Hardwear Sessions

By Shannon Davis posted on Backpacker.com

The author demonstrates proper hitchhiking technique while wearing a kilt. | Photo Courtesy of Shannon Davis posted on Backpacker.com

Be bold and wear this hiking kilt on trail--you (and the ladies) will thank us!

First off, it's a kilt. Not a skirt. There were definitely a lot of "hey, cool skirt!" comments floating around. There are basically two ways to respond to this. 1) Correct that person, as I mostly chose to (the irascible approach). 2) Just say "thanks, man" (the hell cares approach). But one thing's for sure: Wearing a kilt definitely requires an attitude that's both bold and carefree. If you don't have this attitude naturally, a kilt will help you foster one along. It requires cojones.

And speaking of cojones, after I stepped out of the car, only 2.3 seconds passed before another person in our group (a woman!) lifted up my kilt. In addition to drawing attention, a kilt also apparently erases social mores. Women, at least initially, do not respect the kilt in the same way that men respect a skirt.

But how does it perform in the mountains...Read more on Backpacker.com

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Jon Bowermaster. Read more on his Blog

Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

Often by the time the mainstream media runs big stories about an environmental battle it's often too late. I've seen it up-close dozens of times during the past couple decades and have reported so many David-versus-Goliath stories - usually positing good-hearted indigenous peoples and international environmental groups against greedy, monolithic utility companies and strong-arming government agents - that the stories have almost become fill-in-the-blanks. (Just change the name of the indigenous tribe, the utility company and the country and the story - and outcome - are usually very similar.)

Yet despite ominous recent headlines in the Wall Street Journal ("Galapagos Under Siege"), the Times ("Can Darwin's Lab Survive Success") and UK's Independent ("Tourism, Over-Population and Overfishing Have Become the Blight of the Galapagos"), I happen to believe that the Ecuadorian archipelago will survive (even if more and more of its endemic creatures may not) and flourish. In some respects, as the standard bearer for the planet's evolutionary history, it simply must. As Alex Hearn, a marine biologist with the Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz Island told us about the Galapagos future, "if we can't get it right here, where can we?" A microcosm of the planet's wildlife, if the Galapagos loses its wildness it will feel like the end is near for the rest of our wild places.

Given my interest in man's relationship with the sea, it was hard not to go to the Galapagos for a first-hand look at exactly how we are impacting this once truly special place. Spurred by comments by the Ecuadorian president ("the Galapagos are at great risk") and UNESCO, which first declared the Galapagos a world heritage site and has now put it on an "in danger" list, we took video cameras and digital recorders and came back with a story not so much about the incredible biodiversity of its wildlife but about how man is wrestling with his presence there.

Jon Bowermaster filming in Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

The film we've made - "What Would Darwin Think?" - is nearly complete; in advance of that I wanted to share some of the stories, photos and videos brought back from several weeks of conversations and poking around.

According to a recent report by the Darwin Foundation, "Galápagos at Risk" the islands' crisis does not just stem from an unprecedented rise in tourism, but also from a change in the marketplace. "Early tourism in the Galápagos was characterized by nature-loving tourists," the report said, seeking "to learn about Darwin and see the amazing species that helped him to develop his theory of evolution." It noted that these guests were "easily accommodated by smaller, locally owned tour operators."

But, the study continued, the market expanded to include "eco-tourists," who also like to visit places like Machu Picchu, the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, Easter Island and the Great Barrier Reef. These tourists are "often more selective in terms of required comfort and is better served by multinational tour operators," the report said.

A consequence has been that local owners cannot compete with the foreign-run companies doing business in the Galápagos. Of the $418 million generated by tourism annually, only $63 million is estimated to enter the local economy. And of the 80 tourism boats allowed to operate in the Galápagos, only about 40 percent are locally owned. "We have to think about the people and not just the plants and animals, or it will all collapse," the report concluded.

Galapagos Clip 1

While Sea Sheperd's chief cheerleader and trouble-inspirer Paul Watson is holding forth from his ship, The Farley Mowat, continuing its chase of Japanese whale hunters off Antarctica and (recently) being arrested on a thirty-year-old warrant in Portugal (where he had gone to attend a meeting of the International Whaling Commission) ... the Washington state-based environmental group's second-most visible campaign is ongoing, in the Galapagos.

A Winter Jacket That Charges Your Gadgets

October 2, 2009
By Rik Fairlie

Available in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket | Photo Courtesy of New York Times Blog

Yep, that's right. Reach into the front left pocket and you'll find a power adapter that enables you to charge your iPod, digital camera, GPS device or cellphone -- no matter if you're riding a mountain bike or roaming snowy city streets. The heating and power capabilities are made possible by the addition of rechargeable lithium-ion battery and heating system developed by Ardica Technology.

Read more on New York Times Gadgetwise Blog.

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Take a look at the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Mountain Hardwear Facilities Manager, Mark Perrilliat | Photo by Roland Dare

With an extensive background in the outdoor products industry, I came to Mountain Hardwear in 2000. This black and white photo was found in the outdoor archives. As Facilities Manager, I am in the office one minute and checking vents on the roof the next. Therefore, the durability and flexibility of the Mesa Convertible Pants work well for me. The Micro Grid Zip T happens to be my favorite color and keeps me warm without having to deal with a jacket. My favorite MHW piece is the Butter-Man ½ Zip. I coach football and basketball at El Sobrante Christian Middle School and I usually wear this piece when I'm tossing the ball around with the kids. It is also on my back for Saturday morning basketball practices at the Berkeley High School." - Mark Perrilliat, Mountain Hardwear Facilities Manager

September 28,2009
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

Standing guard over one of the world's most populated cities, the volcanoes overlooking Mexico City are shrouded in the mystery and allure of the legends of their ancient past. This November, Erik will lead a team of blind and sighted students on an expedition to these infamous peaks.

As the legend goes, the volcanoes of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl were created from the tragic love of the Aztec princess Iztaccíhuatl and the warrior Popocatépetl. These magnificent peaks were formed by Popo's fiery emotion and immortalized in Itza's womanly shape. From a distance, Itza forms the outline of a woman lying on her back. Although few have explored their broad talus and snow slopes up close, they have a beauty, a history and a palpable presence which transcend their stunning visual prominence. Combining an unlikely team of blind and sighted young adults from Mexico and the United States, it will be an extraordinary journey of leadership, discovery and adventure. For this expedition, Global Explorers has partnered their nationally recognized Leading the Way program with the Mexican nonprofit Ojos que Sienten. Their goal: to reach the higher limits of 17,159-foot Iztaccíhuatl and, in the process, to break down barriers and misperceptions about disabilities. This trip is made possible through the support of numerous sponsors, including Unilever. Thanks to the generosity of Fundación Televisa and Fundación Cinépolis, an eye operation will be donated for every participant who reaches the summit.

Students Alysha Jeans and Andrew Johnson check out the ruins of Machu Picchu on Erik's 2006 trip with Global Explorers to the Super Inca Trail. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Oct 4, 2009 - 15:50
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Did it! Summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, 2nd October, with Neil Ward.

Very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face, caught in a storm on descent with an open bivouac at 7600 metres without equipment thrown in for good measure.

Just into basecamp now, bit tired, more later.

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Sorry for being out of contact. Since our summit day the weather has been appalling with consequent lack of solar power.

October 8, 2009 - 17.20
THE DETAILS...

Based on the forecast and our reading of conditions, Neil and I decided to try for a summit on 2 October. We set off on 29 September for Camp 1 and up to C3 on 1 October at 7400 metres.

Other teams were trying only for the Central (false) summit but we'd come for the real summit and decided on a variation of the 'Inaki' route, which would have us climb further east on the North face than Inaki's line. We hoped it would give us steep but direct access to the summit ridge.

On the 2nd we set off at 5am from camp 3 and traversed across the broad north face to position ourselves under the route we wanted to climb. The snow on the face was mucher deeper than we'd hoped for, making it harder climbing with greater avalanche risk but still achievable if all went well.

Although we wanted to hit the top around midday, the deep snow and long route delayed us and the weather deteriorated through the day, making it a race for the top. It was absolutely exhausting breaking trail in deep soft snow but we finally hit the summit ridge at 4pm.

We then had a razor sharp ridge to traverse before sneaking along the face underneath some chunky ice cornices. This was the most dangerous part as the cornices threatened from above whilst with every step we set off small avalanches.

Finally however we hit the top at 5.05pm in swirling cloud, snapped a couple of pics then raced as fast as we could back down the ridge to our route on the face.

We downclimbed in darkness trying to beat the encroaching storm but it caught us. Our tracks were covered and headlamps rendered useless in the falling snow, so we decided the safest though very unpleasant option was to bivouac on an ice ledge we cut with our axes. No tent, stove, sleeping bags etc, so we sat on our packs for a little insulation.

The biggest fear was being caught by oedema or high winds. Luckily neither happened. It snowed on us through the night and it was bitterly cold ( -20 to -30 C) but we made it through.

At 5.30am it was light enough to see the way, so we downclimbed to c3, arriviving about 8.30 am.

The first thing to do was radio basecamp and let them know we were alive, then we melted snow to rehydrate as we'd only had 500ml each to drink in the previous 27 hours and were terribly dehydrated from all the climbing in the very cold dry air.

Later in the morning we packed up C3 and started the descent to abc, which took 2 days to complete.

That about sums it up. One more dispatch to follow now that I have power again.

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

2010 Applications are due November 15th!

Greenland Ev Direct tent | Photo by Josh Helling

The Mountain Hardwear sponsorship program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. Download the 2010 Application Here

It's close... will Team Mountain Hardwear win the tug of war?

Visit Water Stone Outdoors to see more action.

October 11, 2009
Expedition Complete.

Now in Kathmandu sorting, cleaning and repairing equipment before finding a flight back to Australia and the 'real world'.

Neil and I are still pretty tired and the stairs at the hotel are a challenge in themselves but its good to be eating real food and getting the odd hot shower.

Thankyou to all who've sent Neil and I congratulatory messages. I didn't realise there were so many following our progress and my apologies for not responding directly to everyone, yet. It means a lot though, so thanks.

I've received a few requests for specifics about the route we climbed -whether it was the '80s Austrian route or the '00s Inaki route. I think it might have been a combination of both. I think the Austrians traversed the north face above a large serac band whilst Inaki went below. We also went below. From there I'm not too sure which line the various parties took. We went to the left of the 3 fingers of rock that rise from around 7700 metres to 7800 metres, and from there went straight up to the summit ridge. Then along/up the ridge to the top. Those who care can fight over the 'name' of the route. We just enjoyed the climb.

Climbing Shisha was more than just reaching the top of an 8000er for me. It was the final peak in my quest to climb all fourteen of the 8000ers and it was also the first Austalian ascent of that mountain's true summit. So it was a lot of reward for a tough climb and the experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it. I think the bivy on the way down was Shisha's way of letting us know that we'd been 'allowed' the summit but shouldn't get too cocky about it.

Of course, whilst it was Neil and I doing the physical work on this climb, there was a lot of support in the background. Many thanks to Robin Boustead, Judy Smith and Jamie McGuiness for very valuable weather information, and the following organisations for high quality equipment and sponsorship, without which the climb would have been much more difficult and dangerous:
Mountain Hardwear
Gore-tex
Outdoor Life Group - Sydney
Trek and Travel - Sydney
Fisherman's Friend
Spelean (Sydney) & Petzl
Australian Geographic
Millet
World Expeditions

Sooooo, have I finished with 8000 metre climbing? No. I have at least one more climb I'd like to do next year in the pre-monsoon season. Details to be announced later. So stay tuned and thankyou all again for your support and good wishes.

Andrew

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

MHW Fan Becomes the First Turkish Woman to Summit Aconcagua
By Gulnur Tumbat, Assistant Professor at SFSU

Gulnur Tumbat at the top of Aconcagua | Photo Courtesy of Gulnur Tumbat

I am an academic and I love my job. One problem however is that during the Falls and Springs of every year, or in other words, during the climbing seasons in the Himalayas, I have to be at school teaching my undergrad and MBA students. There are always sabbaticals to go back to Himalayas, but only every 7 years. It can be challenging. That leaves winters and summers for my research and travels. It was one of those "I can't breath" moments when I started to plan my last winter. I needed to take a break from writing. The choice was easy: it was climbing season in South America. So, I contacted a few friends whom I like to hang out and who are good climbing partners. Job issues and other commitments was a problem so no one was going to be able to make it. After reading many legitimate climbing reports and after talking to my guide friends, I got a feeling that I may be able to climb Aconcagua solo. I put together my itinerary, went over my gear, upgraded some and I was ready. It may sound like a 10-minute preparation but it stretched out over months. Oh, I have been climbing for 15+ years, train outdoors pretty intense, and more importantly I consider myself having the right attitude and understanding of what it takes to climb big mountains. This is not a place for a climbing resume (well mine is way too short to mention on a website like this one anyway) and you don't know me as a person, so this is all I can tell you about my background if you are wondering who I am. I find myself lucky that I also get to combine what I love to do with my job, that is my climbing and my research on risk marketing and risk consumption. I use high-altitude climbing expeditions as my context - not just by reading about them but by being part of the actual experience (the best way of learning!). There is still not enough experience, not enough knowledge, and not enough skills, but one has to go out, climb, and play more to improve and learn more, right?

Day One In Rock Climbing Paradise
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

Paradise! | Photo by James Q Martin

After a long and arduous guiding season, I wanted some island living. Warm weather, short approaches, and light backpacks is what I had been dreaming of while slogging on the glaciers. It was the simple life and the idea of traveling around the island on scooters that called to me. Finally, after a few months of planning, my dream of sport climbing near the Mediterranean came true.

The beautiful Greek island of Kalymnos | Photo by James Q Martin

Yesterday Pat Ormond and I arrived on the Greek island of Kalymnos. As we flew in we could see that the island, was covered in amazing limestone cliffs. Beautiful walls lined the coast and met the sapphire blue water of the Mediterranean. As we traveled to our hotel we passed many steep caves with crazy tufas of all sizes. The cliffs called to us like we were little kids at the playground.

After surviving the taxi ride through the narrow crowded streets, we arrived at the Hotel Philoxenia and were greeted by Nicolas, our very gracious host. The locations of our accommodations are awesome. The hotel is at the base of the Grande Grotto, one of the most inspiring caves that we have seen so far. As we entered our hotel room, we were taken back by our view of the sea. It seemed that we had found a climbers' paradise.

Dawn arriving at Hotel Philoxenia. | Photo by James Q Martin

EAST BAY, SF and TAHOE folks - Mountain Hardwear Sponsored, Powderwhore is rolling through this weekend on their tour for "Flakes", their newest ski porn flick. All shows have been packed. Check it out!

Friday 10/23 - 7pm - Sports Basement - 1590 Bryant St in San Francisco (6-7pm is happy hour w/ free beer and wine)
Saturday 10/24 - 7pm - Sawtooth Ridge Cafe - Tahoe City

More info: www.powderwhore.com
Tour Dates here

View tour images here

Oct 20,2009
Climbers News found on MountEverest.net

Himalaya wrap-up: Nepal 7000ers action
Robert Jasper has left his regular playground on the Eiger's north face and showed up in Nepal (MountEverest.net) While Nepal and Tibet's 8000ers are virtually deserted, action continues on smaller peaks such as Baruntse, Pumori and Ama Dablam, less affected by the high winds of the jet stream.

Current expeditions on Nepal's peaks
Simone Moro mentioned earlier that the Anthamatten brothers we going for Jasemba (7350 m), Robert Jasper was aiming for Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cholatse, and Tomaz Humar was also in place - all choosing Nepalese projects due the closure of Tibet imposed by the communist regime.

Besides several teams currently on popular Ama Dablam, some commercial expeditions are launching summit bids on other 6000/7000 meters peaks in Nepal.

A team outfitted by SummitClimb is training on Mera Peak befre attempting Baruntse. Tim Rippel's Peak Freaks team is advancing on Pumori. "Sherpas Jangbu, Tashi, Paulden and Kaji did more carries up to Camp 1 today so it is just about complete," Tim wrote yesterday. "Tomorrow we will climb up again to ABC but this time we will stay the night to allow everyone to adjust to the new altitude, then retreat to BC the next day."

"Mt. Pumori is rarely climbed and in particular the route we have been pioneering since 1998, not the standard route but the South Ridge," Tim explained. "We used to do training on Ama Dablam but it doesn't sit well with us anymore."

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

In late August, my friends, Mike and Pat O'Donnell, and I arrived in Wyoming to climb the Grand Teton. The Tetons are an icon of the Rockies, rising up abruptly from the Wyoming grassland and piercing the sky with sharp granite teeth. At 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of the steepest and most technical peaks in the lower 48 states and has been on my list for many years. It is the place where many mountaineering legends learned their trade to challenge peaks around the world.

Erik approaches belay guides | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Not long after we arrived in Jackson, WY, we encountered two friendly faces. On a ferry across Jenny Lake en route to a practice climb, we ran into longtime friends, Kelly and her husband Craig Perkins. To add to the irony, two weeks earlier, I ran into Kelly and Craig at the base of another rock face while training near San Jacinto peak in California. Kelly, a hero of mine, was the recipient of a heart transplant in 1995 after a severe virus destroyed her own heart. They have climbed all over the world, from the infamous face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California (of course, the Heart Route) to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, championing the cause of organ and tissue donation. In 2001, Kelly stunned her doctors by climbing 19,340-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa.

On this most recent trip, Kelly and Craig set out to complete the Grand Traverse, a classic route that reaches ten summits along the Teton Range. Kelly enlisted seven cardiac nurses from the Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center to join her on a portion of the climb. The project, aptly named "Stand on the Grand for Organ and Tissue Donation, " taught the nurses about the excertional demands of climbing on the heart, and served as an inspiration for heart patients as well. Most importantly, the climb helped to promote Craig and Kelly's campaign for organ donations.The New York Times published an outstanding article on Kelly's climb, NYTimes.com

Pat Odonnell and Erik Weihenmayer Belay | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

After the chance meeting in Wyoming, our teams climbed accordion style to a spectacular finish on the Guide's Wall. We all rappelled down just in time to avoid being drenched by the usual afternoon thunderstorms. Then, our two teams parted ways as Mike, Pat and I prepared for our attempt of the Petzl Ridge on the Grand.

Erik Weihenmayer and Pat Odonnell ascending. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

When we awoke the following day, five inches of snow had fallen on the Grand Teton, adding to a foot of snow which had fallen the previous week. We decided to push ahead to the Moraine bivy site in Garnet Canyon, the staging area for an assault on the upper flanks. The weather was chilly as we ascended the lower section of the mountain, crossing scree fields of frozen and slippery rock. As we reached the technical climbing on the Petzl Ridge, we encountered ferocious winds. We climbed with down jackets, fleece hats, and gloves, not at-all typical for August. Although the weather improved marginally with the sun beginning to peek from the clouds, the wind was still painfully cold but we pushed ahead on ice-covered rock. Pat remarked sarcastically that it was "great weather for rock shoes!" As we gained altitude, the elements became more challenging as we struggled up frozen rock with minimal gear. Spirits dampened some as a climber above us fell ten feet and landed on his back, narrowly avoiding a fatal accident, we simul-climbed the last 1,500 feet (a technique by which rope teams ascend together while placing rock protection between them). At 2:30 PM, our team of three reached the now snow-covered summit block. Accompanied by Mike and Pat, I became the first blind person to stand atop the Grand Teton. Sixteen hours after beginning, we fell into our sleeping bags exhausted, but satisfied from a marvelous adventure.

Kelly Perkins has recently released her book, The Climb of My Life, Scaling Mountains with a Borrowed Heart. View more information at: www.craigandkelly.com/ordercandkbook.htm

Summit of Grand Teton! | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise - Greek island of Kalymnos
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

The Island of Kalymnos is known for amazing limestone climbing. There are multiple walls to choose from. Long slabs, slightly overhanging walls and deep caves are abundant. What intrigues most climbers are the tufas. A Tufa is like a stalactite; which is formed from the calcite and silica deposits that drip from the rock. The Tufas come in all shapes and sizes. Some are small rounded blobs, what climbers may call chicken heads. Other Tufas resemble flowstone. My favorite type of Tufa is the long icicle looking formations that hang from the rock faces and drip down from the caves. Typically the tufas are awesome positive holds, what we refer to as jugs.

Some amazing limestone climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

The Tufa climbing requires a climber to think outside the box. The climbing is three-dimensional and requires the climber not only to look up, but also all around. A giant Tufa may be hanging just behind and out of your peripheral view, providing a stem move to relieve the over hanging nature of the climb. My favorite is the Tufa hug, which allows a no hands rest as you sit, straddle or hug the formation. These crazy no hands rests allow the 35-meter overhanging cave routes to be possible. This may be the wildest rock climbing that I have ever encountered. It makes me feel like a kid on a jungle gym, and I love it.

Challenging three-dimensional climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn's Tufa hug | Photo by James Q Martin

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

A few days ago we chattered a boat to go water soloing. We headed to the town of Vathi to catch our water taxi. The boat driver spoke no English, so we brought along the guidebook. We could then simply point to the destination that we had in mind. After a short boat ride, we arrived at a small cave with huge hueco pockets and tufas. Pat, Tim, James, Julia and I were all totally psyched. We had the place to ourselves and it seemed too good to be true.

We each took turns climbing, so that the others could heckle from the boat. We would dive in the crystal clear blue water with our shoes on and swim over to the routes. Finding a good hold to pull you out of the water and onto the rock was not a problem. Once on the rock, the movement felt very free, there was no rope or quick draws to deal with. You could climb as the spirit moved you, or until you could not hold on any more.

It was hard at times to convince myself that it was safe to fall. At the top of each route, I found myself on a giant jug, over gripping and fighting my fear of dropping into the water. I would get incredibly nervous and then my fingers would simply fail. I would drop the 15-20 feet into the water screaming loudly all the way until I was submersed in the warm water. After clearing the salt water from my sinuses, I would laugh and smile as I swam back to the boat. The heckling would continue as I climbing into the boat on how the fear of falling had paralyzed me, stopping me from advancing any higher.

When fingers fail there is a 15-20 foot drop into the warm, blue water. | Photo by James Q Martin

Being on the water was beautiful. The sea is crystal clear, allowing us to view the marine life below. It was great to explore and see the island from a new perspective. Now that the day has passed, I find myself longing for that experience again. I now have to be cautious to not let all this island living spoil me for the upcoming ice season. It may be to late.

By Guy Willet from Dream Guides

On 28th September Guy Willett skied Manalslu, which at 8156m is the world's 8th highest mountain. Guy's ski descent is the second ever descent of Manalsu, with the first being in 1981. This just goes to show how infrequently successful ski descents of 8000m peaks are made. (*note - the 'completeness' of the Austrian 1981 descent is still to be confirmed - Guy's could be the first 'complete' ski descent)

About Guy: Guy is a British IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide based in Chamonix. Along with MHW athlete Kenton Cool, he runs Dream Guides. He has many steep descents to his credit in the Alps and first descents in Greenland and Alaska.

The Route: North East Face route (in ascent & descent) with deviations to avoid rappelling steep icy sections.

Manaslu ski route (Click to enlarge) | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

The Ascent

Basecamp is at 4850m and a moraine walk and rocky step lead to 'Crampon Point' (5050m), where the route joins the glacier and roping up becomes the norm. The route to Camp 1 weaves through crevasses before heading to the top of a rocky promontory on the right at 5750m, just below the Icefall.

Camp 1 weaves through crevasses. I Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

Leaving the tent at C1 the route continues up a short snow crest to 5850m, where it joins the Icefall and traverses left through several complex crevasses and crosses under an active serac at 5900m (this is the one serious objective danger on the route, but thankfully one is exposed to the potential avalanches for only a minute). After the traverse, we are at the Hour Glass - a V shaped snow slope of 40-45 degrees of 100m providing access through the steepest part of the icefall. Thereafter, weaving through huge crevasses, up ice steps, steep snow and ice crests, the route takes us to Camp 2 at 6300m where the glacier mellows. A simple snow slope (with a few crevasses) brings us to Camp 3 at the North Col (6800m) and truly amazing sunsets.

Snowslope leads to steep glacial ice cliffs. I Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

Camp 3 to Camp 4 (7450m) is a tough day. A steepening snow slope leads to steep glacial ice cliffs (near vertical) at 7100m. Fixed ropes aid progress but difficulties are sustained until just before camp. Summit day follows straight forward snow slopes to almost 8000m where the slope narrows and steepens to 40 odd degrees as it nears the summit (8156m)

Manaslu summit | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

The Descent

Skiing with supplementary oxygen from the top down to 7450m, Guy skied the North East face route (the 'voie normale'), deviating from the line of ascent several times to avoid having to rappel steep icy sections. In all Guy took his skis off once to make a short rappel (5m) over a crevasse at 6200m (in a white out).

Skiing with supplementary oxygen | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

I skied the ascent line to C4 in difficult breakable crust and took a 45 minute break to warm my freezing feet. From C4 I skied the exposed line of ascent on chalky snow of 40-45 degrees to 7250m, where I traversed several hundred metres to the skier's right to avoid the ice cliffs. Some great turns down the huge face followed by a traverse back left brought me past C3 and onto the steady snow slope to C2 at the start of the Icefall. The Icefall proved difficult, with many steep sections with big crevasse falls punishing any mistakes. Inconveniently, convection clouds had built up and I was in frequent whiteout. I had to take my skis off once at 6200m to make a short rappel (5m) over a crevasse, but otherwise managed to negotiate the obstacles on skis. Skiing the Hourglass was a real highlight - steep skiing, on an improbable line and in a 'mad' environment! Weaving through crevasses and over snow bridges in poor visibility, on the way back to base camp was stressful but uneventful (I was a few hundred metres away from the ascent line, which by this stage was bare ice and not skiable).

Guy on the descent. | Photo Courtesy of Dream Guides

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Julia Niles

Julie Niles Climbing in Kalymnos Greece | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn and I were scheming and laughing that possibly we could travel somewhere to go sport climbing, rather than travel for our usual suffering on scary icy mountains when not stuck in the tent. It was a novel idea: to unwind from our recent years of guiding exams and cold adventures at the Island of Kalymnos. I thought she was a genius and I must admit I was dubious that it would all work. Now here I am inspired by the ridiculously steep climbing and silly tuffas while being soothed by the indulgent lifestyle. We wake to a swim in the morning. The light turns the world orange as we begin the day with Greek yogurt and Kalymnos honey. The crag is still cool in the early morning. The occasional drip from the tufas above remind you of the routes that make your belly turn. Like Priapus. This is an epic adventure. Thirty five meters of climbing some of the biggest tufas that allow you to sit on them to give your hands a rest. It is an epic journey requiring a whole hike to get back to your belayer when you get lowered. At 7c- it is sustained but if you can milk the rests...

Upon contemplation of this climb- the Grotto Goat shows up. Apparently this guy comes around often- and tends to leave his goat friends behind. He alone has befriended the climbers- wooed by banana peels and apple cores, this guy keeps the crag free of any food not well wrapped. And he does not blink at close contact with the necessary inconvenience- humans- that goes along with the food.

A Grotto goat befriended the climbers. | Photo by Julie Niles

The climbing here is outrageous. As soon as you can convince yourself that the exposure simply equates with safer falls- the rock is your playground. I love the rests- that seem to actually favor the traditional mountain climber types (like myself). There are tufa handjams, stemming, knee bars, back scums, and chimneys. For me- figuring them out is purely necessitated by need. But as soon as I figured out that the key to sending Trela or DNA or Sparticus is milking the rests because the climbing imbetween is far too steep- suddenly the grades melt to manageable journeys through tufa roofs.

Then, we are fueled by healthy and hearty local cuisine. I had been hunting for Moussaka at a few of the restaurants. Finally, last night I pinned down the waitress- asking for Moussaka (pronounced with great flair). I could not believe my taste buds- when all of my hopes of good food were blown out of the water. Cloves and sweet potatoes in a meet pie with eggplant, grape leaves, and cheese. It is rich enough to share and well worth ordering.

Today, we plan to go to a sink hole cave: apparently a stupendous geological wonder with some musical 7bs. Bring it on!

Julie Niles, a Lung Cancer Survivor
At age 25, Julia Niles was an accomplished climber--then a lung tumor threatened to ground her for good. She fought back, and has climbed even higher.
Read the article here.

Julie Niles | Photo by Heather Erson Photography

Mountain Hardwear held a visual merchandising contest for our Performance Elevated Retailers this October and encouraged them to get creative using Mountain Hardwear outerwear collections and fun props. The Grand Prize winner gets Mountain Hardwear jackets for their staff and all of our winners get bragging rights. Check out the winning displays...

Grand Prize - Diamond Brand Outdoors in Arden, NC Diamondbrand.com/

1st Place - Wild Iris Mountain Sports in Lander, WY | WildIrisclimbing.com

2nd Place - Beaver Sports in Fairbanks, AK | BeaverSports.com
3rd Place - Summit Hut in Tucson, AZ | SummitHut.com