The China Crisis (Hardwear Sessions)

By Neil Gresham

My love affair with China finally came to an end at the close of 2006. After three trips in one year I can safely say that I'm climbed out! When we first saw the pictures of Yangshuo in South East China it looked too good to be true - a Karst moonscape with giant arches and towers looming out of the mist above meandering rivers and terraced padi fields. It was a potential sport climbing paradise, and yet it seemed that the late, great Todd Skinner was the only Westerner to have put up hard new routes out there. In November 2005 I jetted out with a small team of Brits including Seb Grieve (of Hard Grit repute) to see if we could add to the list.

A spree of new routing followed in which we managed to put up a host of three-star climbs ranging from 5.9 to 5.13b. The cliffs resembled some of the best that I've climbed on in Europe, except with the added bonus of them being virtually untouched and in such unusual surroundings. The local kids would rush out to greet us and stare with fascination as we attempted to scale the cliffs that they had lived and played below for years. The highlight for me was a 5.13c which involved 30metres of upside down climbing through the underside of the arch at Moonhill. An all-out tufa-battle somehow landed me at the top on the last day of the trip. It was the best new sport climb I'd ever done, but with so much more to do, I knew I'd be back.

Sure enough I landed in Guilin in March 06, but with the wet season in force, I quickly realised that I had been a little over-enthusiastic. I bolted a line on a cliff called White Mountain, which would involve yet more gymnastic space-walking on stalactites, but it didn't dry out in time. Surely another trip can't be on the agenda? I had made so many friends in the local town that I didn't feel like I needed an excuse.

I gathered another team together in October and we set out for the Promised Land a final time. My White Mountain route turned out to be another stunner but this time my enemy was the humidity. At one point I had to grip a huge stalactite between my knees and take both hands off in order to empty the entire contents of my chalk bag over myself in an attempt to stem the flow of sweat! But I made it to the top and the Axeman, another dream 5.13b, was born. The temperatures dropped and I managed to add an even harder line, Single Life (5.13c) to yet another stunning new crag called Single Hill. But for the last few days, we took to showing some of the local climbers how to place bolts and create new routes. We felt conscious that our pickings in China had been fruitful, and were keen to make sure that we gave something back.

What more can I say other than go! If you climb anything from 5.8 to 5.13c there will be enough in Yangshuo to keep you happy for at least a fortnight. And if you're into new routing then you're really in for a treat - free bolts and a drill can usually be obtained from China Climb or Karst Café in the village. And regarding lines—take your pick! Autumn is the best time for weather, and Yangshuo town has everything you need including internet and banking facilities and superbly diverse cuisine. Almost everyone speaks English, you won't need a car, and hotels are super cheap. Go climb, Chinese style, and enjoy.