by Dawn Glanc
I began climbing in 1996. Since that time, I have been 100% focused on and driven toward all aspects of climbing. I climbed every moment I could, never resting and constantly pushing myself toward my personal goals. I was so selfish in my pursuit of another opportunity to tie in. My self-centered lifestyles led me to skip many family gatherings and social events, often missing celebrations of special moments and occasions that are now lost in time. Climbing consumed my life so much that I made it my profession; I even married a climber and guide. My life over the past 18 years has been all about climbing.
[I have been competing at the Ouray Ice Festival since 2007. I find that my training time has changed through the years. I have less time to train, but I have found a way to make that time very productive.]
[Personal Day on the Talus Man. Leading the 2nd pitch of the Talus Man, Ouray CO.]
This past year I had a realization about where I had somehow, unknowingly, evolved as a climber. I looked at a calendar to make plans for training and road tripping, and found that my time to train and climb just for me has dwindled to almost nothing. Despite the fact that I am out all the time, I am working more and more. I am not out there to satisfy my climbing needs. I am not spending time on my projects and goals. Instead, I find that most of my time attached to a rope is for someone else, climbing the classics again and again, or belaying with endless patience. I enjoy my job and find great satisfaction in coaching and instructing other climbers to achieve unthinkable goals. At the end of the day, it is still work. Somewhere along this career path my selfish egocentric climbing lifestyle faded and I began to morph into less of a dirt bag and more of a professional.
[My husband Patrick and I out for personal day of climbing together. I am so grateful to share our time together in this way.]
Now, like most people, I struggle to find balance between work and play. Each day out is to be savored and filled with quality. I try to make the most of every day and no longer take for granted my time on routes I want to climb. I also see the value and appreciate time spent with special climbing partners. In my evolution I have been able to identify when it is important to take a day away from climbing to share rare moments with those I love. I don’t want to say that I am maturing as a climber, perhaps I am. I see now that it is not all about me, but about making everyday meaningful and memorable no matter what we do.
[Marin’s first climb. Indian Creek, UT.]