By Neil Gresham
Lundy island lies off the north coast of Devon and is regarded as one of the last truly unspoilt areas of the English countryside. In September 2006 I joined a group of top British climbers on a week's expedition to explore the island. Most of the team favoured traditional methods, using ropes and safety equipment to pioneer new routes, but I was keen to experiment with a new climbing style known as 'Deep Water Soloing' where ropes are discarded and the climber simply goes solo above the ocean.
The climb I wanted to attempt goes up the side of a spectacular arch and is called 'the Flying Dutchman' 5.12d. My pal, Tim Emmett who had tried to climb it with ropes last year had commented that at high tide, it would be possible as a Deep Water Solo. As soon as I heard this idea I was hooked. I had waited patiently for calm weather and high tides, and the perfect day came, three days before the end of the trip. The sea was a little choppy but I knew this was my chance. With my heart racing, I threw out my abseil rope. The cliff was so steep that I had to swing in and out to prevent me from becoming stranded in space above the sea. When I was low enough, I swung in, latched the rock, took a deep breath and disconnected myself from the abseil rope. This was it now, the only option was to climb out or receive a ducking.
Continue reading "The Flying Dutchman" »

See these photos on Flickr.com
By Fredrick Wilkinson
Spindrift is a funny thing — it can be soft and cuddly, but at the same time extremely persistent.
Imagine getting slowly strangled to death by a very big and very wet stuffed teddy bear. That's what it's like being caught in spindrift at an alpine bivy.
It was 2 PM on the afternoon of May 3rd. I was sharing my EV2 with two six foot giants: Ben Gilmore and Peter Doucette. We were bivied at the base of the Fin Wall, above the Yentna Glacier south of Mount Foraker. The wall had never before been attempted, a fact that probably had something to do with the six miles of convoluted crevasse fields, seracs and icefall that lay below. We had just spent seven hours running the gauntlet through this maze to reach this spot, a narrow ledge dug out of a 50 degree snow slope.
Continue reading "The Yentna Report" »

By Alex Baires with help from Adrian Mateo, Suzanne Mentz, Mark O'Keefe and other "Nutz"
After months of anticipation, the team stood strong at the start in Calistoga. The camaraderie was so great that all 12 of us decided to run the first of 36 legs together. It started off great but only three miles in, everyone started complaining and with less than a mile to go, everyone gave up so I had to finish the next two miles of leg one by myself and go on to run the second leg. Somehow, I managed to convince enough people to run the next four legs but at the first van exchange, everyone declared that they were finished and would not run any further. Then I woke up. It was the Thursday before race day for The Relay. Our start time was just over two days away — Saturday at 11 a.m.
Continue reading "199 miles, 29 hours 17 minutes, and 12 Nutz'n Boltz on Cinco de Mayo Weekend" »