Hardwear Sessions

Marquis Perrilliat, son of Mountain Hardwear Employee Mark Perrilliat, is on the undefeated and unscored Berkeley Junior Bears Pop Warner football team which is featured in an ESPN story called, Choosing Between Death and Football.

The Junior Bears are undefeated and unscored on this year. | Photo by Tim Keown/ESPN.com

By Tim Keown
Say you drive by an old softball field next to an old schoolhouse like the one on the 6200 block of San Pablo Avenue in Oakland, Calif. There are a bunch of little kids out there in blue-and-gold football uniforms, 11 of them moving together like mercury under the dim lights. You glance over, maybe take a look until the traffic light turns green. Then you're gone.

But let's take a closer look. Park next to the playground, walk across the asphalt, through the infield dirt -- careful to tiptoe through the goose poop -- and onto the grass. See that guy in the blue-and-gold windbreaker and the blue-and-gold baseball cap and the huge smile? That's 47-year-old Todd Walker, the assistant coach of the Berkeley Junior Bears Pop Warner football team. You want to know what sports can do? Spend a few minutes listening to Coach Walker.

>>Read it here.

Mountain Hardwear gave out 10 itunes gift certificates for finding the Golden Nut! Join the hunt and win big, enter here.

Photograph by Matt Hage

Operation Denali, an expedition of wounded Iraq war veterans who, sponosored in part by Mountain Hardwear and our Expedition Sponsorship Program, put an assault on Denali in June with a team of 6 (including a few amputees), was honored today when the team leader, Marc Hoffmeister, was selected as a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year.

>>View Marc Hoffmeister photo gallery

June 1, 2009 - The Operation Denali team takes the "mandatory" pre-climb picture at the airfield in Talkeetna before departing for base camp. Front row, left to right: Marc Hoffmeister, Gayle Hoffmeister, Todd Tumolo, Dave Shebib, and Matt Nyman. Back row, left to right: Bob Haines, Jon Kuniholm, Matt Montavon, and Kirby Senden.

By David Roberts
It was April 2007. Serving in the U.S. Army in Iraq, Hoffmeister, then 37 years old, was riding in an Army Humvee. The troops were on patrol outside Al Hillah when an IED tore their vehicle to shreds. "I knew I was badly hurt," Hoffmeister says today. "I was staring through a large hole in my left arm. I couldn't feel anything. I couldn't hear." Hoffmeister was evacuated to a hospital in Germany, then sent on a 29-hour "hell flight" home. Eight surgeries on his arm followed, and months of pain-racked convalescence. Then the depression set in. Though back in his hometown of Eagle River, Alaska, Hoffmeister felt completely at loose ends. "I was just on the couch, doing nothing," he says.

>>Read the Story here

2010 Applications are due November 15th! The Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship Program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. Download the 2010 Application Here

It's November already and that means the Fall Sample Sale is almost upon us!!!

Find the Golden Nut!

Mountain Hardwear fans know the Nut stands for adventure, so we thought we'd add a little adventure to your Web wanderings too. When you find the Golden Nut in a banner ad, it's your chance to win instantly! For those who seek adventure, the Golden Nut awaits. To enter visit Find the Golden Nut.

Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear on Cathedral Peak

Listen to the recording of 106.1 FM The Corner Monday morning "Get Moving Charlottesville" segment with Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear. He talks about staying active despite such a busy career and position.

Go to: 1061 thecorner.com scroll down the page and you will see Mike's interview "Get Moving Charlottesville".

Mountain Hardwear held a visual merchandising contest for our Performance Elevated Retailers this October and encouraged them to get creative using Mountain Hardwear outerwear collections and fun props. The Grand Prize winner gets Mountain Hardwear jackets for their staff and all of our winners get bragging rights. Check out the winning displays...

Grand Prize - Diamond Brand Outdoors in Arden, NC Diamondbrand.com/

1st Place - Wild Iris Mountain Sports in Lander, WY | WildIrisclimbing.com

2nd Place - Beaver Sports in Fairbanks, AK | BeaverSports.com
3rd Place - Summit Hut in Tucson, AZ | SummitHut.com

Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise - Greek island of Kalymnos
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

The Island of Kalymnos is known for amazing limestone climbing. There are multiple walls to choose from. Long slabs, slightly overhanging walls and deep caves are abundant. What intrigues most climbers are the tufas. A Tufa is like a stalactite; which is formed from the calcite and silica deposits that drip from the rock. The Tufas come in all shapes and sizes. Some are small rounded blobs, what climbers may call chicken heads. Other Tufas resemble flowstone. My favorite type of Tufa is the long icicle looking formations that hang from the rock faces and drip down from the caves. Typically the tufas are awesome positive holds, what we refer to as jugs.

Some amazing limestone climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

The Tufa climbing requires a climber to think outside the box. The climbing is three-dimensional and requires the climber not only to look up, but also all around. A giant Tufa may be hanging just behind and out of your peripheral view, providing a stem move to relieve the over hanging nature of the climb. My favorite is the Tufa hug, which allows a no hands rest as you sit, straddle or hug the formation. These crazy no hands rests allow the 35-meter overhanging cave routes to be possible. This may be the wildest rock climbing that I have ever encountered. It makes me feel like a kid on a jungle gym, and I love it.

Challenging three-dimensional climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn's Tufa hug | Photo by James Q Martin

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

In late August, my friends, Mike and Pat O'Donnell, and I arrived in Wyoming to climb the Grand Teton. The Tetons are an icon of the Rockies, rising up abruptly from the Wyoming grassland and piercing the sky with sharp granite teeth. At 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of the steepest and most technical peaks in the lower 48 states and has been on my list for many years. It is the place where many mountaineering legends learned their trade to challenge peaks around the world.

Erik approaches belay guides | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Not long after we arrived in Jackson, WY, we encountered two friendly faces. On a ferry across Jenny Lake en route to a practice climb, we ran into longtime friends, Kelly and her husband Craig Perkins. To add to the irony, two weeks earlier, I ran into Kelly and Craig at the base of another rock face while training near San Jacinto peak in California. Kelly, a hero of mine, was the recipient of a heart transplant in 1995 after a severe virus destroyed her own heart. They have climbed all over the world, from the infamous face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California (of course, the Heart Route) to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, championing the cause of organ and tissue donation. In 2001, Kelly stunned her doctors by climbing 19,340-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa.

On this most recent trip, Kelly and Craig set out to complete the Grand Traverse, a classic route that reaches ten summits along the Teton Range. Kelly enlisted seven cardiac nurses from the Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center to join her on a portion of the climb. The project, aptly named "Stand on the Grand for Organ and Tissue Donation, " taught the nurses about the excertional demands of climbing on the heart, and served as an inspiration for heart patients as well. Most importantly, the climb helped to promote Craig and Kelly's campaign for organ donations.The New York Times published an outstanding article on Kelly's climb, NYTimes.com

Pat Odonnell and Erik Weihenmayer Belay | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

After the chance meeting in Wyoming, our teams climbed accordion style to a spectacular finish on the Guide's Wall. We all rappelled down just in time to avoid being drenched by the usual afternoon thunderstorms. Then, our two teams parted ways as Mike, Pat and I prepared for our attempt of the Petzl Ridge on the Grand.

Erik Weihenmayer and Pat Odonnell ascending. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

When we awoke the following day, five inches of snow had fallen on the Grand Teton, adding to a foot of snow which had fallen the previous week. We decided to push ahead to the Moraine bivy site in Garnet Canyon, the staging area for an assault on the upper flanks. The weather was chilly as we ascended the lower section of the mountain, crossing scree fields of frozen and slippery rock. As we reached the technical climbing on the Petzl Ridge, we encountered ferocious winds. We climbed with down jackets, fleece hats, and gloves, not at-all typical for August. Although the weather improved marginally with the sun beginning to peek from the clouds, the wind was still painfully cold but we pushed ahead on ice-covered rock. Pat remarked sarcastically that it was "great weather for rock shoes!" As we gained altitude, the elements became more challenging as we struggled up frozen rock with minimal gear. Spirits dampened some as a climber above us fell ten feet and landed on his back, narrowly avoiding a fatal accident, we simul-climbed the last 1,500 feet (a technique by which rope teams ascend together while placing rock protection between them). At 2:30 PM, our team of three reached the now snow-covered summit block. Accompanied by Mike and Pat, I became the first blind person to stand atop the Grand Teton. Sixteen hours after beginning, we fell into our sleeping bags exhausted, but satisfied from a marvelous adventure.

Kelly Perkins has recently released her book, The Climb of My Life, Scaling Mountains with a Borrowed Heart. View more information at: www.craigandkelly.com/ordercandkbook.htm

Summit of Grand Teton! | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Oct 20,2009
Climbers News found on MountEverest.net

Himalaya wrap-up: Nepal 7000ers action
Robert Jasper has left his regular playground on the Eiger's north face and showed up in Nepal (MountEverest.net) While Nepal and Tibet's 8000ers are virtually deserted, action continues on smaller peaks such as Baruntse, Pumori and Ama Dablam, less affected by the high winds of the jet stream.

Current expeditions on Nepal's peaks
Simone Moro mentioned earlier that the Anthamatten brothers we going for Jasemba (7350 m), Robert Jasper was aiming for Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cholatse, and Tomaz Humar was also in place - all choosing Nepalese projects due the closure of Tibet imposed by the communist regime.

Besides several teams currently on popular Ama Dablam, some commercial expeditions are launching summit bids on other 6000/7000 meters peaks in Nepal.

A team outfitted by SummitClimb is training on Mera Peak befre attempting Baruntse. Tim Rippel's Peak Freaks team is advancing on Pumori. "Sherpas Jangbu, Tashi, Paulden and Kaji did more carries up to Camp 1 today so it is just about complete," Tim wrote yesterday. "Tomorrow we will climb up again to ABC but this time we will stay the night to allow everyone to adjust to the new altitude, then retreat to BC the next day."

"Mt. Pumori is rarely climbed and in particular the route we have been pioneering since 1998, not the standard route but the South Ridge," Tim explained. "We used to do training on Ama Dablam but it doesn't sit well with us anymore."

EAST BAY, SF and TAHOE folks - Mountain Hardwear Sponsored, Powderwhore is rolling through this weekend on their tour for "Flakes", their newest ski porn flick. All shows have been packed. Check it out!

Friday 10/23 - 7pm - Sports Basement - 1590 Bryant St in San Francisco (6-7pm is happy hour w/ free beer and wine)
Saturday 10/24 - 7pm - Sawtooth Ridge Cafe - Tahoe City

More info: www.powderwhore.com
Tour Dates here

View tour images here

Day One In Rock Climbing Paradise
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

Paradise! | Photo by James Q Martin

After a long and arduous guiding season, I wanted some island living. Warm weather, short approaches, and light backpacks is what I had been dreaming of while slogging on the glaciers. It was the simple life and the idea of traveling around the island on scooters that called to me. Finally, after a few months of planning, my dream of sport climbing near the Mediterranean came true.

The beautiful Greek island of Kalymnos | Photo by James Q Martin

Yesterday Pat Ormond and I arrived on the Greek island of Kalymnos. As we flew in we could see that the island, was covered in amazing limestone cliffs. Beautiful walls lined the coast and met the sapphire blue water of the Mediterranean. As we traveled to our hotel we passed many steep caves with crazy tufas of all sizes. The cliffs called to us like we were little kids at the playground.

After surviving the taxi ride through the narrow crowded streets, we arrived at the Hotel Philoxenia and were greeted by Nicolas, our very gracious host. The locations of our accommodations are awesome. The hotel is at the base of the Grande Grotto, one of the most inspiring caves that we have seen so far. As we entered our hotel room, we were taken back by our view of the sea. It seemed that we had found a climbers' paradise.

Dawn arriving at Hotel Philoxenia. | Photo by James Q Martin

MHW Fan Becomes the First Turkish Woman to Summit Aconcagua
By Gulnur Tumbat, Assistant Professor at SFSU

Gulnur Tumbat at the top of Aconcagua | Photo Courtesy of Gulnur Tumbat

I am an academic and I love my job. One problem however is that during the Falls and Springs of every year, or in other words, during the climbing seasons in the Himalayas, I have to be at school teaching my undergrad and MBA students. There are always sabbaticals to go back to Himalayas, but only every 7 years. It can be challenging. That leaves winters and summers for my research and travels. It was one of those "I can't breath" moments when I started to plan my last winter. I needed to take a break from writing. The choice was easy: it was climbing season in South America. So, I contacted a few friends whom I like to hang out and who are good climbing partners. Job issues and other commitments was a problem so no one was going to be able to make it. After reading many legitimate climbing reports and after talking to my guide friends, I got a feeling that I may be able to climb Aconcagua solo. I put together my itinerary, went over my gear, upgraded some and I was ready. It may sound like a 10-minute preparation but it stretched out over months. Oh, I have been climbing for 15+ years, train outdoors pretty intense, and more importantly I consider myself having the right attitude and understanding of what it takes to climb big mountains. This is not a place for a climbing resume (well mine is way too short to mention on a website like this one anyway) and you don't know me as a person, so this is all I can tell you about my background if you are wondering who I am. I find myself lucky that I also get to combine what I love to do with my job, that is my climbing and my research on risk marketing and risk consumption. I use high-altitude climbing expeditions as my context - not just by reading about them but by being part of the actual experience (the best way of learning!). There is still not enough experience, not enough knowledge, and not enough skills, but one has to go out, climb, and play more to improve and learn more, right?

October 11, 2009
Expedition Complete.

Now in Kathmandu sorting, cleaning and repairing equipment before finding a flight back to Australia and the 'real world'.

Neil and I are still pretty tired and the stairs at the hotel are a challenge in themselves but its good to be eating real food and getting the odd hot shower.

Thankyou to all who've sent Neil and I congratulatory messages. I didn't realise there were so many following our progress and my apologies for not responding directly to everyone, yet. It means a lot though, so thanks.

I've received a few requests for specifics about the route we climbed -whether it was the '80s Austrian route or the '00s Inaki route. I think it might have been a combination of both. I think the Austrians traversed the north face above a large serac band whilst Inaki went below. We also went below. From there I'm not too sure which line the various parties took. We went to the left of the 3 fingers of rock that rise from around 7700 metres to 7800 metres, and from there went straight up to the summit ridge. Then along/up the ridge to the top. Those who care can fight over the 'name' of the route. We just enjoyed the climb.

Climbing Shisha was more than just reaching the top of an 8000er for me. It was the final peak in my quest to climb all fourteen of the 8000ers and it was also the first Austalian ascent of that mountain's true summit. So it was a lot of reward for a tough climb and the experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it. I think the bivy on the way down was Shisha's way of letting us know that we'd been 'allowed' the summit but shouldn't get too cocky about it.

Of course, whilst it was Neil and I doing the physical work on this climb, there was a lot of support in the background. Many thanks to Robin Boustead, Judy Smith and Jamie McGuiness for very valuable weather information, and the following organisations for high quality equipment and sponsorship, without which the climb would have been much more difficult and dangerous:
Mountain Hardwear
Gore-tex
Outdoor Life Group - Sydney
Trek and Travel - Sydney
Fisherman's Friend
Spelean (Sydney) & Petzl
Australian Geographic
Millet
World Expeditions

Sooooo, have I finished with 8000 metre climbing? No. I have at least one more climb I'd like to do next year in the pre-monsoon season. Details to be announced later. So stay tuned and thankyou all again for your support and good wishes.

Andrew

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

It's close... will Team Mountain Hardwear win the tug of war?

Visit Water Stone Outdoors to see more action.

2010 Applications are due November 15th!

Greenland Ev Direct tent | Photo by Josh Helling

The Mountain Hardwear sponsorship program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. Download the 2010 Application Here

Sorry for being out of contact. Since our summit day the weather has been appalling with consequent lack of solar power.

October 8, 2009 - 17.20
THE DETAILS...

Based on the forecast and our reading of conditions, Neil and I decided to try for a summit on 2 October. We set off on 29 September for Camp 1 and up to C3 on 1 October at 7400 metres.

Other teams were trying only for the Central (false) summit but we'd come for the real summit and decided on a variation of the 'Inaki' route, which would have us climb further east on the North face than Inaki's line. We hoped it would give us steep but direct access to the summit ridge.

On the 2nd we set off at 5am from camp 3 and traversed across the broad north face to position ourselves under the route we wanted to climb. The snow on the face was mucher deeper than we'd hoped for, making it harder climbing with greater avalanche risk but still achievable if all went well.

Although we wanted to hit the top around midday, the deep snow and long route delayed us and the weather deteriorated through the day, making it a race for the top. It was absolutely exhausting breaking trail in deep soft snow but we finally hit the summit ridge at 4pm.

We then had a razor sharp ridge to traverse before sneaking along the face underneath some chunky ice cornices. This was the most dangerous part as the cornices threatened from above whilst with every step we set off small avalanches.

Finally however we hit the top at 5.05pm in swirling cloud, snapped a couple of pics then raced as fast as we could back down the ridge to our route on the face.

We downclimbed in darkness trying to beat the encroaching storm but it caught us. Our tracks were covered and headlamps rendered useless in the falling snow, so we decided the safest though very unpleasant option was to bivouac on an ice ledge we cut with our axes. No tent, stove, sleeping bags etc, so we sat on our packs for a little insulation.

The biggest fear was being caught by oedema or high winds. Luckily neither happened. It snowed on us through the night and it was bitterly cold ( -20 to -30 C) but we made it through.

At 5.30am it was light enough to see the way, so we downclimbed to c3, arriviving about 8.30 am.

The first thing to do was radio basecamp and let them know we were alive, then we melted snow to rehydrate as we'd only had 500ml each to drink in the previous 27 hours and were terribly dehydrated from all the climbing in the very cold dry air.

Later in the morning we packed up C3 and started the descent to abc, which took 2 days to complete.

That about sums it up. One more dispatch to follow now that I have power again.

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Oct 4, 2009 - 15:50
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Did it! Summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, 2nd October, with Neil Ward.

Very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face, caught in a storm on descent with an open bivouac at 7600 metres without equipment thrown in for good measure.

Just into basecamp now, bit tired, more later.

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

September 28,2009
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

Standing guard over one of the world's most populated cities, the volcanoes overlooking Mexico City are shrouded in the mystery and allure of the legends of their ancient past. This November, Erik will lead a team of blind and sighted students on an expedition to these infamous peaks.

As the legend goes, the volcanoes of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl were created from the tragic love of the Aztec princess Iztaccíhuatl and the warrior Popocatépetl. These magnificent peaks were formed by Popo's fiery emotion and immortalized in Itza's womanly shape. From a distance, Itza forms the outline of a woman lying on her back. Although few have explored their broad talus and snow slopes up close, they have a beauty, a history and a palpable presence which transcend their stunning visual prominence. Combining an unlikely team of blind and sighted young adults from Mexico and the United States, it will be an extraordinary journey of leadership, discovery and adventure. For this expedition, Global Explorers has partnered their nationally recognized Leading the Way program with the Mexican nonprofit Ojos que Sienten. Their goal: to reach the higher limits of 17,159-foot Iztaccíhuatl and, in the process, to break down barriers and misperceptions about disabilities. This trip is made possible through the support of numerous sponsors, including Unilever. Thanks to the generosity of Fundación Televisa and Fundación Cinépolis, an eye operation will be donated for every participant who reaches the summit.

Students Alysha Jeans and Andrew Johnson check out the ruins of Machu Picchu on Erik's 2006 trip with Global Explorers to the Super Inca Trail. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

A Winter Jacket That Charges Your Gadgets

October 2, 2009
By Rik Fairlie

Available in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket | Photo Courtesy of New York Times Blog

Yep, that's right. Reach into the front left pocket and you'll find a power adapter that enables you to charge your iPod, digital camera, GPS device or cellphone -- no matter if you're riding a mountain bike or roaming snowy city streets. The heating and power capabilities are made possible by the addition of rechargeable lithium-ion battery and heating system developed by Ardica Technology.

Read more on New York Times Gadgetwise Blog.

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Jon Bowermaster. Read more on his Blog

Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

Often by the time the mainstream media runs big stories about an environmental battle it's often too late. I've seen it up-close dozens of times during the past couple decades and have reported so many David-versus-Goliath stories - usually positing good-hearted indigenous peoples and international environmental groups against greedy, monolithic utility companies and strong-arming government agents - that the stories have almost become fill-in-the-blanks. (Just change the name of the indigenous tribe, the utility company and the country and the story - and outcome - are usually very similar.)

Yet despite ominous recent headlines in the Wall Street Journal ("Galapagos Under Siege"), the Times ("Can Darwin's Lab Survive Success") and UK's Independent ("Tourism, Over-Population and Overfishing Have Become the Blight of the Galapagos"), I happen to believe that the Ecuadorian archipelago will survive (even if more and more of its endemic creatures may not) and flourish. In some respects, as the standard bearer for the planet's evolutionary history, it simply must. As Alex Hearn, a marine biologist with the Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz Island told us about the Galapagos future, "if we can't get it right here, where can we?" A microcosm of the planet's wildlife, if the Galapagos loses its wildness it will feel like the end is near for the rest of our wild places.

Given my interest in man's relationship with the sea, it was hard not to go to the Galapagos for a first-hand look at exactly how we are impacting this once truly special place. Spurred by comments by the Ecuadorian president ("the Galapagos are at great risk") and UNESCO, which first declared the Galapagos a world heritage site and has now put it on an "in danger" list, we took video cameras and digital recorders and came back with a story not so much about the incredible biodiversity of its wildlife but about how man is wrestling with his presence there.

Jon Bowermaster filming in Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

The film we've made - "What Would Darwin Think?" - is nearly complete; in advance of that I wanted to share some of the stories, photos and videos brought back from several weeks of conversations and poking around.

According to a recent report by the Darwin Foundation, "Galápagos at Risk" the islands' crisis does not just stem from an unprecedented rise in tourism, but also from a change in the marketplace. "Early tourism in the Galápagos was characterized by nature-loving tourists," the report said, seeking "to learn about Darwin and see the amazing species that helped him to develop his theory of evolution." It noted that these guests were "easily accommodated by smaller, locally owned tour operators."

But, the study continued, the market expanded to include "eco-tourists," who also like to visit places like Machu Picchu, the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, Easter Island and the Great Barrier Reef. These tourists are "often more selective in terms of required comfort and is better served by multinational tour operators," the report said.

A consequence has been that local owners cannot compete with the foreign-run companies doing business in the Galápagos. Of the $418 million generated by tourism annually, only $63 million is estimated to enter the local economy. And of the 80 tourism boats allowed to operate in the Galápagos, only about 40 percent are locally owned. "We have to think about the people and not just the plants and animals, or it will all collapse," the report concluded.

Galapagos Clip 1

While Sea Sheperd's chief cheerleader and trouble-inspirer Paul Watson is holding forth from his ship, The Farley Mowat, continuing its chase of Japanese whale hunters off Antarctica and (recently) being arrested on a thirty-year-old warrant in Portugal (where he had gone to attend a meeting of the International Whaling Commission) ... the Washington state-based environmental group's second-most visible campaign is ongoing, in the Galapagos.

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

Climbing to Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Back into ABC on Friday afternoon after a worthwhile acclimatisation climb to camp 2, where we slept for the night at 6750 metres.

Neil and Kinga in Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

We deposited a tent, food, stoves, gas, rope and other climbing gear in readiness for our return. With camp 1 and camp 2 both now stocked, our next push will be for the summit.

Saturday and Sunday were spent eating and sleeping, and yesterday saw my second wash since arriving at the mountain.

And the winner is... | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Mmm, speaking of things savoury, yesterday also saw the big 'taste off' between my vegemite and Neil's evil marmite. A range of Sherpas, Tibetans and climbers were invited to participate, wth Vegemite the undisputed winner. (basecamp amusement.)

A small but strong international team of climbers made a summit push yesterday but were unsuccessful in traversing from the central summit to the main summit. This is where i've also been stopped on previous attempts.

My team's plan is to attempt to traverse from camp 3 to another ridge on the north face which cuts out the central summit and provides direct access to the main summit but it is long, crevassed and difficult climbing, so we know we'll have our work cut out for us.

We are fit and motivated and the wrather appears to be holding, so we'll start the summit push tomorrow. If all goes well, we're hoping to summit on 2 October.

Next report won't be until the 3rd or 4th. Wish us luck please.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Makalu | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Yesterday, Thursday September 24, 2009, Ueli Steck summited 8463 meter high Makalu over the normal route. The Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It lies easterly of Mount Everest at the border between Nepal and China.

Together with Robert Bösch he started on September 24 at 3 o'clock in the morning from camp 3 at 7350 meters. A lot of snow was lying. Robert Bösch returned at an altitude of approximately 7900 meters.

At about 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the same day Ueli Steck reached the summit. He descended the same day to camp 3 at 7350 meters.

Today, September 25, 2009 they were back at base camp of Makalu.

Royce Hughes | Photo Courtesy of YES

Click here to watch the 10th Annicersary Video.

Contact YES:
2811 Macdonald Ave.
Richmond, CA 94804
(510) 232-3032
info@yesfamilies.org
Join the mailing list here.

Mountain Hardwear Gives Back to YES
Thanks to daily website visits and clicks, supporters helped raise $3,500 through Mountain Hardwear's Gives Back Program this past spring. Along with contributions from other foundations and donors, YES sent 270 low-income youth to summer camp in 2009. Click here to read more about how YES and Mountain Hardwear are partnering to make a difference in the community.

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Sunday, September 20, 2009 - Makalu base camp

"The snow on the monsoon was 30 centimeters high in the vertical passages of the wall." | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

While I am writing these lines, I am sitting here, at 5250 meters over sea at Makalu base camp. Over me, the summit of Makalu, 8463 meters high. Exactly 3213 meters lie between me and my wishful dream.

Exactly one week ago I was at the foot of the west pillar. At 6700 meter I installed a camp. Fully motivated, I wanted to complete this project. I am very well prepare for it. In the morning at 3 o'clock I started to climb. I was so sure: "Steck will now climb the west pillar. Solo and without fix ropes to the summit." But then everything was different. The considerable amounts of fresh snow showed me clearly where my limits were. But I fought. I did not give up. It' not me to say so fast, that it doesn't work. I know exactly if I don't get everything out of it for myself or if I cancel the whole thing and then sit in my warm living-room, I would feel ashamed for this!

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 22, 2009 - 12:25

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

The weather continues to hold at Shisha and our fingers remain crossed for more of the same.

On the 20th, Kinga and I climbed to camp 1 at 6250 metres. It was a blisteringly hot day and the hundreds of jagged ice pinnacles at the start of the climb added to the challenge as we searched for a route over and around them to access the easier glacier on the far side.

Route finding in the pinnacles. | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Then followed a long slog up to the camp site, which we reached after about 7 hours climbing from abc. There are quite a few crevasses at that point and we exposed a big one whilst digging for a tent site, so found a more consolidated location before setting up house and moving in. A bit of an uncomfortable night followed as the altitude tested our resolve but a few ibuprofens later the sun finally rose. That was just an acclimatisation night, so we packed up and dropped down to ABC yesterday for some proper sleep.

Washing and general domestics today but tomorrow the game continues. We'll head back up the hill with more food and equipment, sleep again at camp 1 before pushing up to camp 2 at around 6800 metres. One or two nights there before returning to ABC in a few days time will hopefully complete our acclimatisation before the summit push.

ABC - hard to find good help! | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Dougald MacDonald, past editor in chief of Rock & Ice, regular contributor to Men's Journal, Outside, Backpacker, and more likes our Runout Pants.

"Mountain Hardwear Runout climbing pants. Super-comfortable. Fit well under a harness. Look good enough to wear out to dinner--at least until you smear them with chalk and aluminum grime from your rope."
- Dougald MacDonald's Blog, themountainworld.blogspot.com

The Runout Pant has a Crag™ Canvas Body that is 100% cotton canvas. Heavy duty, durable cotton canvas "breaks in" beautifully with time and washing. Pigment dyed, peached face. 8.5 oz/yd2.

• Lots of pockets for storage
• Adjustable drawcord hidden inside hem to cinch pant leg
• UPF 50 sun protection
• Integrated webbing belt with buckle closure for easy fit adjustments
• Durable canvas fabric great for day cragging
• Inseam gusset and articulated knees for mobility
>>Where to buy

By Sean McDevitt Mountain Hardwear Design

Sean McDevitt lined up amongst the top riders at start of the Tahoe Sierra 100 | Photo by Annie Larkin

Bike racing is my vehicle for self exploration. In the spirit of this, I lined up at the start line of the Tahoe Sierra 100. 7 a.m. at Ice Lakes Lodge in Soda Springs, CA, I was queued up behind Tinker Juarez and regional pro strong men Dez Wilder and Kevin Smallman. Amidst whistle blows, camera flashes and much clapping, about 200 of us hurtled down the rocky and technical Soda Springs fire-road. While riding in the top 30 going into the descent, I wound my way through the pack as I warmed up to my Cannondale Scalpel. About 2 miles into a ripping descent, I flatted, pulled off and quickly fixed the flat as countless racers whizzed past me on a loamy switch back. Back on my bike I quickly spun my way through the red platted 50 milers until I flatted again and my heart sank. I hailed down a 50 miler to borrow a pump. I quickly patched a tube, pumped it up but it wouldn't hold. Thankfully, I told the racer to go on. I realized my day was done and sadly started walking back up the hill to the start and finish. This was not the day I hoped for. After a few minutes I ran into Sean Allan, running sweep on his Cannondale Rizer bike. He had tubes, CO2 and a pump. My day was saved. Even though I was an hour behind everyone, I was determined to have at least a bit of fun. After pumping my rear tire up to 50 psi I rode off.

My game was on, doing 2 wheel drifts through every corner. After maybe 20 minutes of ripping through the Sierras my rear tire washed out in left hander. Back up in seconds I pedaled furiously, determined to do something. Eventually, I found riders and passed them on a good grunt of a climb and then descended into sweet single-track of Red Star Ridge. I got a little full of myself on the descent until my front wheel ego check about ½ way down. I counted at least 3 times I said out loud "Jesus Christ Jim" as I slid past downed tree stumps at high speed.

Soon I shot onto a paved road and then to a gruesome fire-road climb but was rewarded with amazing swoopy water-barred single track of the Western States Trail. I was surprised how much technical single track there was. It was super fast, super fun but technical enough that you felt things could go terribly wrong if you weren't on your game. It is an interesting head game when you are 50ish miles out, you've flatted 3 times, wrecked twice, killed one squirrel and you know you are only half way through your day. The remainder of the ride was a blur of technical single-track, endless fire-road climbing, great views, aid stations filled with cool people, and great food. Although I finished well behind of what I wanted, I had a great day and wouldn't take it back for anything.

Tinker Juarez crushing it! | Photo by Annie Larkin

Dez Wilder comes in 7th. | Photo by Annie Larkin

Sean McDevitt survives the day. | Photo by Annie Larkin

"Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face | Photo by Frank Kretschmann

THE JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA ON THE EIGER NORTH FACE HAS FINALLY BEEN FREED BY ROBERT JASPER AND ROGER SCHÄLI.
The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (GER) and Roger Schäli (CH) managed to finally free climb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.

Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli | Photo by Robert Jasper

Written by Mountain Hardwear Athlete Robert Jasper

For six years the Eiger and the project of redpointing the Japanese Route kept me in. Over and over again my friend Roger Schäli and myself tried to climb the two by then well known crux sections, the "Difficult Crack" and "Rote Fluh".

The "Rote Fluh" is the steepest, most difficult and most rejecting part of the entire Eiger North Face. Our final goal was to free the entire Japaner-Diretissima which heads right through the "Rote Fluh". Now - precisely timed for the 40th anniversary of the historical route which was ascended first in 1969 - we finally succeeded.

Robert Jasper | Photo by Franz Walter

JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA
1. First ascent: 15. 07- 15.08.1969
Imai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Kubo, Amano 6,A2, 1800m
1.free ascent redpoint, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli
28.-31.08.2009 8a, M5, (10- UIAA); 1800m
Route Characteristics
- Many pitons from the Japanese Expedition Team throughout the "Rote Fluh" face
- "Rote Fluh": very good rockquality here.
- Heavy rockfall danger at the second icefeeld
- Very challenging alpine climbing with very little protection (often times bad rock quality)
- Most protections have to be placed by the climbers themselves
Minimum Equipement
- 1 set of friends und rocks
- 6 pitons including knifeblades
- 2-3 icescrews and iceclimbing gear
- 60 meter ropes and bivac equipement

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 17, 2009 - 09:23

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Apologies for no contact - technology issues. (Thought i'd escaped the office but alas...)

Anyway, good news. The climbing permit was granted on time and we crossed the border into Tibet on 10 September.

After a night at Xangmu we drove up the Friendship highway to Nyalam early on Friday morning to avoid the ongoing roadworks along the way. A huge amount of work has been done since my last visit to this area with smooth bitumen making the journey quick and painless.

We spent 2 nights in Nyalam for acclimatization as the the town is situated just below 4000 metres. On our first day we climbed nearby hills to 4650 m and on the second to 5000 m to push the acclimatisation process a little.

On the 13th we drove to Chinese basecamp at an altitude of 5000 metres where we camped for 3 nights before trekking to advance basecamp yesterday. ABCis 5600 metres.

Whilst in Chinese bc, Carlos Pauner, an old friend from Kanchenjunga in 2003, arrived by horse from advance basecamp after falling from rocks and breaking several ribs when climbing to camp 1 a few days ago. For him the climbing season is over.

For us the expedition is just beginning and we are keen to get onto the mountain. We've all picked up headcolds and other ailments from passing through rather squalid villages but hope to have these under control soon.

Puja ceremony tomorrow and possibly onto the hill the next day.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Monday, September 14 - Makalu base camp

Ueli Steck.mp3

The voice record is in Swiss German. The following is the translation:

I left BC to Makalu west pillar on Saturday morning at 00.30 am. I ascended directly to my small tent at 6700 meters. Basically it is more of an overstepping than an ascent. The way to the actual west pillar passes over the two Jumeaux. Two summits: one of 6220 meters, then down and over the second one of 6462 meters before coming to the Makalu. A long way with a 20 kg heavy backpack. For the trek to my tent I needed a solid 9 hours. Tired from the long ascent, I arrived a little late for mid-morning snack to my camp. The tent still looked out the snow. I had my doubts that I would ever find it again after the heavy snowfall of last week. For the time being I was happy to find everything intact.

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Amelia McAndrew walking into the Mountain Hardwear Office located at Ford Point in Richmond, CA | Photo by Roland Dare

Jon Bowermaster reporting in, from Moorea, on the scene of first ever surfing IMAX 3D filming currently being shot in Tahiti and French Polynesia.

Ultimate Wave Tahiti Inside Look - Kelly Slater

Wait until you see these IMAX 3D images of Kelly Slater and Raimana van Bastolaer surfing out of the tube at Tahiti's Teahupo'o - arguably the wildest, most dangerous, most perfect surf wave on the planet - projected eighty feet high on a giant screen near you (coming, February 2010). In Moorea and Tahiti I had a peek at some of the rushes dumped onto a fifteen-inch computer screen and literally had to step back from even that small screen, overwhelmed by the real feel of Raimana - Tahiti's godfather of surfing - jumping to his feet on the board, peeking back over this shoulder to judge the whereabouts of a monstrous roller heading towards him, the splash of the clear-blue South Pacific washing over the lens and the grim/exultant look on his face as he realizes he's successfully up and not going to get washing-machined by a fifty-foot wave. Look for my story about the 'making of' surfing's first IMAX 3D film - Ultimate Wave Tahiti - in December's National Geographic Adventure and I imagine for a trailer soon at the Stephen Low Company's website.

"That may be the greatest shot I've ever made!" says an exuberant Stephen Low as he clambers onto the Zodiac, followed closely by his 145-pound IMAX 3D camera in its gold-tinted waterproof housing. We are bobbing in mild seas just off Moorea, the island I nominate as the most beautiful in French Polynesia, spending a long, glorious day whale watching.

Shot entirely in HD, this hour long showcase of last winters adventures travels from Patagonia, The Wasatch Mountains, Haines, Valdez, The San Juans and Aspen. For tour dates, to pre-order DVD's, and to view the trailer visit www.powderwhore.com

For more information contact Noah@powderwhore.com (801-647-9071)

The Beta - Six Feet Under
By Andrew Kornylak

The Beta - Six Feet Under from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

FiveTen climber Brion Voges of Chattanooga, Tennessee drops the beta on "Six Feet Under" (V5), and "Instinct" (V7), two classic lines at The Stone Fort, near Chattanooga - the last leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series.

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

September 1, 2009 - Arrival at base camp (5250 meters above sea level)

A humid and wet trek to basecamp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Finally we reached the foot of the mountain. The last 10 days of trekking was not always very comfortable. The monsoon is still fully in his element. It was a humid and wet trek. Luckily the bloodsucker didn't bother us too much. I arrived at base camp with five of them.

Today we installed us here at 5250 meters. Part of our equipment is still at 4745 meters. The last stage of the trek takes you over the Barun glacier. For this ascent we have seven Sherpas who help us to carry up our material. These are about ten loads of 25 kg which have to be carried to the base camp.

For Robert, Andy and me the phase of acclimatisation starts. Röbi and Andy will try the route which was first ascended in 1955. My plan is still to go for the west pillar solo, alpine style. Much will depend on the conditions and the weather. We will not be the first ones to fail but our motivation is big. We are looking forward to the time at the mountain. First of all we will install ourselves properly at BC and enjoy a couple of days of rest. Kaji, our cook will spoil us with his culinary skills.

Robert Bösch and Andy Wälchli relaxing at base camp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

At the moment the weather forecast is quite unstable. This was predictable. We intentionally left early. The weather should get more stable by mid September. Until then we will have to accept the humidity of the monsoon. In the meantime our bodies will have time to adjust to the altitude. As soon as the weather gets steady, we will be ready to move higher. From mid October the winds at 8000 meters are mostly too strong to have a chance to summit. We hope to summit Makalu between mid September and mid October.

We hope for the best!

Photo Courtesy of Scott Harrison

Carlos Toste, a member of the Mountain Hardwear Warranty family, is in Tibet for two weeks to help rebuild an elementary school. As you can see, the kids can't wait for Carlos! They are all very excited about their new school.

Ardica is the leading developer of miniaturized portable power systems. Their latest introduction, the Moshi Power System, generates 40W of power from a lightweight, flexible and portable planar array of lithium ion batteries. This system can power and charge a wide variety of electronic devices while simultaneously delivering comforts like heat and sound to garments, bags and more. Find out more about the contest here.

Mountain Hardwear uses this device to heat your core and charge your electronics. This technology is found in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket.

Pat Deavoll writes, from her perspective, an account of her Karim Sar(6189m) ascent.

On June 5th 2009 Paul Hersey and I arrived in Islamabad to discover security in the city at an all time high. Soldiers with AK47's, roadblocks and a wary population had emptied the streets and our anxious guide Baig (Nazir Sabir Expeditions) saw us as a potential target for every kidnapper, suicide bomber and insurgent in Central Asia. He wouldn't let us out of his sight.

We drove north up the Karakoram Highway against an endless tide of refugees fleeing the Swat Valley, Baig breathing a nervous sigh of relief when we reach the relative safety of Gilgit. Three days later we were ensconced at basecamp beside the Shilinbar Glacier, under the south face of Karim Sar. The face was a confusing mass of steep snow slopes, hanging glaciers and granite rock bands culminating in the summit ice cap. With an elevation of 2600m, it's was a daunting sight...

Read her personal account here: www.patdeavoll.co.nz

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Jon BowerMaster

WATCH THE TRAILER

We're just wrapping up the editing of a beautiful, provocative film about Southern Louisiana - "SoLa, Louisiana Water Stories" - about man's relationship with water in a part of the world where everywhere you look you're surrounded by bayou, swamp or wetlands, the Mississippi River or Gulf of Mexico. Home to the most unique and vital culture in America, every Cajun has a story - or two, three or more - about ... water.

Today too many of those stories are negative. SoLa's waterways are home to some serious environmental problems, including oil and gas spills, petrochemical waste, fertilizer run-off from its neighbors and coastal erosion that is disappearing twenty-five square miles of Southern Louisiana each year.

Today between 8 and 9 a.m. EST - August 27 - "ABC's Good Morning America" and Sam Champion are excerpting from our film, taking their own look at one of the most serious and mysterious of problems, a growing Dead Zone in the Gulf of Mexico.

KEEP UP WITH JON AT HIS BLOG NOTES FROM SEA LEVEL AND AT JONBOWERMASTER.COM

Email Jon at: jonbowermaster@yahoo.com

Notes from Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Mountain Hardwear Alpinist, Ueli Steck has packed his bags to conquer Makalu with the following Mountain Hardwear gear.
Sub Zero Jacket Designed for cold weather climbing and mountaineering, 650-fill goosedown with Taslan reinforced abrasion areas take on the weather and your pack with ease.	Hooded Compressor PL Jacket Superlight, PrimaLoft® ECO fill provides excellent warmth-to-weight ratio, insulates when wet, compresses easily, and is good for the planet. Specifically designed for alpine pursuits where moisture and weight are factors.
Power Stretch Jacket An abrasion-resistant jacket with the stretch, warmth, and breathability of a fleece, and the protection of a soft shell. Treated with an advanced surface-fusion polymer for wind- and water-resistance. Wear alone or use as a mid-layer.	Compressor Pant Superlight, PrimaLoft® ECO fill is high-loft, warm, and good for the earth. Specifically designed for backcountry activities where moisture and weight are factors.
Phantom 32° Our most popular down bag, the Phantom™ 32 is a really light, warm and compact two-season sleeping bag. The Phantom 32 is built to a snug mummy fit from Superlight 15 denier fabric and insulated with 800-fill down. Ueli Steck will also be using the the Bunker Expedition tent."
Absolute Zero Mitt 3 layer Conduit™, Duraguard™ palm, Keprotec® reinforcements and a warm, ThermicMicro™ liner mitt make our top-of-the line mountaineering mitt essential gear for high altitude and deep cold. Keprotec® reinforcements and a rappel-tough Duraguard™ palm handle rocks, ropes and ice in freezing conditions. The removable liner mitt has an improved fit with increased articulation and snug elastic at the wrist to hold in heat and increase warmth.
Quark Jacket The super lightweight, super breathable, highly waterproof Mountain Hardwear Men's Quark Jacket revolutionizes technical shells. Using only super soft tricot and a Conduit laminate, this ten-ounce jacket cuts out the middle man without sacrificing protection. You'll barely notice the Quark Jacket on your back or in your pack, but you can't ignore the 20K-rated waterproof coating and welded seams keeping you dry during an alpine storm.	Belay T Short Sleeve Fast drying, wicking and soft. Seams rotated from pressure points and flat lock seams for comfort. 88% Supplex nylon, 12% elastane jersey. Lightweight, soft hand and wicking finish. 4.6 oz/yd2.

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on theMountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Sean McDevitt in the "rain room" testing the Spring 2010 tent designs | Photo by Roland Dare

Polar Explorer and Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Jim McNeill, announces the Search for Ice Warrior Expedition Members!

Polaris Training | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

Defined as the furthest point from land on the Arctic Ocean and therefore its centre, the Northern Pole of Inaccessibility remains the last truly significant place in the Polar Regions, yet to be reached by mankind. It is over two hundred miles further than the Geographic North Pole and one of four recognised north poles.

Jim calling "footdown copy" | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

Jim is looking for 28 highly dedicated and committed people to take part in a comprehensive and intensive training programme to take on one of four 200 mile legs, pushing the route across the Arctic Ocean. The training includes everything which makes for a competent and safe polar traveller and takes place in Svalbard, Norway.

Along the route "crucial datasets" will be gathered to benchmark the condition of the ocean for the NASA funded National Snow and Ice Data Center (NSIDC) scientists, led by Walt Meier. These deliver the reality of climate change and make the whole expedition worthwhile and purposeful.

The journey itself is a complicated logistical problem with the need for highly remote fuel and food caches to enable the exchange of teams and resupplies and allow scientists to conduct further experiments.

Snowholing at 80 degrees north with Bellsie, Richard, and Andrea. | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

People wishing to get involved should visit the website www.ice-warrior.com absorb the details and contact Jim directly at jim@ice-warrior.com.

"Part of any expedition is to raise the necessary funds, so we teach people how to do this, give them all the materials necessary, guide them through the process and provide the media justification for sponsorship. In other words you don't need a fat cheque book but the passion and desire to put in the effort and time to make it happen. I'm looking for highly motivated individuals who want to go way beyond their comfort zones and push the boundaries of endurance in a wholly worthy and justifiable cause." - Jim McNeill

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Once again Ueli Steck is aiming to fulfill a great goal. This time it is not a first ascent which stands in the focus. His plan is to summit Makalu on the west pillar solo and without any kind of aid at the mountain. The west pillar really is a great route on a mountain over 8000 meters. To ascend solo such a route needs a lot of courage and experience. And this is what it is about in alpinism. The courage to try something, to deal with a possible success or a possible failure and to face up with this task.

Up to today only a few alpinists succeed to climb solo a difficult and demanding route on a peak over 8000 meters. Pierre Béghin, Tomasz Humar or Reinhold Messner are alpinists, who were able to fulfill this dream. The exposure on this height is enormous and the psychological pressure immense. From 6000 meters upwards you get yourself in an area, where human being is completely left alone. In an age of satellite telephone you can be saved by helicopter from the south or north pole. As from 6000 meters a rescue by helicopter is not possible anymore. A rescue by alpinists is - on an exposed ridge such as the west pillar of Makalu - practically impossible.

Ueli Steck wants to try something, what no one before him has achieved so far. The preparations for the Makalu Expedition were successful. Ueli Steck doesn't want to rely on others. He must and wants to go new ways. He wants to push the limits, in order to reach the summit.

Acclimatization
Ueli Steck just returned from the Gasherbrum II expedition at the beginning of August. He travels to Nepal pretty well acclimatized. From Kathmandu a plane will bring them to Tumlingtar. After they will trek about 10 days before reaching base camp of Makalu.

The weather conditions will decide when a summit push will be reasonable. In this time of the year the air is more dry but colder. The winds are an important element and not to underestimate.

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Read about the History of Makalu

We spend most of the year chasing, skiing and celebrating these wonderful frozen crystals that fall in deep quantities. The rest of the time, we create moving pictures to document the incredible experiences that winter provides. FLAKES showcases the deep and light powder from around the world that our audience has come to expect, blended together with the often flaky characters who thrive on this wintery existence.

Photo by Jay Beyer

Breaking trail into the backcountry with today's most talented telemark skiers, we used slide-cams, remote helicopters and headlamps to bring our creation home in a new light and perspective. Nick Devore, Will Cardamone, Andy Jacobsen and Andy Rosenberg expose Haines, Alaska, after being dumped on a glacier for a week long expedition. We spend one perfect afternoon of powder skiing in Patagonia beneath Cerro Fitzroy. Jake Sakson makes a statement with his breakthrough performance as the clear up -and-comer in the freeriding tele scene. Go behind the scenes of how the other half lives with 'Powderwhore Cribs' featuring Nick Devore humbly dwelling in his teepee. Jason West finally makes a jaw dropping appearance displaying his affinity for catching serious air. World Champions Megan Michelson and Paige Brady are the few and the proud women not afraid to push the limits and claim their powderwhoredom. The big lines of Valdez, Alaska, take a slashing from the fast and fluid turns of Chris Erickson and his helmet cam. And yes, there is plenty of the same old deep face slapping powder skiing from Jonah and Noah Howell.

Shot entirely in HD, this hour long showcase of last winters adventures travels from Patagonia, The Wasatch Mountains, Haines, Valdez, The San Juans and Aspen. For tour dates, to pre-order DVD's, and to view the trailer visit www.powderwhore.com

For more information contact Noah@powderwhore.com (801-647-9071)

Bookmark it! Play every day, your luck may change tomorrow!
It's that time again. The days are getting shorter, and you only have 31 of them to win one our street-tough packs - featuring bold new colors for 09. Built tough, these packs can take a beating, but thanks to fleece-lined pockets, your gear doesn't have to.

Here's how it works: Fill out the form on http://packaday.mountainhardwear.com and click Gimme that pack! to find out if you've won. You can enter once a day through September 17, 2009, so come back often for the most chances to get a pack.

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

As Erik's friend Steve Ackerman puts it, "The most profound and effective leadership is inspiring others to do great things by your own example of doing great things."

This past June, Kevin Cherilla, the Base Camp manager for Erik's historic Mt. Everest expedition, engaged in another remarkable project: guiding eight blind students from the Foundation for Blind Children in Phoenix on a climb of Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa.

The FBC team stands on the summit of Kilimanjaro. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

This recent expedition was reminiscent of the 2005 Kilimanjaro expedition that Erik organized with blind adults, when five blind people from four different continents stood on the Roof of Africa. Erik was joined by Douglas Sidialo, who lost his sight in the 1998 US Embassy bombing in Nairobi and who became the first blind African to reach Kilimanjaro's summit. So inspired by the climb and his life goal to promote peace and forgiveness, Douglas decided to bike the length of Africa, 7500 miles, from Cairo, Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa, and was sponsored by Erik.

Before and after the 2005 expedition, several visits were made to schools serving blind children in the Arusha region of East Africa. The experiences provided first-hand insight into the pressing need for better educational resources for blind children. As a result, Erik and others, including Unilever CEO Paul Polman, founded the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust.

The Trust, which works in conjunction with the Perkins School for the Blind in Boston, gives children in East Africa access to the technologies that help them to lead more fulfilling lives and become more integral parts of their communities. Some of these projects include the distribution of Perkins Braillers, repair of the machines, Braille literacy training and teachers to work with blind students. Both the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust and the Perkins School strongly believe that empowering blind and visually impaired individuals worldwide is dependent upon education and literacy, giving blind children the life skills they need to succeed.

Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

A blind student at the Mwereni Integrated School for the Blind in Moshi, Tanzania reads a letter in Braille. The 2009 expedition raised funds to donate Braille typewriters, canes and magnifiers to the school.

Although both the 2005 and 2009 expeditions of blind and sighted climbers are tremendous accomplishments, the reach goes far beyond the physical achievement. The Foundation for Blind Children team raised tens of thousands of dollars and in turn visited the same schools, attesting to how the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust is profoundly impacting the blind children of East Africa.

Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

At the Mwerini Integrated School for the Blind, a student types on a donated braille typewriter. The school is only one of a few for the blind in Tanzania and serves 47 blind students.

Time yourself and challenge your friends to conquer this 250-piece Mount Everest Camp 2 jigsaw puzzle on Adventure.NationalGeographic.com

Photograph by Brad Jackson

August 6, 2009
By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Expedition Gasherbrum II | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

A little bit earlier than scheduled my wife and I returned back to Switzerland. So I have enough time to pack the rest for the upcoming Makalu expedition and to get some rest, before I will definitively leave for Nepal on August 20, 2009.

I am very happy about the Gasherbrum expedition. Though Gasherbrum II is a an easy peak to climb and the weather was very unstable, with high winds and a lot of precipitations, I could celebrate my first ascent on a peak over 8000 meters. Celebrate is not really the right word to use: with 5 minutes peak stop and the upcoming descent back to camp 2, my euphoria was quite modest. A lot of snow shaped the season. I left camp 2 at 6500 meters on July 9 towards summit. I struggled through deep snow, which was either knee or hip deep. 12 hours I dug myself through the snow. On the summit pyramid I was about to give up. "What is this all about," I told myself after hours of tracking through the deep snow. I can't be so far anymore to the summit, I thought, and mountaineering is just a matter of will. "Move on," was my device.

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

The Rosie's Girls will be visiting Mountain Hardwear tomorrow 9am & 12!

During a three-week summer camp, 6th - 8th grade girls learn about and apply skills in carpentry, welding, fire fighting, horticulture and other technical trades. The curriculum includes creative expression such as mask making and journaling. Participants engage in a ropes course, self-defense and other fun physical challenges. "A Girl's World" activities allow the girls to explore issues such as gender roles, body image and social pressure. Because Richmond is the site of the Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park, the girls learn about that legacy first- hand by meeting with local heroes, and working in historic settings. All the girls work together on a community service project for a local organization.

Click here to view the East Bay Rosie's Girls Flyer or visit www.Rosiesgirls.org
Contact Don Lau for more information at DLau@ymcaeastbay.org

Watch this inspiring video from the Vermont session.

Jason Miller reviews the all new Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10 on Feedthehabit.com

With all the hydration packs currently on the market, there are only a handful that I can totally recommend (Deuter comes to mind). But, the new Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10/18/26 hydration pack lineup looks like a great foray into the market. The best feature is the frame sheet, dubbed HardWave, which looks like an accordion going top-to-bottom for a back-conforming fit, but still providing torsional rigidity. Another bonus of this design is its ability to conform to the contours of your back while providing excellent breathability.

An additional innovation on this pack is the OTF (On-the-Fly) Compression system that allows you to cinch down the entire pack from the hip. This ingenious design has long been needed in the market. I always complain when packs don't have compression straps to cinch the load, but this one takes simple compression straps to the next level by allowing you to cinch the entire load down from the waistbelt. Capacity is 600 cu. in. and weight is 1 lb. 4 oz. with an MSRP of $80

View Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10 photos here: Feedthehabit.com
Visit MountainHardwear.com to view Backpacks.

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Fredrick Wilkinson | Blog The Nameless Creature.

Rescuers boarding a Black Hawk during a SAR in the winter of 2007. Although the New Hampshire Air National Guard volunteers their time for rescues, they are frequently deployed overseas and unavailable, necessitating more costly measures. | Photo Courtesy of Fredrick Wilkinson

It's fair to say Scott Mason bit off a little more than he could chew.

In April, the Eagle Scout embarked on an ambitious one day traverse of the northern Presidential range in New Hampshire's White Mountains. Early into his hike, he twisted an ankle, but chose to continue. A few miles later, Mason re-considered and opted for a quicker route back to the road, only to find the trail blocked by numerous streams swollen by spring snow melt.

While the young hiker settled down for an uncomfortable night without a sleeping bag, ensolite pad, or tent, a search effort was launched. His parents reported him missing, and soon New Hampshire Fish and Game officers, aided by an army of volunteers, were combing the mountains. A helicopter was brought in from neighboring Maine. Finally, after three long days and nights of difficult back-country travel, Mason reversed his route and rendezvoused with a search party not far from the summit of Mount Washington. When he was reunited with his parents, several network television crews and a phalanx of reporters were on hand to capture the drama.

It appeared that the Mason SAR had reached a happy conclusion. The boy was found, alive, and while he had certainly made a serious error in deciding to continue into a remote area after spraining his ankle, he also exercised some good judgment that allowed him to emerge from the experience unscathed. The embarrassment at making the A-section of the Boston Globe and being on the evening news seemed like the right dose of punishment to ensure that he would learn from his mistakes and mature to become a better prepared outdoorsman. The New Hampshire Fish and Game Department, meanwhile, got to bask in some positive PR. And dozens of volunteers got to skip work for the day and play hero.

Then came the fallout: two weeks ago, Mason received a bill for $25,238 from the State of New Hampshire. "It was his negligence that led to him getting into that predicament," Major Tim Acerno of the New Hampshire Fish and Game recently said, adding that a helicopter used in the search significantly increased the cost of the mission. Mason has until August 9th to pay settle up or challenge the bill in a court of law. His family has declined to comment further on the matter.

UCLIMB is a fun event dedicated to bringing people across the country closer to the outdoors. Learn to climb in a comfortable small-group setting with other amateur climbers. Professional instructors will guide you through the basics of climbing, safety and conservation. This weekend adventure is ideal introduction to the world of rock climbing.

Click here to learn more about UCLIMB.

New River Gorge, WV - August 1-2
Red River Gorge, KY - September 12-13

Enjoy a weekend of camping and camaraderie. Learn climbing techniques, how to use climbing gear, voice commands, knot tying, belaying, and etiquette. Have fun and climb hard!

Pat Deavoll completes first ascent of Karim Sar, a 6,180-meter peak in Pakistan's Karakorum Range. Read an account of Pat's climb on Climbing.com.

Karim Sar (6,180 meters) as seen from the Baltar Glacier area to the north. Photo Pat Deavoll Collection

Deavoll racking up | Photo Pat Deavoll Collection	The upper south side of Karim Sar, with the route from high camp (5,100m) to the summit marked in blue. | Photo Pat Deavoll Collection, Intotherocks.net

Associate Editor Shannon Davis learns to love his outdoors-centric bowling shirt!

Shannon Davis, hard at work with beer and watermelon for backup.

Online Editor Anthony Cerretani extolled the virtues of his baby-vomit-proof North Face suite of shirts. In Part 2, Associate Editor Shannon Davis tries out the bowling-shirt-esque Mountain Hardwear Wicked Snap ($40, 6 oz.).

Read more at Backpacker.com

Mountain Hardwear's WICKED SNAP SHIRT
Koolknit™ wicks moisture, dries quickly and keeps you cool. Ideal for all high energy activities. Check it out here.

By Eric Aaholm, Youth Enrichment Strategies (YES) Executive Director

Youth Enrichment Strategies (YES) is a Richmond, California non-profit agency that enriches the lives of low-income children and families by bringing them to outdoor summer and family camps. Since 1999, YES has provided opportunities for thousands of Richmond and West Contra Costa County children ages 8 to 16, by having them attend summer camps all over Northern California.

In 2004, YES started weekend Family Camps for kids and their parents at YMCA Camp Loma Mar near Half Moon Bay, California. Outdoor camps provide an incredible opportunity for local kids and families to establish a connection with nature, with loved ones, and with themselves through a myriad of recreational and life-skill activities. Camps give participants the opportunity to find respite and joy in settings that are both safe and supportive - conditions that are often lacking in some of their Richmond neighborhoods where poverty and violence can dictate day-to-day life. Check out YES's 10th anniversary video "Camp, Connection, Community" by visiting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFrbU6Jtbd0.

For the past four years, YES has been a proud grant recipient of Mountain Hardwear's Gives Back program and looks forward to involving Mountain Hardwear employees with volunteer opportunities in their own backyard. This fall, YES will offer two Family Camps to children and families from Peres and Verde Elementary Schools in Central and North Richmond. Both Alex Baires and Ryan Hodgkin from Mountain Hardwear are planning to volunteer at the camps.

Baires attended YES's 10th Anniversary annual dinner in May and speaks highly of the organization. "YES is truly making a difference in the very city Mountain Hardwear calls home by introducing community members to nature and the outdoors. The youth and families that YES servers do not have many opportunities, if any, to enjoy the outdoors so I am especially appreciative by YES's mission and ability to get youth outside and away from the daily routine. It's exciting to be able to support a local non-profit that falls in line with Mountain Hardwear's philosophy and values."

To learn more about how to get involved, visit www.yesfamilies.org or contact Eric Aaholm at eric@yesfamilies.org / 510-232-3032.

Erik Weihenmayer, Blind Adventurer and Team Lumber
Click here to visit Erik's Website

The race kicked off with a brisk swim across the mighty Colorado River to a raft waiting on the other side. Teams then piled into the raft, flipped it and climbed back in. The clock stopped when each team successfully beached their boat back on the near shore. The fastest teams were not necessarily the strongest swimmers or paddlers, but rather those with the best strategy in navigating the current, and using the eddy along the shore to their advantage.

Race organizer, Ian Adamson, began his introductory remarks with a reminder, "Teamwork is the hallmark of adventure racing. As individuals, no team is faster than its slowest member, but as a team, you are much stronger."

Erik and his teammates paddle hard to the finish of the prologue on Day 1. | Photo Courtesy of Erik

The following two days took athletes by mountain bike, raft, and by foot deep into the Colorado wilderness as they navigated through a series of checkpoints. The level of teamwork was apparent as paraplegic athletes gave directions to blind athletes, who in return, helped push their special one-off hand cycles up steep hills. Teams used specially modified bungee cords to tow one-offs and even runners; this is a technique often used in adventure racing which enables a tired team member to rest while the other keeps up the pace.

By Sam Magro, Photographer/Guide

Of the routes that went up over the past few months the first winter ascent of Ravens Crack was the highlight. Stephen Koch and I skied in at 4am in January climbed 600' of ice (Prospector Falls WI4) and steep snow to the base of the Ravens Crack. There we embarked on 1,200' of spectacular sustained mixed climbing topping out at WI5 M7. We didn't complete the climb the first go and returned 2 weeks later to complete the route in a 22 hour round trip day. The route has some history so if you want to put it on the blog I would like to include that as well

I came back to Bozeman this year on Thanksgiving Day after 2 months of cragging in Kentucky and Tennesee. It was a drastic change from my standard West Coast rock n road trip. Primarily the rock is all cragging with no multi-pitch or marathon days. I was missing the long days and longed to be back in MT among the mountains.

While I was climbing on steep sand stone pockets and the infamous cracks of the T-wall, my Montana Brethren was starting to scrape around on alpine ice. I was back in town for less than a week when Aaron Thrasher and myself decided to try a new mixed line on the north face of?????? The idea was hatched and a date was planned to head deep in to the Beartooth Mountains. The weekend came and along with it a brutal cold snap of -10 in town which would be around -20 on the north face of ???? Having the luxury of being locals we simply opted to wait for prime conditions.

It came one week later just before the Bozeman Ice Festival. This round we invited my brother Whit to join. We got to the trailhead by 8pm and went straight to bed. The temps were quite pleasant and the amount of snow fall was minimal enough to merit using shoes on the initial approach.

We awoke pre-dawn and by 5 am were hiking up East Rose Bud canyon in the fading light of the massive moon.

Sam Magro climbing frozen moss and thin ice on FA of Moon Burn (WI4, M5, 300m) Beartooth Mountains, MT | Photo by Aaron Thrasher

Sam Magro entering the crux roof pitch on first known winter ascent of Raven Crack on Prospector Mountain of Death Canyon, Tetons, Wyoming | Photo by Stephen Koch

Sam Magro nearing the end of a long day on first winter ascent of Raven Crack in Death Canyon, Tetons, Wyoming | Photo by Stephen Koch

Whit Magro on FA of Golden Throat, Beartooth Mountains, WY | Photo by Sam Magro

Justin Griffin on pitch 2 of the Golden Graham Wall, Beartooth Mountains, WY | Photo by Sam Magro

All six Operation Denali team members pose with a guide June 9 at a place named Edge of the World, located near the team's 14,000-foot high campsite.

Operation Denali Edge of the World | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

In some ways climbing Denali was exactly what a team of injured veterans expected - it was an arduous climb riddled with everything from crevasses and couloirs to rocky ridges and sluffing snow. But there were also a few surprises along the way...
Read more on www.alaskastar.com

Follow these links for further coverage on this amazing mission.
www.ktuu.com
www.ktuu.com
www.ktuu.com
www.defenselink.mil
www.purpleheartradio.com

06 June Team, Purple Heart Trail dedication | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

14 June, team climbs Washburns thumb at 16800 ft! | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

16 June 1830 Denali Summit Dave Shebib, Bob Haines, Marc Hoffmeister. | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

Posted on Alaska Mountaineering School Blog

Kirby called at about 6:30 pm Alaska Time from the summit of Denali! "The first Wounded Warrior to summit was David Shebib, followed by Marc, followed by Bob" He said it was cold and windy so they were going to take some pictures and move on down. Their "SPOT" tracker is a bit off, but more accurate than we expected - Matt had informed me before they left that maps tend to be off by about 500 meters south and 200 meters east. If you want to follow their Spot Tracker, check out their website: Operation Denali These guys have worked tirelessly to make this climb happen, before they ever arrived in Talkeetna. Job Well Done! Congratulations!

Melis is not far behind them. When we talked to her earlier she said that if it is cold and/or windy they would wait to call us until they get back to camp, and if it was "sunny & warm" they would call from the top. From what Kirby said, I don't expect to hear from Melis until they get back to camp later tonight. We should be able to make an update by morning.

It's cloudy at 14,200 foot camp and it is flyable at Base Camp. Mark Hamill and Greg Vernovage flew in to Base Camp with West Buttress team Porter Draper, Charlie Pasch, Leslie Herje, Fergal O'Donnell, Manev Luthra and Keith Bronstein. They slathered on the sunscreen before they left!

Follow Operation Denali on www.Veteranscoalition.org.

Erik Weihenmayer and the No Barriers team recently concluded the No Barriers Festival 2009, held at Shake-A-Leg Miami, which showcased some of the most cutting-edge ideas, approaches, techniques and technologies enabling people with challenges to push through their own personal barriers to live more full and adventurous lives. No Barriers shared its mission with participants from as far away as Hawaii and Alaska, Venezuela and Columbia, and Switzerland and Israel. It brought together pioneers, many with disabilities themselves, who are pushing the envelope in a variety of fields, from technology and science, to art and athletics, to adventure and humanitarian causes.

The festival included numerous adaptive clinics, which demonstrated innovative techniques for open water swimming, paddling and scuba diving for amputees and paraplegics. Adaptive yoga classes helped those with severe mobility issues to increase flexibility and reduce pain. A scientist from MIT demonstrated his own pair of prosthetic legs, with computerized ankle joints, controlled by his cell phone. A blind sailor led tours for other blind participants using a talking GPS to navigate. A paraplegic athlete showed off his hand cycle which morphs into a wheelchair, enabling him to instantly rise to the height of a standing person and fit through narrow doorways. Capping the festival off was Molly the Pony, who lost her leg during Katrina and became one of the first ponies to be fitted with a prosthetic leg.

A participant tries out a morphing hand cycle at No Barriers / Andrea Kennedy

In addition to highlighting adaptive technology, No Barriers places a high importance on the human spirit. The goal is to spark in people an attitude which leads them to confront their formidable obstacles head-on, to believe they can solve their own challenges, to become their own advocates, and ultimately to determine their own futures. No Barriers is a universal message, for all of us who, despite our backgrounds, circumstances, or abilities, wish to shatter barriers and pursue our dreams.

Click here to read this outstanding front-page article in the Miami Herald on No Barriers called, Technology has redefined what it means to be `disabled'

One of summer's quiet pleasures is the chance to escape with a good book for some relaxed reading. Most book stores stock to the brim with paperback romance novels and fantasy fiction for the beach-going crowd - but what's on the shelves for the would-be adventurer, facing the daunting challenge of a placid vacation with the family instead? There are plenty of new best-seller titles to choose from, but recently I've been getting the most pleasure by re-discovering old classics. Visit Fredrick Wilkinson's Blog to view three of his all-time favorites.

By Jon Bowermaster, Mountain Hardwear Athlete

We screened our new, big, fun, informative, high-def film - TERRA ANTARCTICA, Rediscovering the Seventh Continent - this past weekend for the very first time, at the Blue Ocean Film Festival in Savannah, Georgia, and came away with some great review. Out of more than 200 films entered TERRA ANTARCTICA - about our 2008 exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula by sea kayak, foot and small plane - was one of six chosen to compete for the "Best of Festival" prize and was ultimately named the best "Ocean Issues" film.

Given my interest in and commitment to exploring the world's ocean and bringing back stories from it we couldn't ask for a better honor than to be regarded as the film "that most effectively raises awareness and increases understanding about environmental and sustainability issues facing the oceans and its inhabitants." That is exactly our goal. WATCH TRAILER.

KEEP UP WITH JON AT HIS BLOG, NOTES FROM SEA LEVEL AND AT JONBOWERMASTER.COM

Fredrick Wilkinson's blog

In Memory of Wade, Micah, and Jonny

Friends, family, and climbers around the world are mourning the loss of Micah Dash, Wade Johnson, and Jonny Copp. The trio were last seen alive when they left their basecamp in the Gongga (Minya Konka) Range of the Eastern Himalaya in Seuchuan Province, China, on May 20th. Jonny and Wade's bodies have been positively identified by search parties. It is likely all three perished in an avalanche.

In their home city of Boulder, Colorado, friends mobilized as soon as it was discovered they had missed their flight home. Some immediately flew to China, while others stayed awake for days on end to coordinate information, procure travel visas, collect donations, write press-releases, and provide comfort within the close-nit adventuring community. The outpouring of love and support on their blog has been staggering.

I never had the opportunity to meet Wade. But I can imagine the excitement he must have felt to be going into the mountains with Micah and Jonny, who I knew through years of haphazard encounters while traveling and climbing. I would bump into Jonny in Alaska or Micah in Yosemite Valley, share an evening of revelry, and then not see them for another nine months or a year. I am grateful for the few chances I had to tie into a rope with them at the crags, and saddened I never shared a true mountain adventure with either of them.

2003: Some friends and I were slumming it at Kahiltna International Airport when Kelly Cordes and Jonny arrived. Most of the West Buttress expeditions had been keeping a dignified distance from our slushy hovel, but Jonny and Kelly came right over to say hello and socialize. We watched them blaze up to the third-ice band on Depravation on Mount Hunter, then they headed to the East Fork of the Kahiltna for something a little more remote. That was so Jonny: he seemed like he'd rather go see what was around the next corner, instead of wasting all his time on the obvious, popular objectives like Hunter. I remember watching as they skied back into BC several days later in swirling grey clouds. They'd found adventure, all right. After FA-ing a 4,000 mixed route, Kelly had gone into a crevasse while skiing down in a white out. After hauling his partner out, Jonny found their tiny bivy tent. They crawled inside to brew up, and, though they were out of food, Jonny reached into a stuff sack to present Kelly with... a can of beer. That was also Jonny. You knew he was capable not only of leading the crux pitch or haulling your arse out a crevasse but he also had the class to produce a malted beverage in the middle of the Alaskan wilderness.

The first time I met Micah was in Indian Creek, back in the early 2000-s... Somebody had fallen near the top of a hard, tricky to protect finger crack, and they asked Micah if he wanted to go up to finish the lead...

Go to Adventurefilm.org/blog and watch the video put together by friends and family of Jonny, Micah and Wade. Just a two minute introduction into the lives of these three amazing humans. There is audio narration, so make sure your volume is up.

The Mountain Hardwear family is deeply saddened by the loss of Jonny Copp and Wade Johnson - two amazing men who will continue to inspire many of us. Their bodies have been found in avalanche debris at 4,000 meters on Mount Edgar, China. Our most heartfelt condolences go out to their families and loved ones. Currently, the search continues for Micah Dash, the third climber in their group and our beloved friend and fellow employee. We continue to hope for the best and thank everyone for their tireless efforts and support during this difficult time.

• Please consider making a donation to the Search Fund.
• For up-to-date information on the search in China visit adventurefilm.org
• Share a thought or memory here: Facebook Page

By Ueli Steck, Mountain Hardwear Athlete

Just back from the United States where my wife Nicole and I climbed in beautiful and warm weather. It's time to say goodbye to the summer and head back to get used to cold temperatures and snow.

Our trip to the States was gorgeous. I could - except to one pitch - redpoint on sight the route "Golden Gate" on the legendary El Capitan in the Yosemite National Parc. El Capitan is 1000 meter high and the highest free standing monolith of granite in the world. The difficulty of the route is 5.13b (US-scale), which corresponds to an 8a. This is motivation enough for the upcoming expedition to Gasherbrum II.

Read more on Climbing.com

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakorum, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. The highest peak is Gasherbrum I. Three of the Gasherbrum massif's high peaks are over 8,000 meters. Gasherburm I is the world's eleventh highest peak, Broad Peak is the twelfth highest, and Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth highest. They do not lie - like Everest, Lohtse, Makalu or Ama Dablam - in Nepal, but in the sister mountain range of the Himalaja, in Karakorum Pakistan.

Visit: www.defenselink.mil/home/features/2009/0609_Operation_Denali/

The Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship Program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environment. Currently Mountain Hardwear is sponsoring Operation Denali, a monumental challenge for four wounded veterans, their two mentors and one guide, as they move from the base of North America's highest peak in Alaska's Denali National Park to the mountain's base camp at an elevation of 6,850 feet.

Operation Denali is continuing to raise funds during the climb. All funds raised will go to enable other warrior's to achieve similar dreams. Please, donate and support the future dreams of warriors.

Follow the expedition timeline on the Operation Denali home page at:
theveteranscoalition.org/operation_denali/

Also www.defenselink.mil is publishing a special feature that tracks our climb and provides some profiles of the climbers. Click here to visit the site.

Climb on!

By Dawn Glanc | Read Dawn's Mountain Hardwear Athlete Bio.

Dawn Glanc climbing in Southern Utah.

One of my favorite places to climb is Indian Creek, in Southern Utah. There is something about that area that calls to me after a long season of ice climbing. To me it is a little bit of paradise. The landscape is surreal. The rock formations in the creek and the canyon lands are something out of a fantasy story. Each year I find myself there in the spring to lose myself in the desert and soak up the warm sun.

I try to plan this desert experience around my birthday, which is in early May. I love to celebrate my birthday climbing with my friends. This year friends came from all distances to help me celebrate. Old friends and new friends came together to drink PBR and enjoy the campfire. I even had two birthday cakes with candles, accompanied each by a jolly happy birthday song. The party was a great way to welcome my advancement in age.

Each year, as a birthday present to myself, I try to send a climb. I typically pick a route that will be memorable. I try to pick a route that will challenge me, and one that will leave an impression on me. Since I had a crappy birthday last year, I wanted this year to be a big day of climbing and celebrating. I felt I had to make up for last year. This year I wanted to climb something fat for my big day, so I chose Big Baby.

Who Inspires You? Tell us about your Go-to-Girl and WIN big!

Mountain Hardwear and Montrail join forces to celebrate the inspiration and motivation women provide each other to climb, bike, hike, swim, surf, trail run, and paddle. We want to know who that Go-to-Girl is that motivates you! Give us 300 characters on who motivates you and include a photo. Let's go! Gotogirl.mountainhardwear.com

By Dougald MacDonald, Mountain World

Swiss climber Ueli Steck free-climbed Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch, onsighting the rest of the climb. And the one pitch that spoiled his onsight? It was the 5.11c crack off the top of El Cap Spire, just before Golden Gate heads right from the Salathé Wall. Steck slipped on wet rock on this relatively easy pitch, but onsighted the route's five 5.12 and three 5.13 pitches. Read more on Climbing.com.

Also check out SuperTopo Climber's Forum.

News from Jon Bowermaster

This promises to be a fantastic journey taking me back to a part of the world that kick-started my deep interest in all things oceanic. From the intense culture of the world's biggest fish market in Tokyo, to the remote northern islands of Japan and Kamchatka, before winding through the Aleutian Islands we'll be in some of the most beautiful and roughest waters on the planet.

I know the latter first hand: It was exactly ten years ago that I ventured to the Islands of Four Mountains, a small chain in the heart of the Aleutians known by the Aleuts as "The Birthplace of the Winds," with three friends in two big sea kayaks. That was the first of our OCEANS 8 adventures and none of us could have predicted then - as we endured five-plus weeks of constant rain, cyclonic winds and the rare blue sky, navigating among the foggy and wind-swept islands and climbing the snow-capped volcanic peaks - what the next decade would deliver. For me, it was the start of an odyssey that continues today, exploring the world's ocean from sea level with a focus on the people - like the Aleuts - who first explored it.

Keep up with Jon at his blog, Notes from sea level and at JonBowermaster.com.

Everest taken from Pumori camp 1. | Photo Courtesy of Kenton Cool

The team are resting at basecamp at the moment while we all wait for better weather. I woke this morning to a thick layer of snow all over Basecamp and the winds up high are howling.

The team are all keeping busy with daily walks down the valley a little bit and also up to Pumori Camp 1 as you can see from the picture above. We are also busy playing games and reading books, although my choice of book 'Dreadnaught' which so far is all about 1800 German politics is proving a bigger challenge than the mountain.

Looking into the future it looks like there may be a window of good weather from the 19th through to the 24th May so we are all keeping our fingers and toes crossed for this.

If it comes off it will be my 7th straight summit on the mountain and we are hoping to get a special fellow up the hill this year!!!

View from my tent this morning! | Photo Courtesy of Kenton Cool

Follow the action at www.dream-guides.com and click latest news.

A huge thanks for all the support from various people esp Mountain Hardwear, Lyon Equipment, Sceince In sport, Amersports, Land Rover.

Regards,
Kenton Cool

A weekend of fun and climbing! The New River Rendezvous is an annual climber festival benefiting the New River Alliance of Climbers. Mountain Hardwear is donating the Signature Event T and brings the 1st annual Tug 'O War: Pros vs. Joes

For complete event info go to the official New River Rendezvous website.

By Jon Bowermaster

Every day dozens of ships - carrying cargo, crews, even passengers - are picking their way carefully along Somalia's coastline, attempting to move from the Indian Ocean to the Red Sea via the Gulf of Aden. These are currently the most dangerous waters on the planet: In the first three months of this year there have been more than one hundred successful pirate attacks and hundreds of just-unsuccessful ones.

My friend Dennis Cornejo - marine biologist, undersea filmmaker extraordinaire, lover of flora and reptiles - is aboard a passenger ship (sans passengers) making its move through the gulf, paralleling the Somali coastline. If successful, the trip should take five to six days. If unsuccessful, the next we hear from him may be as a hostage, the ship being held for ransom. Follow his Posted by Amelia on May 11, 2009 10:23 AM | Permalink | Comments (0)