Hardwear Sessions

Correct Warm-up
Everyone knows the importance of warming-up for climbing, not just for avoiding injury but to ensure you get the most from yourself during the session. But a good warm-up doesn't just mean a few stretches and then straight in with the action. Start with a pulse raiser, such as skipping or jogging on the spot. This serves to soften the joints and connective tissues to prepare them for harder exercise. You can do some squeeze-ball exercises or finger-clenches and light shoulder circles while you're doing this, to save time. You should then stretch your fingers and forearms by applying light tension to each joint for between 8 and 15 seconds at a time. Move on to stretch your shoulders, lats and neck. Leg stretches can be done later when you're resting in between your warm-up climbs.

For your warm-up climbs, do stints of one or two minutes of light random movement with two or three minutes rest in between. Stay on vertical walls and large, comfortable, 'tendon-friendly' holds. Each climb should be fractionally harder than the previous but you shouldn't get pumped until at least your fourth. After this you can start to increase the intensity, whether it's for bouldering or routes; but keep building the grade in a pyramid fashion. You should be at the gym for at least an hour before you attempt something at your limit.

Avoid repetitive strain
When bouldering, try to switch between different styles of problem frequently and avoid thrashing way on the same moves. In general, rounded edges, pinches or slopers are the safest holds to train on as the finger tendons aren't being worked to the limit of their flexion or extension full range. A 90-degree 'half-crimp' is the optimum grip, although it is also important to train on crimps in order to obtain versatile finger strength. The key here is to avoid small, sharp crimps and instead go for slopey ones that are at least 'first-joint' in depth. It is often safer to train pocket strength by open-hanging on edges rather than using sharp pocket holds. Be very wary of campus training unless you are strong enough to climb at least V6/7 and even so, you should only do this for short and limited phases. Only train when feeling fresh and well slept. Good nutrition and hydration also play a vital supportive role to avoiding injury.

Come off the gas
If you do feel a finger tweak very slightly you should always seek professional advice immediately, but you may not have to rest altogether. A good option is to back-off and switch from bouldering to routes or lighter endurance training. Or if you wish to boulder, do juggy stuff to work your arms without stressing your fingers. Another tip is to do circuits which use jugs with your injured hand and small holds with your good hand.

Train smart
Above all else it is important to look at the bigger picture. Climbers are notorious for just training and training until they hit a wall. But if you ease off first and push your training forward in 'waves' then you may find that you always stay out of trouble.

Good luck and look out for some of my training posts on www.climbingmasterclass.com or here on the Mountain Hardwear blog in the future.

Sleep, Nutrition, Hydration