By Dawn Glanc
In December I returned to Ouray Colorado for another season of ice and mixed climbing. This would be my fourth winter in Ouray and my third year competing in the ice festival. This year I was more committed than ever to try to win the Ouray Ice Festival. I began to train for this goal on December 2. My training routine was very intense this year. I went out mixed climbing all day, 6 days a week. I hit the gym immediately after climbing 4 nights a week. I did yoga every morning for at least 30 minutes and did what I could to have a good healthy high protein diet. I adopted new training partners this year as well, which I believe was the true key to success. Andres Marin, Paul "Pablo" Stein and Geoff Unger held my string day after day. These guys gave me the encouragement and "shit talking" that I needed to help me excel. It was a grueling regimen that I strictly followed for six weeks.
After a rigorous and intense six weeks, the festival arrived. The town of Ouray awoke from its winter slumber as 1000 ice climbers flooded the town. The town began to bustle. Vendor booths cluttered the ice park and eager climbers were everywhere. The energy was high and people were psyched.
The day we had been preparing for arrived. Saturday was a beautiful blue bird day, the kind that we have grown to love here in Ouray. It was warm and sunny, and I could not contain my excitement. Andres and I headed to the park to get warmed up. We were both really stoked for our turn to compete. It seemed like an eternity passed as we waited our turn to climb the route.

Dawn Glance climbing at the Ouray Ice Fest
Finally my number was called.
I rappelled into the gorge as the butterflies took flight in my stomach. This was the moment I had been preparing for and I had never felt more ready to send. The route started with about 40 feet of WI4. I methodically made my way up the ice, using this as my time to relax and get the jitters out. As I climbed out of the gorge, I could hear my music that I had put together. I heard a few lines of "bringing sexy back", and my energy began to surge. I was rocking to the tunes and feeling the sending mojo. The crowd was electric and roaring with cheers. I made my way up the business of the route, finding the holds for my picks and working my feet. I got a few draws out, and the route got real steep. I made my last clip, and realized that my tool was slipping from my shoulder. I recovered it, and tried to work my feet so that I could advance upward. My feet then blew and I was out. My high point was reached and I was hanging from the rope.
As soon as I lowered down to the river I started to celebrate. I was so happy and giddy it was insane. I had no idea how I had finished, but I had felt amazing while climbing. I felt like I was flowing and climbing strong. Bill Whit, ice park president and comp judge, met me at the base of the route and he believed that I had at least earned a place on the podium. Full of excitement, I then began to climb the exit route to the top of the gorge. I was met by friends who hugged me, and gave cheers of congratulations. The celebration and partying was about to begin.
As I walked home from the park, I called my sister to tell her of the news. While on the phone I received a voicemail. It was Bill Whit, personally calling to congratulate me on my first place finish. Once I heard the message, I ran around my house like the girl from little miss sunshine. I screamed and danced with excitement. I could not believe the reality of the situation. I won, but I could not believe it.
Saturday night the Petzl dance party went off the hook. It was the party that I had asked for. I wanted to have a crazy dance party to celebrate and I got it. My training partners and I danced and partied down with the other competitors and the rest of the ice festival attendees. It was a great way to top the amazing day.
Now that the dust has settled, the whole experience seems so surreal. It is as if the festival was a dream. As I walk down the quite sidewalks of Ouray, the dreamy feeling is validated. Town is still town, my dog is still my dog, and I still had to go to work. The only thing I tangibly have to prove that the event happened and that I won first place, is my glass trophy. It is now time to return to life as usual here in the quite town of Ouray, however I will continue to smile and celebrate this dream come true.

Comments (1)
That is my sister Dawn, She totally Rocks! I am so stoked for her you don't even know! For those of you who know her, you know her as the type of person that says 'hey today is a new day, it's your's now go and make the most of it; follow your dreams, Don't fricking waste a moment'! For those of you who don't know her, you can feel the vibe anyways its in the air, breathe it in, feel it on your skin, all of you, Let it empower you! We can all send higher! Keep the vibe alive y'all!!
Way to go Dawn!! I love you!!
Posted by Kristy Glanc | January 16, 2009 6:07 PM
Posted on January 16, 2009 18:07