Mixed Meister (Hardwear Sessions)

View Will's photographs from Mixed Meister

By William Meinen

Cutting your Teeth on Alpine Rock: Mixed Meister 5.10d 2400'

With the weather slowly shaping up for alpine rock routes in the Rockies, I was looking for something to kick off the season.

Although some find his style of routes setting controversial, Andy Genereux has established more high quality multi-pitch routes in the Bow Valley than anyone else I can think of. Mostly done ground up while bolting on lead (using natural gear whenever possible), Andy Genereux has a natural eye for classic lines.

In 2007, along with a handful of other great first ascents, Genereux (with help from Urs Kallen) pushed a very direct line up the tallest aspect of Goat Slabs and called the creation Mixed Meister. I have climbed several of Andy's routes and had a great time on all of them. I read a review posted by someone who attempted Mixed Meister and he accused Andy of not actually climbing the route, but suggested he rapped down and placed some bolts on the last several pitches and called it a route. He then advised fellow climbers not to climb the route due to loose rock, difficult route finding, and run-out nature. If you ask me it sounded like the perfect way to train for the alpine!

Brandon Pullan and I set off with the bare necessities; a small rack, 1 liter water, and light-weight shells just in case the weather turned bad. As soon as we left Canmore we didn't stop moving until our return 12 hours later. The climb was awesome, and definitely an adventure and half. It was very alpine-like except with the treat of bolted belays and bolt protected cruxes. I can't think of a better way to get in shape for the big mountains.

As I sat on the couch back at the house that night Brandon and I were tired and silent. Just as I was getting ready for bed, half a dozen friends rolled in the door with enough beer to last until the morning hours. Once the cold delicious malted beverage hit my lips I was ready for round two. Let the good times roll!