Hardwear Sessions

View More Photos from the Sea of Vapors on Flickr.

By Ueli Steck

Yesterday we had again an early start to Howse Peak. 3.30 am... When we arrived at the parking lot, there was already 20 cm of fresh snow. So it snowed quite hard the day before. We knew from the last time where was even no snow on the parking lot that in this condition there is no way to go to the face. So we slept for another 2 hours in the car, just to get daylight and see the face from the Car.

And we began thinking about big avalanches up there. So no climbing on Howse Peak... We drove back to Canmore, quite depressed, the weather is just good. It was the first day with blue sky that we have here in Canada...

We went back to Will's house and he was quite impressed that we were not climbing...in good weather... We had a cup of coffee and talked and Will just told us we should go at least climbing something else today. But what... It was 11.30 and what could be in condition? Will motivated us to go up and do Sea of Vapors at Mount Rundle. That s quit a serious climb, rated Wi 7 and there is a 2.5 hours hike to the 165 meter climb. Its quit late to go, but no chance Will told us to go up. And we went...

We drove back to Banff and hiked the 2.5 hike in 45 minutes. We need to hurry up... The climb was just very very delicate. In good condition it's hard, but we had thin conditions, its still early in the Season and last week there was no ice... The short icescrews were mostly too long. And the Protection was just not nice. But we climbed the route and were back still by Daylight in Canmore. So the Day ended good with great climbing in the afternoon and Beer and Pizza for Dinner.

And now we are still hoping for Howse Peak...