Hardwear Sessions

Ardica is the leading developer of miniaturized portable power systems. Their latest introduction, the Moshi Power System, generates 40W of power from a lightweight, flexible and portable planar array of lithium ion batteries. This system can power and charge a wide variety of electronic devices while simultaneously delivering comforts like heat and sound to garments, bags and more. Find out more about the contest here.

Mountain Hardwear uses this device to heat your core and charge your electronics. This technology is found in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket.

Photo Courtesy of Scott Harrison

Carlos Toste, a member of the Mountain Hardwear Warranty family, is in Tibet for two weeks to help rebuild an elementary school. As you can see, the kids can't wait for Carlos! They are all very excited about their new school.

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

September 1, 2009 - Arrival at base camp (5250 meters above sea level)

A humid and wet trek to basecamp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Finally we reached the foot of the mountain. The last 10 days of trekking was not always very comfortable. The monsoon is still fully in his element. It was a humid and wet trek. Luckily the bloodsucker didn't bother us too much. I arrived at base camp with five of them.

Today we installed us here at 5250 meters. Part of our equipment is still at 4745 meters. The last stage of the trek takes you over the Barun glacier. For this ascent we have seven Sherpas who help us to carry up our material. These are about ten loads of 25 kg which have to be carried to the base camp.

For Robert, Andy and me the phase of acclimatisation starts. Röbi and Andy will try the route which was first ascended in 1955. My plan is still to go for the west pillar solo, alpine style. Much will depend on the conditions and the weather. We will not be the first ones to fail but our motivation is big. We are looking forward to the time at the mountain. First of all we will install ourselves properly at BC and enjoy a couple of days of rest. Kaji, our cook will spoil us with his culinary skills.

Robert Bösch and Andy Wälchli relaxing at base camp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

At the moment the weather forecast is quite unstable. This was predictable. We intentionally left early. The weather should get more stable by mid September. Until then we will have to accept the humidity of the monsoon. In the meantime our bodies will have time to adjust to the altitude. As soon as the weather gets steady, we will be ready to move higher. From mid October the winds at 8000 meters are mostly too strong to have a chance to summit. We hope to summit Makalu between mid September and mid October.

We hope for the best!

In May 1999, Mountain Hardwear built a custom expedition tent for Babu Chiri Sherpa in just days. That same month, Babu arrived in the Himalayas, summited Everest and proceeded to camp on top for 21 hours. This impressive act has never been repeated.

Today, our friends at Explorersweb.com generously delivered us the rare and historic video footage of Babu's feat. Hold your breath and enjoy!

On September 4, I reached 6700 meters on the West Pillar. Before I spent a comfortable night underneath the Jumeaux I at 6000 meters. My motivation was immense. I felt very good and I am convinced that I benefited a lot from my Gasherbrum II expedition. I had the chance to study the pillar from very close. The route looks very difficult: steep rock and ice climbing on over 7500 meters. My joy was nearly boundless. The weather was good and the snow conditions sensational. After Meteotest transmitted me bad weather for Saturday, I descended the same day - Friday - to BC. It was a good trip to get well acclimatised and to study the route.

Today is Sunday. The whole night it has snowed. We are all sitting at BC. The weather forecast looks bad and it looks like we are damned to wait. This means: wait and see, read books and try not to loose the motivation. Through the fog we can hear very clearly "wumm" sounds. A sign of bigger avalanches.

But sometimes the conditions will improve. Until then we have to wait.

See you soon!

The Beta - Six Feet Under
By Andrew Kornylak

The Beta - Six Feet Under from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

FiveTen climber Brion Voges of Chattanooga, Tennessee drops the beta on "Six Feet Under" (V5), and "Instinct" (V7), two classic lines at The Stone Fort, near Chattanooga - the last leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series.

Shot entirely in HD, this hour long showcase of last winters adventures travels from Patagonia, The Wasatch Mountains, Haines, Valdez, The San Juans and Aspen. For tour dates, to pre-order DVD's, and to view the trailer visit www.powderwhore.com

For more information contact Noah@powderwhore.com (801-647-9071)

Jon Bowermaster reporting in, from Moorea, on the scene of first ever surfing IMAX 3D filming currently being shot in Tahiti and French Polynesia.

Ultimate Wave Tahiti Inside Look - Kelly Slater

Wait until you see these IMAX 3D images of Kelly Slater and Raimana van Bastolaer surfing out of the tube at Tahiti's Teahupo'o - arguably the wildest, most dangerous, most perfect surf wave on the planet - projected eighty feet high on a giant screen near you (coming, February 2010). In Moorea and Tahiti I had a peek at some of the rushes dumped onto a fifteen-inch computer screen and literally had to step back from even that small screen, overwhelmed by the real feel of Raimana - Tahiti's godfather of surfing - jumping to his feet on the board, peeking back over this shoulder to judge the whereabouts of a monstrous roller heading towards him, the splash of the clear-blue South Pacific washing over the lens and the grim/exultant look on his face as he realizes he's successfully up and not going to get washing-machined by a fifty-foot wave. Look for my story about the 'making of' surfing's first IMAX 3D film - Ultimate Wave Tahiti - in December's National Geographic Adventure and I imagine for a trailer soon at the Stephen Low Company's website.

"That may be the greatest shot I've ever made!" says an exuberant Stephen Low as he clambers onto the Zodiac, followed closely by his 145-pound IMAX 3D camera in its gold-tinted waterproof housing. We are bobbing in mild seas just off Moorea, the island I nominate as the most beautiful in French Polynesia, spending a long, glorious day whale watching.

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Amelia McAndrew walking into the Mountain Hardwear Office located at Ford Point in Richmond, CA | Photo by Roland Dare

Monday, September 14 - Makalu base camp

Ueli Steck.mp3

The voice record is in Swiss German. The following is the translation:

I left BC to Makalu west pillar on Saturday morning at 00.30 am. I ascended directly to my small tent at 6700 meters. Basically it is more of an overstepping than an ascent. The way to the actual west pillar passes over the two Jumeaux. Two summits: one of 6220 meters, then down and over the second one of 6462 meters before coming to the Makalu. A long way with a 20 kg heavy backpack. For the trek to my tent I needed a solid 9 hours. Tired from the long ascent, I arrived a little late for mid-morning snack to my camp. The tent still looked out the snow. I had my doubts that I would ever find it again after the heavy snowfall of last week. For the time being I was happy to find everything intact.

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 17, 2009 - 09:23

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Apologies for no contact - technology issues. (Thought i'd escaped the office but alas...)

Anyway, good news. The climbing permit was granted on time and we crossed the border into Tibet on 10 September.

After a night at Xangmu we drove up the Friendship highway to Nyalam early on Friday morning to avoid the ongoing roadworks along the way. A huge amount of work has been done since my last visit to this area with smooth bitumen making the journey quick and painless.

We spent 2 nights in Nyalam for acclimatization as the the town is situated just below 4000 metres. On our first day we climbed nearby hills to 4650 m and on the second to 5000 m to push the acclimatisation process a little.

On the 13th we drove to Chinese basecamp at an altitude of 5000 metres where we camped for 3 nights before trekking to advance basecamp yesterday. ABCis 5600 metres.

Whilst in Chinese bc, Carlos Pauner, an old friend from Kanchenjunga in 2003, arrived by horse from advance basecamp after falling from rocks and breaking several ribs when climbing to camp 1 a few days ago. For him the climbing season is over.

For us the expedition is just beginning and we are keen to get onto the mountain. We've all picked up headcolds and other ailments from passing through rather squalid villages but hope to have these under control soon.

Puja ceremony tomorrow and possibly onto the hill the next day.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

"Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face | Photo by Frank Kretschmann

THE JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA ON THE EIGER NORTH FACE HAS FINALLY BEEN FREED BY ROBERT JASPER AND ROGER SCHÄLI.
The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (GER) and Roger Schäli (CH) managed to finally free climb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.

Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli | Photo by Robert Jasper

Written by Mountain Hardwear Athlete Robert Jasper

For six years the Eiger and the project of redpointing the Japanese Route kept me in. Over and over again my friend Roger Schäli and myself tried to climb the two by then well known crux sections, the "Difficult Crack" and "Rote Fluh".

The "Rote Fluh" is the steepest, most difficult and most rejecting part of the entire Eiger North Face. Our final goal was to free the entire Japaner-Diretissima which heads right through the "Rote Fluh". Now - precisely timed for the 40th anniversary of the historical route which was ascended first in 1969 - we finally succeeded.

Robert Jasper | Photo by Franz Walter

JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA
1. First ascent: 15. 07- 15.08.1969
Imai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Kubo, Amano 6,A2, 1800m
1.free ascent redpoint, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli
28.-31.08.2009 8a, M5, (10- UIAA); 1800m
Route Characteristics
- Many pitons from the Japanese Expedition Team throughout the "Rote Fluh" face
- "Rote Fluh": very good rockquality here.
- Heavy rockfall danger at the second icefeeld
- Very challenging alpine climbing with very little protection (often times bad rock quality)
- Most protections have to be placed by the climbers themselves
Minimum Equipement
- 1 set of friends und rocks
- 6 pitons including knifeblades
- 2-3 icescrews and iceclimbing gear
- 60 meter ropes and bivac equipement

By Sean McDevitt Mountain Hardwear Design

Sean McDevitt lined up amongst the top riders at start of the Tahoe Sierra 100 | Photo by Annie Larkin

Bike racing is my vehicle for self exploration. In the spirit of this, I lined up at the start line of the Tahoe Sierra 100. 7 a.m. at Ice Lakes Lodge in Soda Springs, CA, I was queued up behind Tinker Juarez and regional pro strong men Dez Wilder and Kevin Smallman. Amidst whistle blows, camera flashes and much clapping, about 200 of us hurtled down the rocky and technical Soda Springs fire-road. While riding in the top 30 going into the descent, I wound my way through the pack as I warmed up to my Cannondale Scalpel. About 2 miles into a ripping descent, I flatted, pulled off and quickly fixed the flat as countless racers whizzed past me on a loamy switch back. Back on my bike I quickly spun my way through the red platted 50 milers until I flatted again and my heart sank. I hailed down a 50 miler to borrow a pump. I quickly patched a tube, pumped it up but it wouldn't hold. Thankfully, I told the racer to go on. I realized my day was done and sadly started walking back up the hill to the start and finish. This was not the day I hoped for. After a few minutes I ran into Sean Allan, running sweep on his Cannondale Rizer bike. He had tubes, CO2 and a pump. My day was saved. Even though I was an hour behind everyone, I was determined to have at least a bit of fun. After pumping my rear tire up to 50 psi I rode off.

My game was on, doing 2 wheel drifts through every corner. After maybe 20 minutes of ripping through the Sierras my rear tire washed out in left hander. Back up in seconds I pedaled furiously, determined to do something. Eventually, I found riders and passed them on a good grunt of a climb and then descended into sweet single-track of Red Star Ridge. I got a little full of myself on the descent until my front wheel ego check about ½ way down. I counted at least 3 times I said out loud "Jesus Christ Jim" as I slid past downed tree stumps at high speed.

Soon I shot onto a paved road and then to a gruesome fire-road climb but was rewarded with amazing swoopy water-barred single track of the Western States Trail. I was surprised how much technical single track there was. It was super fast, super fun but technical enough that you felt things could go terribly wrong if you weren't on your game. It is an interesting head game when you are 50ish miles out, you've flatted 3 times, wrecked twice, killed one squirrel and you know you are only half way through your day. The remainder of the ride was a blur of technical single-track, endless fire-road climbing, great views, aid stations filled with cool people, and great food. Although I finished well behind of what I wanted, I had a great day and wouldn't take it back for anything.

Tinker Juarez crushing it! | Photo by Annie Larkin

Dez Wilder comes in 7th. | Photo by Annie Larkin

Sean McDevitt survives the day. | Photo by Annie Larkin

Dougald MacDonald, past editor in chief of Rock & Ice, regular contributor to Men's Journal, Outside, Backpacker, and more likes our Runout Pants.

"Mountain Hardwear Runout climbing pants. Super-comfortable. Fit well under a harness. Look good enough to wear out to dinner--at least until you smear them with chalk and aluminum grime from your rope."
- Dougald MacDonald's Blog, themountainworld.blogspot.com

The Runout Pant has a Crag™ Canvas Body that is 100% cotton canvas. Heavy duty, durable cotton canvas "breaks in" beautifully with time and washing. Pigment dyed, peached face. 8.5 oz/yd2.

• Lots of pockets for storage
• Adjustable drawcord hidden inside hem to cinch pant leg
• UPF 50 sun protection
• Integrated webbing belt with buckle closure for easy fit adjustments
• Durable canvas fabric great for day cragging
• Inseam gusset and articulated knees for mobility
>>Where to buy

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 22, 2009 - 12:25

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

The weather continues to hold at Shisha and our fingers remain crossed for more of the same.

On the 20th, Kinga and I climbed to camp 1 at 6250 metres. It was a blisteringly hot day and the hundreds of jagged ice pinnacles at the start of the climb added to the challenge as we searched for a route over and around them to access the easier glacier on the far side.

Route finding in the pinnacles. | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Then followed a long slog up to the camp site, which we reached after about 7 hours climbing from abc. There are quite a few crevasses at that point and we exposed a big one whilst digging for a tent site, so found a more consolidated location before setting up house and moving in. A bit of an uncomfortable night followed as the altitude tested our resolve but a few ibuprofens later the sun finally rose. That was just an acclimatisation night, so we packed up and dropped down to ABC yesterday for some proper sleep.

Washing and general domestics today but tomorrow the game continues. We'll head back up the hill with more food and equipment, sleep again at camp 1 before pushing up to camp 2 at around 6800 metres. One or two nights there before returning to ABC in a few days time will hopefully complete our acclimatisation before the summit push.

ABC - hard to find good help! | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Sunday, September 20, 2009 - Makalu base camp

"The snow on the monsoon was 30 centimeters high in the vertical passages of the wall." | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

While I am writing these lines, I am sitting here, at 5250 meters over sea at Makalu base camp. Over me, the summit of Makalu, 8463 meters high. Exactly 3213 meters lie between me and my wishful dream.

Exactly one week ago I was at the foot of the west pillar. At 6700 meter I installed a camp. Fully motivated, I wanted to complete this project. I am very well prepare for it. In the morning at 3 o'clock I started to climb. I was so sure: "Steck will now climb the west pillar. Solo and without fix ropes to the summit." But then everything was different. The considerable amounts of fresh snow showed me clearly where my limits were. But I fought. I did not give up. It' not me to say so fast, that it doesn't work. I know exactly if I don't get everything out of it for myself or if I cancel the whole thing and then sit in my warm living-room, I would feel ashamed for this!

Chicago, Illinois - September 22nd, 2009

Uncle Dan's -The Great Outdoor Store

Chicagoland outdoor retailer Uncle Dan's Great Outdoor Store has been named retailer of the year by the Illinois Retail Merchants Association.

The award was presented to Uncle Dan's CEO Brent Weiss, Wednesday, September 16, 2009 at a luncheon at the Palmer House Hotel.

"Brent understands the true nature of retailing," the association's president, David Vite, said. "His stores focus not only on serving the customers, but serving the community. He knows if he takes care of his customers on every level they will keep coming back."

Uncle Dan's was founded in 1972 and has four stores in Chicagoland. Locations are Highland Park, Evanston and in Chicago's Lincoln Park and Wrigleyville neighborhoods.

Where Outdoor Adventures Begin: Uncle Dan's Sells Outdoor Clothing and Gear While Offering a Lifestyle of Adventure and Fun
By Peter Gill - Illinois Retail Merchants Association

Jonathan Plotkin's son was planning a trip to an outdoor music festival in Florida, so Jonathan went to his friend's business, Uncle Dan's The Great Outdoor Store, to outfit his son for the trip. While he had no idea of what his son might need, it just so happened that an Uncle Dan's employee had attended the same festival a few years earlier and knew all about how to protect himself from fire ants, the hot days and the rainy nights. By the end of his shopping trip, Jonathan not only had all the right gear, but the confidence his son would have everything he needed.
Click here to view the full story.

Royce Hughes | Photo Courtesy of YES

Click here to watch the 10th Annicersary Video.

Contact YES:
2811 Macdonald Ave.
Richmond, CA 94804
(510) 232-3032
info@yesfamilies.org
Join the mailing list here.

Mountain Hardwear Gives Back to YES
Thanks to daily website visits and clicks, supporters helped raise $3,500 through Mountain Hardwear's Gives Back Program this past spring. Along with contributions from other foundations and donors, YES sent 270 low-income youth to summer camp in 2009. Click here to read more about how YES and Mountain Hardwear are partnering to make a difference in the community.

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Makalu | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Yesterday, Thursday September 24, 2009, Ueli Steck summited 8463 meter high Makalu over the normal route. The Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It lies easterly of Mount Everest at the border between Nepal and China.

Together with Robert Bösch he started on September 24 at 3 o'clock in the morning from camp 3 at 7350 meters. A lot of snow was lying. Robert Bösch returned at an altitude of approximately 7900 meters.

At about 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the same day Ueli Steck reached the summit. He descended the same day to camp 3 at 7350 meters.

Today, September 25, 2009 they were back at base camp of Makalu.

Women's Clouds Rest 5° | View all Mountain Hardwear Sleeping Bags

Mountain Hardwear Clouds Rest: A little bit of heaven!
Review on RockClimberGirl.com

I also got to finally put my Mountain Hardwear Womens' Clouds Rest down bag to a real test, and holy crap, did it pass with flying colors. I already had an inexplicably emotional attachment to it, given that it's an inanimate object... when I unrolled it in the tent I got all warm and fuzzy inside and just wanted to give it a big hug. Yes, I'm gear crazy. When I nestled in for the night, and tucked the face and neck gasket around my neck, and nestled in to its big fluffy hood, with room inside for all of my soggy gear to warm up and dry out overnight, that was it. It's all over. I'm afraid I'm going to be settling down, for good, with this sleeping bag. I'm off the sleeping bag market. The guys were cold on the cooler nights; I was stripped down to base layers and so comfy, toasty warm I had to vent the bag every single night.

In this video Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Kenton Cool talks about the South Col Pack, Ghost SL Sleeping Bag, Navigation Pants, and the Argon Jacket. He makes some good points explaining why this gear is perfect for the Alps. For example, " The Navigation Pants are made of stretchy, semi waterproof material with an internal gator at the bottom. The color is fantastic for the alps; it is not black. The cool color is perfect for when the sun comes up on the glaciers so you will not fry in them. They are indestructible and have a built in waistband to cinch so you don't have problems with your harness." Click on the images below for more details.

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

Climbing to Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Back into ABC on Friday afternoon after a worthwhile acclimatisation climb to camp 2, where we slept for the night at 6750 metres.

Neil and Kinga in Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

We deposited a tent, food, stoves, gas, rope and other climbing gear in readiness for our return. With camp 1 and camp 2 both now stocked, our next push will be for the summit.

Saturday and Sunday were spent eating and sleeping, and yesterday saw my second wash since arriving at the mountain.

And the winner is... | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Mmm, speaking of things savoury, yesterday also saw the big 'taste off' between my vegemite and Neil's evil marmite. A range of Sherpas, Tibetans and climbers were invited to participate, wth Vegemite the undisputed winner. (basecamp amusement.)

A small but strong international team of climbers made a summit push yesterday but were unsuccessful in traversing from the central summit to the main summit. This is where i've also been stopped on previous attempts.

My team's plan is to attempt to traverse from camp 3 to another ridge on the north face which cuts out the central summit and provides direct access to the main summit but it is long, crevassed and difficult climbing, so we know we'll have our work cut out for us.

We are fit and motivated and the wrather appears to be holding, so we'll start the summit push tomorrow. If all goes well, we're hoping to summit on 2 October.

Next report won't be until the 3rd or 4th. Wish us luck please.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com