Expedition Makalu (8463m) - west pillar solo (Hardwear Sessions)

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Makalu Map

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Once again Ueli Steck is aiming to fulfill a great goal. This time it is not a first ascent which stands in the focus. His plan is to summit Makalu on the west pillar solo and without any kind of aid at the mountain. The west pillar really is a great route on a mountain over 8000 meters. To ascend solo such a route needs a lot of courage and experience. And this is what it is about in alpinism. The courage to try something, to deal with a possible success or a possible failure and to face up with this task.

Up to today only a few alpinists succeed to climb solo a difficult and demanding route on a peak over 8000 meters. Pierre Béghin, Tomasz Humar or Reinhold Messner are alpinists, who were able to fulfill this dream. The exposure on this height is enormous and the psychological pressure immense. From 6000 meters upwards you get yourself in an area, where human being is completely left alone. In an age of satellite telephone you can be saved by helicopter from the south or north pole. As from 6000 meters a rescue by helicopter is not possible anymore. A rescue by alpinists is - on an exposed ridge such as the west pillar of Makalu - practically impossible.

Ueli Steck wants to try something, what no one before him has achieved so far. The preparations for the Makalu Expedition were successful. Ueli Steck doesn't want to rely on others. He must and wants to go new ways. He wants to push the limits, in order to reach the summit.

Acclimatization
Ueli Steck just returned from the Gasherbrum II expedition at the beginning of August. He travels to Nepal pretty well acclimatized. From Kathmandu a plane will bring them to Tumlingtar. After they will trek about 10 days before reaching base camp of Makalu.

The weather conditions will decide when a summit push will be reasonable. In this time of the year the air is more dry but colder. The winds are an important element and not to underestimate.

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Read about the History of Makalu

The Makalu is with an altitude of 8463 meter the fifth highest mountain in the world. He lies easterly of Mount Everest at the border between Nepal and China. A French expedition of 9 alpinists first ascended Makalu in May 1955 under the leadership of Jean Franco. It was the first time that all expedition members summit a mountain over 8000 meters. Mostly as first ascenders only the alpinists Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy are nominated, who reached the highest point on May 15. One day after Jean Franco, Guido Magnone and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu reached the summit. And on May 17 the rest of the team with Jean Bouvier, Serge Coupé, Pierre Leroux and André Vialatte stood on the summit. The route headed over the Makalu La and is known today as "French route."

In 1971 it was once more a French expedition who ascended the west pillar. A new route, which features enormous difficulties. Yannick Seigneur and Bernard Mellet realized this terrific and difficult line. Rating: VI / A2 and this at 7500 meters over sea: A milestone in alpinism.

The Makalu was first summit - without additional oxygen - by Marjan Manfreda in 1975.

The west face of Makalu is from the point of view of mountaineering one of the biggest problems in Himalaja. The face has up to today never been ascended directly to the summit. The altitude, the coldness and the strong winds make this project to a big challenge. A route, such as the direct line to the summit of Annapurna South face and this project, are the greatest challenges in today's mountaineering.