Climbing a Classic (Hardwear Sessions)

By Dawn Glanc, Check out her profile on MountainHardwear.com

Years ago, a friend gave me a guidebook for Colorado ice climbing. I accepted the gift, but viewed it at the time as a coffee table book. This friend marked the page for Bridal Veil Falls and said, "This is the one you should climb". I smiled and agreed with an unconvincing "sure." The book sat for years on the shelf. Every now and again during the Black Hills ice season, I would look at that guide book and day dream about bigger days and gnarly climbs like Bridal Veil Falls.

Dawn climbing Bridal Veil, one of the most difficult ice climbs in Colorado.
Photo Courtesy of Dawn Glanc

Four years ago I picked up that Colorado ice climbing guidebook when I moved to Ouray. That winter I had a mission. That mission was to climb every piece of ice that I could get my tools on. I would not repeat routes until I had climbed every thing else that was in. My test piece for that winter was Bridal Veil Falls. I had the confidence to step up to just about anything that season. But Bridal Veil was still the one that I had to really get psyched for.

Early January of that year I found the ovaries to climb Bridal Veil Falls. That some day, the day I had been dreaming of had arrived. I hiked into the climb with incredible anxiety. I was excited and intimidated all at the same time. The approach seemed too quick. Next thing I knew we were at the base of the very route that I had only read about. It looked gnarly. We racked up, flaked the ropes and I was heading out on the sharp end. The butterflies in my stomach quickly fled. Feelings of calm replaced the uneasiness I had been feeling. I guess one could describe it as the zone. What ever it was, I was climbing the route and I was amazed with its beauty. At the top, my smile was enormous. I had achieved a long time goal and it felt great.

Photo Courtesy of Dawn Glanc

A few days ago I climbed Bridal Veil Falls again. It had been more than 3 years since that first date. This time the day had a different feeling. I still had excitement and anxiety, but not nearly as much as the first time. The intimidation factor was still high, but it felt more manageable this time. We racked up, flaked the ropes, and again I headed out on the sharp end.

The climb was beautiful. Bridal Veil has formed with a path of less resistance this year. It is a fun and challenging route. It offers everything a classic climb should. It is steep, sustained and a bit awkward at times. I was fully enjoying every minute of that day and every bit of the climbing. When I reached the top and crested into the bluebird day, I had the most enormous smile on my face. But this time I was able to relax and enjoy the day, so the attitude of my smile was different. This time I walked away from the day with an incredible feeling of achievement and greater respect for the route.

* A special thanks to the landowners for allowing access to Bridal Veil Falls this year.

Dawn comments on what she wore during the expedition:
" I wore a Fall 09 Softshell with a Compressor Jacket under it. I stayed warm and relatively dry, even when the climb was pouring with water. My typical outerwear includes Synchro Pants and Tangelwood Softshells. I also climbed in theTorsion Gloves."