Alpine History 101: Urs Kallen (Hardwear Sessions)

By Will Meinen

Last year while gearing up in the Yamnuska parking lot with Brandon Pullan, I noticed two older gentlemen who had just arrived in a sweet vintage Mercedes Benz sports coupe. As they got out and removed their alpine-coiled the ropes and circa '70 backpacks, I knew these gents had been around the block. Brandon was quick to inform me that it was none other then Andy Generoux and Urs Kallen. These were true legends in the Canadian Rockies, both with a huge list of significant first ascents.

Half a year later Brandon and I attended an Urs Kallen slideshow hosted by the Calgary chapter of the Alpine Club of Canada. Urs presented "The Bold and Cold 25"; his selection of his 'approved' alpine routes of the Canadian Rockies. Many of the routes were on my tick list. I talked with him after the show and soon he invited Brandon and me over for beers.

Several weeks ago Brandon and I headed over to his house with a case of cold brews. When Urs opened the door, he told us we could save our beers because he had a fridge full of fine imports already waiting for us. As soon as we stepped inside we each received two beers and headed into his 'climbers-only lounge'. As we headed up the stairs, he informed us he had not let many people in this section of his house. As the door opened it revealed a small room in his attic filled with archaic climbing gear, black and white photos of his climbing adventures and book shelves filled with enough climbing publications to fill a small library. Three chairs and a small round table sat at the end of the room. We all sat down and Urs Kallen told it like it was, over the course of our beers.

"When I started climbing it was full of adventure and excitement. It was all unknown, and the risk was real. Now a days it seems that most of the adventure has been removed, and the sport of climbing has become very sterilized," Urs told us. "A kid in the skateboard park, dropping into the half-pipe is taking a greater risk than most self-professed climbers do." When I asked how he defined climbing he said, "If it's not more than 5 pitches it's not even climbing, and if death isn't a good possibility it's probably not much of an adventure."

Urs Kallen had done his research on Brandon and me and he was very excited that there was a young generation still excited about alpine climbing. He proceeded to pull out folders filled with topos, hand written notes, and aerial photos and helped us figure out all the logistics required to pull off some pretty badass routes from the 'Bold and Cold 25'. Urs went downstairs and brought up the rest of the beer, and we continued to bask in his wisdom.

I noticed a photo on top of a book off to the side. I didn't recognize the mountain so I asked him what it was. "See the prow? That's the route I want to climb with you boys this summer. I noticed it a couple years ago, and I couldn't believe it hadn't been climbed yet. Would you be interested in a little climbing adventure with me?" We immediately agreed, and a date was set.

When the beers were all gone and the night grew late, Urs shook our hand and sent us on our way. As I we stepped outside we realized we still had a full case of beer chilled from the nip of wintery air.

"Should we finish these beers up hit the bar to celebrate the new F.A. with Urs?!"

We both laughed and headed downtown with our beers hoping to get a couple rounds before last call.