By John Garratt
The weather changed! A Pacific storm came in overnight and engulfed our tent in snow and prevented us moving higher up the glacier. It was not until late the next day we managed to move higher for a brief ski towards our objective, Mount Munday. It was then apparent that since we had stashed food and fuel far below for a quick dash to the summit that we did not have enough supplies to stay on the mountain and we would have to retreat.
Continue reading "The Two Day Shortcut" »
By Pearce Beissinger
We were just 3 guys who got together on a regular basis for hiking on the New Hampshire White Mountains. Jim, Tim, and Pearce (me) would get together to knock out our list of the New Hampshire 48 4000 footers. So many people had an opinion of our list, our reason for climbing and hiking, the conditions of the harsh winters, and attempted to make us justify our goals more concretely..... Mount Rainier became the answer. When I turned 30, my wife gave me the green light to pursue a big mountain. Rainier had been a life long dream and seemed like a world away from the soft confines of our icy white mountains in New Hampshire. My friends Jim and Tim hopped on board the wagon with me and we all of a sudden had even more reasons to continue our hikes and our gathering together.
Continue reading "Are we special? Are we different? Did we make a difference?...What is our mission?" »
By Dougald MacDonald
Most climbers have no idea how hard it is to do even modestly difficult routes while carrying a pack. 5.7? Beginners climb 5.7 on their first day on the rock. Grade 3 ice? C'mon...you don't even need two tools for that stuff. But throw a pack full of cooking and camping gear over your shoulders, and all of a sudden 5.7 WI3 takes on a harsh new meaning. Add an all-day approach to the start of the climb and you've got a powerful incentive to keep your load as light as possible.
I had been dreaming about trying the northwest face of Apache Peak for years. This 13,441-foot mountain is smack in the middle of Colorado's Indian Peaks Wilderness, about an hour west of downtown Boulder, USA. In the summer it swarms with hikers, and in May and June skiers and boarders carve up the steep couloirs on its eastern flank. But Apache's western slopes are another story. Reaching the remote Fair Glacier, on the backside of Apache, is not at all easy during the spring season, when the northwest face is likely to be in good nick. So....even more incentive to pack light.
Continue reading "Light is Right in the Indian Peaks" »