
By Mike Libecki
"With full rage and fury the tent exploded and ripped in two, tent poles flailed like slashing swords, our tent had transformed into a savage monster. We dove out of the tent-beast and watched it thrashing and swinging its broken aluminum poles and nylon limbs."
I have a love-hate relationship with gravity, mostly love, of course. Gravity is my friend as well as my foe, mostly friend, of course. Without both the good and bad, negative and positive, a beautiful, healthy relationship is just not possible. Without the possibility of being blown off a huge rock-wall by hurricane-force winds and falling thousands of feet playing off the goal of standing on a distant virgin summit (and celebrating with a nude dance wearing the current year's Chinese Zodiac mask), the challenges of big-wall climbing would not lure me like a dog in heat.
This yin-yang relationship has gone on for fifteen years now, this pairing of man and stone, this obsession for big-wall first ascents, this romance enriched by gravity. On five different expeditions to East Greenland in the last 10 years, my relationship with gravity has grown like a high school crush that turns into marriage.
Greenland reminds me of a fantasyland right out of my five-year-old daughter's princess-and-dragon books. There are the wonders of whales, polar bears, foxes, and seals, endless wild flowers every color of the rainbow (many edible), traditional hunting and fishing with the local Inuit people, and magical boat rides in harsh, ice-laden seas, with the glorious bonus of 24-hour sunlight reflecting off glassy, bluish-white icebergs of every shape and size.
When not on a solo expedition, I invite only my best friends and partners. We share in the mystery, live in the "now," and create memories together that will never leave the warehouses of our minds. My closest and most trustworthy climbing partner is Josh Helling. From early training days on El Cap through suffering ascents on Baffin Island and in Antarctica, our partnership has grown into a bond as solid as the granite we hang from. We have an unspoken, shared focus on safety, respect, experience, and the conviction that success means coming home alive; standing on the summit is icing on the cake. A climbing partnership is one of the most important relationships in life. It is handing over your heart and breath, your fate and future, the chance you will get see your family and friends again.
Utah-New York-Iceland-Tasiilaq, East Greenland. Before we left I arranged for a 22-foot arctic fishing boat--wrapped with an extra 30 millimeters of fiberglass for unexpected sea-ice collisions--to take us 230 miles through a psychedelic sea maze of giant electric blue icebergs and white geometric plates of frozen ocean. As we sailed south down the coast of the ice-capped continent, icebergs bobbing slowly up and down in the rolling sea swells punctuated the aqua-blue-bleeding-into-copper horizon. Time, water, and sun carve these ice masterpieces into beautiful abstract sculptures, some the size of cars, other as big as cruise ships. At times we disappeared into thick fog and, surrounded by tingling mist, we would find ourselves looking up at giant, striped arching ribbons across the sky, mixed with silver, gray, and white-metallic that formed ghost-rainbows.

Ghost rainbow and sea ice