Hardwear Sessions

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By Ueli Steck

November 4, 2007:

The weather here is still very unstable. But we got some really good climbing in. But not Howse, the time is running fast, looks like Howse will not work... Anyway, Friday we went up to Mount Rundle. We wanted to climb Ten Years After. But the Swiss team was up too late, there was already a party there. So we we hiked over to Sacre Bleu. A Nice Wi 5+.

But it was definitely a good climb. It's a nice 100 meter climb. After the climb we went back to Ten Years After. The guys from the Morning had already left, they didn't climb it because it was too thin. So it was on us to try. And it was just good interesting climbing. Some mixed and thin Ice. When we finished the climb there was still some daylight left. I was pretty motivated to climb the Route again but without a rope. I have been having a pretty hard time since my accident on Annapurna, and I have some problems to get focused again. So know it was time to climb again and get my strong head back. It took me half an hour to get focused before I started the climb again without the rope. and it worked out really nice. I enjoyed the whole climb, I was really sure about it. and thats exactly what I missed the whole summer. Now I get back into climbing.

A good solo ascent for me personally. I am quite happy!

So yesterday we started again on Mount Rundle, arms and legs feeling a little tired. We climbed the Tree Pitches Route of Laser Blade,a a good WI 4+ Route with thin ice and no good protection. After the route there is a second rock band thats never been climbed. On Friday Steven Holeczi did e new route up on this rockband, a full Ice route. We looked on the Rock band and found a really nice icicle to the left of the face. So that was the goal for today. First Pitch it's 60 meters, Wi5+. Then the second pitch took us a long time to get the gear in. But there are no bolts on this route. So Simon did all the gear. After it was my turn to free the pitch. So I climbed up on all this scary gear. I climbed all the way up to the crux and just before you can clip the good Angel-Pin I broke the hook.

So i went for a ride.

And i remember i realize that the knifeblade was ripping off. The fall was stopped by a sling thats around a small icicle that was maybe 10 cm diameter...

But it held. After this, I finished the Pitch and Simon lowered me down.

On the way down i tried to fix the protection. After Simon climbed the Pitch, and after him was my go again. So i took some time and we both freed the pitch. Again a good Route in the Rockies. We called it Not Flying is not Trying M8/Wi 6 It's really good climbing on natural protection and quite technical! I guess there are not many similar routes in the Rockies like this.