By Freddie Wilkinson
One month ago, I wrote "Heros in Fine-print", which highlighted the actions of two Sherpas who were involved in rescuing several survivors of the K2 tragedy. In subsequent interviews with them, some new information has come to light that should be reported as part of the ongoing effort to find out precisely what happened. The information concerns a radio transmission that occurred on August 2nd between Pemba Gyalje and the rescue party of Pasang Bhote and Tsering Bhote. It occurred sometime after 3 PM, just after Pemba had found Marco Confortola lying passed out on a pile of fresh avalanche debris at roughly 8,000 meters.
As Pemba was reviving Confortola with bottled oxygen, he received a radio call from Pasang Bhote and Tsering Bhote, who reported that they had rendezvoused with Jumic Bhote and two of the Koreans (most likely Hwang Dong-Jin and Park Kyeong-Hyo) at the top of the Bottleneck. They said that aside from some frostbite, Jumic Bhote was basically alright, and that everyone was coming down. Pemba told them to hurry down, as the serac was very unstable.
The rescue team went on to say that they had witnessed a climber in a red suit with patches fall from the middle of the Traverse, the section of the route which connects the top of the Bottleneck couloir to the summit slopes. It was unclear whether the man fell, or was swept off by an avalanche, but he evidently was 15 - 30 minutes behind Jumic Bhote and the two Koreans. Moments after this radio communication, Pemba heard a large avalanche and witnessed the bodies of two Sherpas and two Koreans tumble by him.
I learned months ago in email correspondence with Pemba that the rescue team had succeeded in reaching Jumic Bhote and two of the Koreans. But it wasn't until I met with him in Kathmandu and we had the chance to speak extensively about K2 that I heard about the man in the red suit behind Jumic and the Koreans. Though both Gerard McDonnell and Pakistani guide Karim Meherban both wore red suits, only McDonnell's had patches on the front, matching the description given in the radio transmission. Accordingly, Pemba believes that this man was his friend and teammate McDonnell.