jenny Lake en route to a practice climb, we ran into longtime friends, Kelly and her husband Craig Perkins. To add to the irony, two weeks earlier, I ran into Kelly and Craig at the base of another rock face while training near San Jacinto peak in California. Kelly, a hero of mine, was the recipient of a heart transplant in 1995 after a severe virus destroyed her own heart. They have climbed all over the world, from the infamous face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California (of course, the Heart Route) to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, championing the cause of organ and tissue donation. In 2001, Kelly stunned her doctors by climbing 19,340-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa.

On this most recent trip, Kelly and Craig set out to complete the Grand Traverse, a classic route that reaches ten summits along the Teton Range. Kelly enlisted seven cardiac nurses from the Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center to join her on a portion of the climb. The project, aptly named "Stand on the Grand for Organ and Tissue Donation, " taught the nurses about the excertional demands of climbing on the heart, and served as an inspiration for heart patients as well. Most importantly, the climb helped to promote Craig and Kelly's campaign for organ donations.The New York Times published an outstanding article on Kelly's climb, NYTimes.com

Pat and Erik Belay

Pat Odonnell and Erik Weihenmayer Belay | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

After the chance meeting in Wyoming, our teams climbed accordion style to a spectacular finish on the Guide's Wall. We all rappelled down just in time to avoid being drenched by the usual afternoon thunderstorms. Then, our two teams parted ways as Mike, Pat and I prepared for our attempt of the Petzl Ridge on the Grand.

Ascending

Erik Weihenmayer and Pat Odonnell ascending. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

When we awoke the following day, five inches of snow had fallen on the Grand Teton, adding to a foot of snow which had fallen the previous week. We decided to push ahead to the Moraine bivy site in Garnet Canyon, the staging area for an assault on the upper flanks. The weather was chilly as we ascended the lower section of the mountain, crossing scree fields of frozen and slippery rock. As we reached the technical climbing on the Petzl Ridge, we encountered ferocious winds. We climbed with down jackets, fleece hats, and gloves, not at-all typical for August. Although the weather improved marginally with the sun beginning to peek from the clouds, the wind was still painfully cold but we pushed ahead on ice-covered rock. Pat remarked sarcastically that it was "great weather for rock shoes!" As we gained altitude, the elements became more challenging as we struggled up frozen rock with minimal gear. Spirits dampened some as a climber above us fell ten feet and landed on his back, narrowly avoiding a fatal accident, we simul-climbed the last 1,500 feet (a technique by which rope teams ascend together while placing rock protection between them). At 2:30 PM, our team of three reached the now snow-covered summit block. Accompanied by Mike and Pat, I became the first blind person to stand atop the Grand Teton. Sixteen hours after beginning, we fell into our sleeping bags exhausted, but satisfied from a marvelous adventure.

Kelly Perkins has recently released her book, The Climb of My Life, Scaling Mountains with a Borrowed Heart. View more information at: www.craigandkelly.com/ordercandkbook.htm

Summit

Summit of Grand Teton! | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

MH Athletes Eyeing 7000m Peaks in Nepal As We Speak..

Oct 20,2009
Climbers News found on MountEverest.net

Himalaya wrap-up: Nepal 7000ers action
Robert Jasper has left his regular playground on the Eiger's north face and showed up in Nepal (MountEverest.net) While Nepal and Tibet's 8000ers are virtually deserted, action continues on smaller peaks such as Baruntse, Pumori and Ama Dablam, less affected by the high winds of the jet stream.

Current expeditions on Nepal's peaks
Simone Moro mentioned earlier that the Anthamatten brothers we going for Jasemba (7350 m), Robert Jasper was aiming for Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cholatse, and Tomaz Humar was also in place - all choosing Nepalese projects due the closure of Tibet imposed by the communist regime.

Besides several teams currently on popular Ama Dablam, some commercial expeditions are launching summit bids on other 6000/7000 meters peaks in Nepal.

A team outfitted by SummitClimb is training on Mera Peak befre attempting Baruntse. Tim Rippel's Peak Freaks team is advancing on Pumori. "Sherpas Jangbu, Tashi, Paulden and Kaji did more carries up to Camp 1 today so it is just about complete," Tim wrote yesterday. "Tomorrow we will climb up again to ABC but this time we will stay the night to allow everyone to adjust to the new altitude, then retreat to BC the next day."

"Mt. Pumori is rarely climbed and in particular the route we have been pioneering since 1998, not the standard route but the South Ridge," Tim explained. "We used to do training on Ama Dablam but it doesn't sit well with us anymore."

FLAKES is Rolling Through San Francisco This Weekend!

EAST BAY, SF and TAHOE folks - Mountain Hardwear Sponsored, Powderwhore is rolling through this weekend on their tour for "Flakes", their newest ski porn flick. All shows have been packed. Check it out!

Friday 10/23 - 7pm - Sports Basement - 1590 Bryant St in San Francisco (6-7pm is happy hour w/ free beer and wine)
Saturday 10/24 - 7pm - Sawtooth Ridge Cafe - Tahoe City

More info: www.powderwhore.com
Tour Dates here

Flakes Crowd