On September 4, I reached 6700 meters on the West Pillar. Before I spent a comfortable night underneath the Jumeaux I at 6000 meters. My motivation was immense. I felt very good and I am convinced that I benefited a lot from my Gasherbrum II expedition. I had the chance to study the pillar from very close. The route looks very difficult: steep rock and ice climbing on over 7500 meters. My joy was nearly boundless. The weather was good and the snow conditions sensational. After Meteotest transmitted me bad weather for Saturday, I descended the same day - Friday - to BC. It was a good trip to get well acclimatised and to study the route.
Today is Sunday. The whole night it has snowed. We are all sitting at BC. The weather forecast looks bad and it looks like we are damned to wait. This means: wait and see, read books and try not to loose the motivation. Through the fog we can hear very clearly "wumm" sounds. A sign of bigger avalanches.
But sometimes the conditions will improve. Until then we have to wait.
See you soon!
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