Hardwear Sessions

View More Pictures from Ueli's climb on Flickr.

By Ueli Steck

Friday was not that good. We went to try a route on Howse Peak. The weather was just not good. And there were too many avalanches in the face. So Saturday we went back to the project at Mt. Paterson. This time it was time to freeclimb the new route we already opened last week.

We were not sure what we wanted to do. The second pitch is the hardest one. So if we fall on the second pitch, should we keep going and climb all the upper pitches or should we try untill we freeclimbed the second pitch? We hiked up very early so we will have enough time. At 8.30 am we were already at the start of the Route. The first pitch was fast done. Easy, only M5. Then i started for the second Pitch. The climbing is not that hard but very unstable. The hooks are small and slippery... The first part of the pitch goes over a roof. After the roof you are awake. and then it starts the real unstable climbing. It took a long time on that pitch to find the hooks, but I found them. After 40 minutes the Crux pitch was done.

Very motivated, we kept going. There are several pitches where you shouldn't fall.

After pitch 3 there is a Wi5+ X pitch.This Pitch is 59 meters long and there is no real protection. Just keep climbing and trust your icetools.... We topped out around at 5.00 pm and we finished a perfect day at 19.30 in Lake Louise having a coffee. Another great Day in the Canadian Rockies.

The Route is called Rocket Baby Grad VI M8+/Wi5+ X

Gear: you need 10 to 12 Icescrews. (Short ones!!) 10 Quickdraws. And a strong Head.