Brief and Incoherent Glimpses of Gonzo-style Alpinism (Hardwear Sessions)

By Freddie Wilkinson. View his profile on MountainHardwear.com.

When it comes to documenting alpine climbs, I am no Ken Burns. Most of the time I'm too tired, too scared, too uncomfortable, or I'm just having way too much fun to worry about recording it for posterity. Nevertheless, thanks to modern technology, even the most basic point- and-shoots can take short video clips. Sometimes, its just too easy not to turn on my Canon SD 800 and press play. So, here are a few clips from the archives -- nothing smooth or polished, just raw reality, as funny or stupid, inspiring or embarrassing as it seems. Enjoy!

El Sacraficio Del Raton, Cerro Poincinot, Patagonia:
This shot was taken during the first ascent of a route I climbed on the South Face of Poincinot with Dave Sharratt in January 2007. The route took two days; we bivied with no stove or sleeping bag on a small ledge two-thirds up the face. Note the changes in my demeanor: in the first video I am psyched; in the second video, taken right before we were benighted, I'm a bit apprehensive; and in the third video, taken on the descent after we summited, I'm just plain worked. You may notice that through it all, "the Monster" keeps his cool.

Freddie Wilkinson and Dave Sharratt psyched to be climbing
the South Face of Poincino.

Freddie Wilkinson feeling apprehensive.

Shot taken on the descent after Freddie Wilkinson and Dave Sharratt summited.

The West Ridge of Peak 5960, Miyar Valley, India:
There's something really special about those last moments just before you arrive on top of a mountain. After months of planning, weeks of travel and acclimatization, and long days of effort... it all comes down to this? This clip captures the precise moment Dave Sharratt and I summited Peak 5960 in Himachal Pradesh, India. The route went at chossy 5.9, but the views were worth it.

Beautiful views on the Peak of 5960 in Himachal Pradesh, India.

The Moonflower Buttress, Mount Hunter, Alaska:
This past May, Ben Gilmore, Max Turgeon, and I spent three weeks climbing in the Alaska Range. We managed the first ascent of an 11,000 foot peak, but I think we were all even more psyched to be the 9th party to make a complete ascent of the famous Moonflower Buttress on Hunter. The first day we climbed through raging snow squalls and arrived on the second ice band late in the afternoon. We were all soaked from spindrift and I doubt we would have been able to continue on to the summit the next morning if Ben hadn't excavated a precarious snow cave by hollowing out a small cornice. In this video, Max and I are snuggling up for a long bivy spooning inside a specialty two man sleeping bag. "Misery acquaints a man with strange bedfellows," as they say.

" Misery acquaints a man with strange bedfellows." Clip shot by Ben Gilmore.

Freddie comments on what he wore during the expedition:
" For the alpine nar-nar, my action suit consists of a Transition Jacket, Quark Jacket for storm protection, and Tanglewood Pants. And there is really nothing like a Hooded Compressor Jacket to make you feel comfy and warm during a long bivy...."