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This page contains an archive of all entries posted to Hardwear Sessions in the The Gang at Mountain Hardwear category. They are listed from oldest to newest.

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The Gang at Mountain Hardwear Archives

November 11, 2009

Hardwear Crew

Mountain Hardwear Employee, Brooke Appler


" One of my favorite perks about working at Mountain Hardwear is its location at the north end of the Bay Trail. Everyday I have a beautiful bike ride along the bay and which often includes a ride up into the Berkeley Hills on my way to work in the morning. Coming down those hills can be chilly in the early hours! My Heavyweight Powerstretch Gloves keep my fingers from freezing and they have a gripper patches on the inner palm which provide more protection and help when picking up my bike.

I also love bicycle camping and have found that the Sprite/Ghisallo tents are essential pieces- they are very lightweight and packable and have specifically-designed vestibule to keep my bicycle out of view. When I go for a quick excursion I usually pack the Sprite tent. The Power Stretch Jacket is a well-fitting hooded layering piece that keeps me warm both on overnight camping trips and rides along the windy Bay Trail." - Brooke Appler, Design Associate/Outerwear

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November 4, 2009

What does Mike Wallenfels, President of MH have on his Ipod?

Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear

Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear on Cathedral Peak

Listen to the recording of 106.1 FM The Corner Monday morning "Get Moving Charlottesville" segment with Mike Wallenfels, President of Mountain Hardwear. He talks about staying active despite such a busy career and position.

106.1 FM

Go to: 1061 thecorner.com scroll down the page and you will see Mike's interview "Get Moving Charlottesville".


November 2, 2009

Deep Water Soloing

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Julia Niles

I had a conversation with Dan from England last night at dinner about deep water soloing. He just came from Mallorca so was filled with facts about how to do it properly. Here's the list on how to jump from very high without getting hurt:

Kalymnos Greece

15 meters up and Julie Niles forms a know in her throat. | Photo by James Q Martin

1) Always leave your boots on
2) Blow out upon impact to keep your eardrums from blowing out
3) If possible fall into choppy sea
4) If there is no "chop" then throw a big boulder in the water a few seconds before jumping
5) Don't jump from high ground when there are no people in a boat ready to rescue you below
6) Don't breathe underwater: sadly we are no longer in the womb.

Kalymnos Greece Julia Niles

Julie Niles Climbing in Kalymnos Greece | Photo by James Q Martin

Not that we did too bad out there. We took a boat from Vathi on the Island of Kalymnos to give our ropes a day's rest. But there is a discernible knot that forms in my throat at about 15 meters that makes it very difficult to go any higher. I'm convinced that a few practice jumps are all I need...

October 29, 2009

Even the Retailers Want to Win MHW Jackets!

Mountain Hardwear held a visual merchandising contest for our Performance Elevated Retailers this October and encouraged them to get creative using Mountain Hardwear outerwear collections and fun props. The Grand Prize winner gets Mountain Hardwear jackets for their staff and all of our winners get bragging rights. Check out the winning displays...


Diamond Brand

Grand Prize - Diamond Brand Outdoors in Arden, NC Diamondbrand.com/


Wild Iris

1st Place - Wild Iris Mountain Sports in Lander, WY | WildIrisclimbing.com


Beaver Sports and Summit Hut

2nd Place - Beaver Sports in Fairbanks, AK | BeaverSports.com
3rd Place - Summit Hut in Tucson, AZ | SummitHut.com

October 26, 2009

Dawn Reporting Back from the Greek Islands: Water Soloing

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

A few days ago we chattered a boat to go water soloing. We headed to the town of Vathi to catch our water taxi. The boat driver spoke no English, so we brought along the guidebook. We could then simply point to the destination that we had in mind. After a short boat ride, we arrived at a small cave with huge hueco pockets and tufas. Pat, Tim, James, Julia and I were all totally psyched. We had the place to ourselves and it seemed too good to be true.

We each took turns climbing, so that the others could heckle from the boat. We would dive in the crystal clear blue water with our shoes on and swim over to the routes. Finding a good hold to pull you out of the water and onto the rock was not a problem. Once on the rock, the movement felt very free, there was no rope or quick draws to deal with. You could climb as the spirit moved you, or until you could not hold on any more.

It was hard at times to convince myself that it was safe to fall. At the top of each route, I found myself on a giant jug, over gripping and fighting my fear of dropping into the water. I would get incredibly nervous and then my fingers would simply fail. I would drop the 15-20 feet into the water screaming loudly all the way until I was submersed in the warm water. After clearing the salt water from my sinuses, I would laugh and smile as I swam back to the boat. The heckling would continue as I climbing into the boat on how the fear of falling had paralyzed me, stopping me from advancing any higher.

Dawn Glanc water solo

When fingers fail there is a 15-20 foot drop into the warm, blue water. | Photo by James Q Martin

Being on the water was beautiful. The sea is crystal clear, allowing us to view the marine life below. It was great to explore and see the island from a new perspective. Now that the day has passed, I find myself longing for that experience again. I now have to be cautious to not let all this island living spoil me for the upcoming ice season. It may be to late.

October 23, 2009

More from Dawn Glanc on the Island of Kalymnos

Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise - Greek island of Kalymnos
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

The Island of Kalymnos is known for amazing limestone climbing. There are multiple walls to choose from. Long slabs, slightly overhanging walls and deep caves are abundant. What intrigues most climbers are the tufas. A Tufa is like a stalactite; which is formed from the calcite and silica deposits that drip from the rock. The Tufas come in all shapes and sizes. Some are small rounded blobs, what climbers may call chicken heads. Other Tufas resemble flowstone. My favorite type of Tufa is the long icicle looking formations that hang from the rock faces and drip down from the caves. Typically the tufas are awesome positive holds, what we refer to as jugs.

Wall

Some amazing limestone climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

The Tufa climbing requires a climber to think outside the box. The climbing is three-dimensional and requires the climber not only to look up, but also all around. A giant Tufa may be hanging just behind and out of your peripheral view, providing a stem move to relieve the over hanging nature of the climb. My favorite is the Tufa hug, which allows a no hands rest as you sit, straddle or hug the formation. These crazy no hands rests allow the 35-meter overhanging cave routes to be possible. This may be the wildest rock climbing that I have ever encountered. It makes me feel like a kid on a jungle gym, and I love it.

Dawn Glanc

Challenging three-dimensional climbing | Photo by James Q Martin

Dawn Glanc climbing in Greek Islands

Dawn's Tufa hug | Photo by James Q Martin


October 20, 2009

Spectacular Climb of the Iconic Grand Teton

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

In late August, my friends, Mike and Pat O'Donnell, and I arrived in Wyoming to climb the Grand Teton. The Tetons are an icon of the Rockies, rising up abruptly from the Wyoming grassland and piercing the sky with sharp granite teeth. At 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton is one of the steepest and most technical peaks in the lower 48 states and has been on my list for many years. It is the place where many mountaineering legends learned their trade to challenge peaks around the world.

Belay Guides on the wall

Erik approaches belay guides | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Not long after we arrived in Jackson, WY, we encountered two friendly faces. On a ferry across Jenny Lake en route to a practice climb, we ran into longtime friends, Kelly and her husband Craig Perkins. To add to the irony, two weeks earlier, I ran into Kelly and Craig at the base of another rock face while training near San Jacinto peak in California. Kelly, a hero of mine, was the recipient of a heart transplant in 1995 after a severe virus destroyed her own heart. They have climbed all over the world, from the infamous face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in California (of course, the Heart Route) to the Matterhorn in Switzerland, championing the cause of organ and tissue donation. In 2001, Kelly stunned her doctors by climbing 19,340-foot Mt. Kilimanjaro, the Roof of Africa.

On this most recent trip, Kelly and Craig set out to complete the Grand Traverse, a classic route that reaches ten summits along the Teton Range. Kelly enlisted seven cardiac nurses from the Eastern Idaho Regional Medical Center to join her on a portion of the climb. The project, aptly named "Stand on the Grand for Organ and Tissue Donation, " taught the nurses about the excertional demands of climbing on the heart, and served as an inspiration for heart patients as well. Most importantly, the climb helped to promote Craig and Kelly's campaign for organ donations.The New York Times published an outstanding article on Kelly's climb, NYTimes.com

Pat and Erik Belay

Pat Odonnell and Erik Weihenmayer Belay | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

After the chance meeting in Wyoming, our teams climbed accordion style to a spectacular finish on the Guide's Wall. We all rappelled down just in time to avoid being drenched by the usual afternoon thunderstorms. Then, our two teams parted ways as Mike, Pat and I prepared for our attempt of the Petzl Ridge on the Grand.

Ascending

Erik Weihenmayer and Pat Odonnell ascending. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

When we awoke the following day, five inches of snow had fallen on the Grand Teton, adding to a foot of snow which had fallen the previous week. We decided to push ahead to the Moraine bivy site in Garnet Canyon, the staging area for an assault on the upper flanks. The weather was chilly as we ascended the lower section of the mountain, crossing scree fields of frozen and slippery rock. As we reached the technical climbing on the Petzl Ridge, we encountered ferocious winds. We climbed with down jackets, fleece hats, and gloves, not at-all typical for August. Although the weather improved marginally with the sun beginning to peek from the clouds, the wind was still painfully cold but we pushed ahead on ice-covered rock. Pat remarked sarcastically that it was "great weather for rock shoes!" As we gained altitude, the elements became more challenging as we struggled up frozen rock with minimal gear. Spirits dampened some as a climber above us fell ten feet and landed on his back, narrowly avoiding a fatal accident, we simul-climbed the last 1,500 feet (a technique by which rope teams ascend together while placing rock protection between them). At 2:30 PM, our team of three reached the now snow-covered summit block. Accompanied by Mike and Pat, I became the first blind person to stand atop the Grand Teton. Sixteen hours after beginning, we fell into our sleeping bags exhausted, but satisfied from a marvelous adventure.

Kelly Perkins has recently released her book, The Climb of My Life, Scaling Mountains with a Borrowed Heart. View more information at: www.craigandkelly.com/ordercandkbook.htm

Summit

Summit of Grand Teton! | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer


MH Athletes Eyeing 7000m Peaks in Nepal As We Speak..

Oct 20,2009
Climbers News found on MountEverest.net

Himalaya wrap-up: Nepal 7000ers action
Robert Jasper has left his regular playground on the Eiger's north face and showed up in Nepal (MountEverest.net) While Nepal and Tibet's 8000ers are virtually deserted, action continues on smaller peaks such as Baruntse, Pumori and Ama Dablam, less affected by the high winds of the jet stream.


Current expeditions on Nepal's peaks
Simone Moro mentioned earlier that the Anthamatten brothers we going for Jasemba (7350 m), Robert Jasper was aiming for Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cholatse, and Tomaz Humar was also in place - all choosing Nepalese projects due the closure of Tibet imposed by the communist regime.

Besides several teams currently on popular Ama Dablam, some commercial expeditions are launching summit bids on other 6000/7000 meters peaks in Nepal.

A team outfitted by SummitClimb is training on Mera Peak befre attempting Baruntse. Tim Rippel's Peak Freaks team is advancing on Pumori. "Sherpas Jangbu, Tashi, Paulden and Kaji did more carries up to Camp 1 today so it is just about complete," Tim wrote yesterday. "Tomorrow we will climb up again to ABC but this time we will stay the night to allow everyone to adjust to the new altitude, then retreat to BC the next day."

"Mt. Pumori is rarely climbed and in particular the route we have been pioneering since 1998, not the standard route but the South Ridge," Tim explained. "We used to do training on Ama Dablam but it doesn't sit well with us anymore."

October 19, 2009

FLAKES is Rolling Through San Francisco This Weekend!

EAST BAY, SF and TAHOE folks - Mountain Hardwear Sponsored, Powderwhore is rolling through this weekend on their tour for "Flakes", their newest ski porn flick. All shows have been packed. Check it out!

Friday 10/23 - 7pm - Sports Basement - 1590 Bryant St in San Francisco (6-7pm is happy hour w/ free beer and wine)
Saturday 10/24 - 7pm - Sawtooth Ridge Cafe - Tahoe City


More info: www.powderwhore.com
Tour Dates here

Flakes Crowd

View tour images here

October 16, 2009

Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise

Day One In Rock Climbing Paradise
(Look for more updates from Dawn Glanc)

By Mountain Hardwear Climber, Dawn Glanc

Greek island of Kalymnos

Paradise! | Photo by James Q Martin

After a long and arduous guiding season, I wanted some island living. Warm weather, short approaches, and light backpacks is what I had been dreaming of while slogging on the glaciers. It was the simple life and the idea of traveling around the island on scooters that called to me. Finally, after a few months of planning, my dream of sport climbing near the Mediterranean came true.

Greek island of Kalymnos

The beautiful Greek island of Kalymnos | Photo by James Q Martin

Yesterday Pat Ormond and I arrived on the Greek island of Kalymnos. As we flew in we could see that the island, was covered in amazing limestone cliffs. Beautiful walls lined the coast and met the sapphire blue water of the Mediterranean. As we traveled to our hotel we passed many steep caves with crazy tufas of all sizes. The cliffs called to us like we were little kids at the playground.

After surviving the taxi ride through the narrow crowded streets, we arrived at the Hotel Philoxenia and were greeted by Nicolas, our very gracious host. The locations of our accommodations are awesome. The hotel is at the base of the Grande Grotto, one of the most inspiring caves that we have seen so far. As we entered our hotel room, we were taken back by our view of the sea. It seemed that we had found a climbers' paradise.

Arriving at Grande Grotto

Dawn arriving at Hotel Philoxenia. | Photo by James Q Martin

Continue reading "Dawn's Rock Climbing Paradise" »

October 15, 2009

The First Turkish Woman to Summit Aconcagua

MHW Fan Becomes the First Turkish Woman to Summit Aconcagua
By Gulnur Tumbat, Assistant Professor at SFSU

Aconcagua Summit

Gulnur Tumbat at the top of Aconcagua | Photo Courtesy of Gulnur Tumbat

I am an academic and I love my job. One problem however is that during the Falls and Springs of every year, or in other words, during the climbing seasons in the Himalayas, I have to be at school teaching my undergrad and MBA students. There are always sabbaticals to go back to Himalayas, but only every 7 years. It can be challenging. That leaves winters and summers for my research and travels. It was one of those "I can't breath" moments when I started to plan my last winter. I needed to take a break from writing. The choice was easy: it was climbing season in South America. So, I contacted a few friends whom I like to hang out and who are good climbing partners. Job issues and other commitments was a problem so no one was going to be able to make it. After reading many legitimate climbing reports and after talking to my guide friends, I got a feeling that I may be able to climb Aconcagua solo. I put together my itinerary, went over my gear, upgraded some and I was ready. It may sound like a 10-minute preparation but it stretched out over months. Oh, I have been climbing for 15+ years, train outdoors pretty intense, and more importantly I consider myself having the right attitude and understanding of what it takes to climb big mountains. This is not a place for a climbing resume (well mine is way too short to mention on a website like this one anyway) and you don't know me as a person, so this is all I can tell you about my background if you are wondering who I am. I find myself lucky that I also get to combine what I love to do with my job, that is my climbing and my research on risk marketing and risk consumption. I use high-altitude climbing expeditions as my context - not just by reading about them but by being part of the actual experience (the best way of learning!). There is still not enough experience, not enough knowledge, and not enough skills, but one has to go out, climb, and play more to improve and learn more, right?

Continue reading "The First Turkish Woman to Summit Aconcagua" »

October 12, 2009

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition COMPLETE!

Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

October 11, 2009
Expedition Complete.

Now in Kathmandu sorting, cleaning and repairing equipment before finding a flight back to Australia and the 'real world'.

Neil and I are still pretty tired and the stairs at the hotel are a challenge in themselves but its good to be eating real food and getting the odd hot shower.

Thankyou to all who've sent Neil and I congratulatory messages. I didn't realise there were so many following our progress and my apologies for not responding directly to everyone, yet. It means a lot though, so thanks.

I've received a few requests for specifics about the route we climbed -whether it was the '80s Austrian route or the '00s Inaki route. I think it might have been a combination of both. I think the Austrians traversed the north face above a large serac band whilst Inaki went below. We also went below. From there I'm not too sure which line the various parties took. We went to the left of the 3 fingers of rock that rise from around 7700 metres to 7800 metres, and from there went straight up to the summit ridge. Then along/up the ridge to the top. Those who care can fight over the 'name' of the route. We just enjoyed the climb.

Climbing Shisha was more than just reaching the top of an 8000er for me. It was the final peak in my quest to climb all fourteen of the 8000ers and it was also the first Austalian ascent of that mountain's true summit. So it was a lot of reward for a tough climb and the experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it. I think the bivy on the way down was Shisha's way of letting us know that we'd been 'allowed' the summit but shouldn't get too cocky about it.

Of course, whilst it was Neil and I doing the physical work on this climb, there was a lot of support in the background. Many thanks to Robin Boustead, Judy Smith and Jamie McGuiness for very valuable weather information, and the following organisations for high quality equipment and sponsorship, without which the climb would have been much more difficult and dangerous:
Mountain Hardwear
Gore-tex
Outdoor Life Group - Sydney
Trek and Travel - Sydney
Fisherman's Friend
Spelean (Sydney) & Petzl
Australian Geographic
Millet
World Expeditions

Sooooo, have I finished with 8000 metre climbing? No. I have at least one more climb I'd like to do next year in the pre-monsoon season. Details to be announced later. So stay tuned and thankyou all again for your support and good wishes.

Andrew

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Joes vs. Pros Tug of War at the New River Rendezvous

It's close... will Team Mountain Hardwear win the tug of war?

Water Stone Outdoors: Providing quality gear and friendly advice to rock climbers and outdoor enthusiasts in the New River Gorge of West Virginia since 1994. We are here for your needs to make your outdoor experience the best possible!

Visit Water Stone Outdoors to see more action.

Deadline for 2010 Expedition Sponsorship Program

2010 Applications are due November 15th!

Mountain Hardwear Expedition Sponsorship Application

Greenland Ev Direct tent | Photo by Josh Helling

The Mountain Hardwear sponsorship program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. Download the 2010 Application Here

October 8, 2009

Details of Andrew Lock's Summit of Shisha Pangma

Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

Sorry for being out of contact. Since our summit day the weather has been appalling with consequent lack of solar power.

October 8, 2009 - 17.20
THE DETAILS...

Based on the forecast and our reading of conditions, Neil and I decided to try for a summit on 2 October. We set off on 29 September for Camp 1 and up to C3 on 1 October at 7400 metres.

Other teams were trying only for the Central (false) summit but we'd come for the real summit and decided on a variation of the 'Inaki' route, which would have us climb further east on the North face than Inaki's line. We hoped it would give us steep but direct access to the summit ridge.

On the 2nd we set off at 5am from camp 3 and traversed across the broad north face to position ourselves under the route we wanted to climb. The snow on the face was mucher deeper than we'd hoped for, making it harder climbing with greater avalanche risk but still achievable if all went well.

Although we wanted to hit the top around midday, the deep snow and long route delayed us and the weather deteriorated through the day, making it a race for the top. It was absolutely exhausting breaking trail in deep soft snow but we finally hit the summit ridge at 4pm.

We then had a razor sharp ridge to traverse before sneaking along the face underneath some chunky ice cornices. This was the most dangerous part as the cornices threatened from above whilst with every step we set off small avalanches.

Finally however we hit the top at 5.05pm in swirling cloud, snapped a couple of pics then raced as fast as we could back down the ridge to our route on the face.

We downclimbed in darkness trying to beat the encroaching storm but it caught us. Our tracks were covered and headlamps rendered useless in the falling snow, so we decided the safest though very unpleasant option was to bivouac on an ice ledge we cut with our axes. No tent, stove, sleeping bags etc, so we sat on our packs for a little insulation.

The biggest fear was being caught by oedema or high winds. Luckily neither happened. It snowed on us through the night and it was bitterly cold ( -20 to -30 C) but we made it through.

At 5.30am it was light enough to see the way, so we downclimbed to c3, arriviving about 8.30 am.

The first thing to do was radio basecamp and let them know we were alive, then we melted snow to rehydrate as we'd only had 500ml each to drink in the previous 27 hours and were terribly dehydrated from all the climbing in the very cold dry air.

Later in the morning we packed up C3 and started the descent to abc, which took 2 days to complete.

That about sums it up. One more dispatch to follow now that I have power again.

For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

October 6, 2009

First Australian to Summit ALL Fourteen 8000m Peaks!

Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

Mountain Hardwear Alpinist Andrew Lock Summits Shisha Pangma!

Oct 4, 2009 - 15:50
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Did it! Summitted the true summit of Shishapangma at 5.05pm, 2nd October, with Neil Ward.

Very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face, caught in a storm on descent with an open bivouac at 7600 metres without equipment thrown in for good measure.

Just into basecamp now, bit tired, more later.


For full coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Erik Leads an Expedition in Mexico

September 28,2009
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

Standing guard over one of the world's most populated cities, the volcanoes overlooking Mexico City are shrouded in the mystery and allure of the legends of their ancient past. This November, Erik will lead a team of blind and sighted students on an expedition to these infamous peaks.

As the legend goes, the volcanoes of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl were created from the tragic love of the Aztec princess Iztaccíhuatl and the warrior Popocatépetl. These magnificent peaks were formed by Popo's fiery emotion and immortalized in Itza's womanly shape. From a distance, Itza forms the outline of a woman lying on her back. Although few have explored their broad talus and snow slopes up close, they have a beauty, a history and a palpable presence which transcend their stunning visual prominence. Combining an unlikely team of blind and sighted young adults from Mexico and the United States, it will be an extraordinary journey of leadership, discovery and adventure. For this expedition, Global Explorers has partnered their nationally recognized Leading the Way program with the Mexican nonprofit Ojos que Sienten. Their goal: to reach the higher limits of 17,159-foot Iztaccíhuatl and, in the process, to break down barriers and misperceptions about disabilities. This trip is made possible through the support of numerous sponsors, including Unilever. Thanks to the generosity of Fundación Televisa and Fundación Cinépolis, an eye operation will be donated for every participant who reaches the summit.

Global Explorers

Students Alysha Jeans and Andrew Johnson check out the ruins of Machu Picchu on Erik's 2006 trip with Global Explorers to the Super Inca Trail. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

Continue reading "Erik Leads an Expedition in Mexico" »

October 5, 2009

Open the door to the Mountain Hardwear Office

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Take a look at the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Mark Perrilliat, Mountain Hardwear Facilities Manager

Mountain Hardwear Facilities Manager, Mark Perrilliat | Photo by Roland Dare

With an extensive background in the outdoor products industry, I came to Mountain Hardwear in 2000. This black and white photo was found in the outdoor archives. As Facilities Manager, I am in the office one minute and checking vents on the roof the next. Therefore, the durability and flexibility of the Mesa Convertible Pants work well for me. The Micro Grid Zip T happens to be my favorite color and keeps me warm without having to deal with a jacket. My favorite MHW piece is the Butter-Man ½ Zip. I coach football and basketball at El Sobrante Christian Middle School and I usually wear this piece when I'm tossing the ball around with the kids. It is also on my back for Saturday morning basketball practices at the Berkeley High School." - Mark Perrilliat, Mountain Hardwear Facilities Manager

NY Times Write Up - New Technology Found in MHW Jackets

A Winter Jacket That Charges Your Gadgets

October 2, 2009
By Rik Fairlie

Mountain Hardwear Refugium and Radiance Jackets

Available in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket | Photo Courtesy of New York Times Blog

Mountain Hardwear has developed a winter jacket with a heating element that will keep you toasty while it charges your gadgets.

Yep, that's right. Reach into the front left pocket and you'll find a power adapter that enables you to charge your iPod, digital camera, GPS device or cellphone -- no matter if you're riding a mountain bike or roaming snowy city streets. The heating and power capabilities are made possible by the addition of rechargeable lithium-ion battery and heating system developed by Ardica Technology.


Read more on New York Times Gadgetwise Blog.

October 2, 2009

The Plight of Galapagos Islands

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete Jon Bowermaster. Read more on his Blog

Galapagos

Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

Often by the time the mainstream media runs big stories about an environmental battle it's often too late. I've seen it up-close dozens of times during the past couple decades and have reported so many David-versus-Goliath stories - usually positing good-hearted indigenous peoples and international environmental groups against greedy, monolithic utility companies and strong-arming government agents - that the stories have almost become fill-in-the-blanks. (Just change the name of the indigenous tribe, the utility company and the country and the story - and outcome - are usually very similar.)

Yet despite ominous recent headlines in the Wall Street Journal ("Galapagos Under Siege"), the Times ("Can Darwin's Lab Survive Success") and UK's Independent ("Tourism, Over-Population and Overfishing Have Become the Blight of the Galapagos"), I happen to believe that the Ecuadorian archipelago will survive (even if more and more of its endemic creatures may not) and flourish. In some respects, as the standard bearer for the planet's evolutionary history, it simply must. As Alex Hearn, a marine biologist with the Charles Darwin Research Center on Santa Cruz Island told us about the Galapagos future, "if we can't get it right here, where can we?" A microcosm of the planet's wildlife, if the Galapagos loses its wildness it will feel like the end is near for the rest of our wild places.

Given my interest in man's relationship with the sea, it was hard not to go to the Galapagos for a first-hand look at exactly how we are impacting this once truly special place. Spurred by comments by the Ecuadorian president ("the Galapagos are at great risk") and UNESCO, which first declared the Galapagos a world heritage site and has now put it on an "in danger" list, we took video cameras and digital recorders and came back with a story not so much about the incredible biodiversity of its wildlife but about how man is wrestling with his presence there.

Galapagos filming

Jon Bowermaster filming in Galapagos | Photo by Fiona Stewart

The film we've made - "What Would Darwin Think?" - is nearly complete; in advance of that I wanted to share some of the stories, photos and videos brought back from several weeks of conversations and poking around.

According to a recent report by the Darwin Foundation, "Galápagos at Risk" the islands' crisis does not just stem from an unprecedented rise in tourism, but also from a change in the marketplace. "Early tourism in the Galápagos was characterized by nature-loving tourists," the report said, seeking "to learn about Darwin and see the amazing species that helped him to develop his theory of evolution." It noted that these guests were "easily accommodated by smaller, locally owned tour operators."

But, the study continued, the market expanded to include "eco-tourists," who also like to visit places like Machu Picchu, the Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania, Easter Island and the Great Barrier Reef. These tourists are "often more selective in terms of required comfort and is better served by multinational tour operators," the report said.

A consequence has been that local owners cannot compete with the foreign-run companies doing business in the Galápagos. Of the $418 million generated by tourism annually, only $63 million is estimated to enter the local economy. And of the 80 tourism boats allowed to operate in the Galápagos, only about 40 percent are locally owned. "We have to think about the people and not just the plants and animals, or it will all collapse," the report concluded.

Galapagos Video Galapagos Clip 1

While Sea Sheperd's chief cheerleader and trouble-inspirer Paul Watson is holding forth from his ship, The Farley Mowat, continuing its chase of Japanese whale hunters off Antarctica and (recently) being arrested on a thirty-year-old warrant in Portugal (where he had gone to attend a meeting of the International Whaling Commission) ... the Washington state-based environmental group's second-most visible campaign is ongoing, in the Galapagos.

Continue reading "The Plight of Galapagos Islands" »

Gear Test: Take Your Pants Off

By Shannon Davis posted on Backpacker.com

Mountain Hardwear Elkommando Kilt

The author demonstrates proper hitchhiking technique while wearing a kilt. | Photo Courtesy of Shannon Davis posted on Backpacker.com

Be bold and wear this hiking kilt on trail--you (and the ladies) will thank us!

First off, it's a kilt. Not a skirt. There were definitely a lot of "hey, cool skirt!" comments floating around. There are basically two ways to respond to this. 1) Correct that person, as I mostly chose to (the irascible approach). 2) Just say "thanks, man" (the hell cares approach). But one thing's for sure: Wearing a kilt definitely requires an attitude that's both bold and carefree. If you don't have this attitude naturally, a kilt will help you foster one along. It requires cojones.

And speaking of cojones, after I stepped out of the car, only 2.3 seconds passed before another person in our group (a woman!) lifted up my kilt. In addition to drawing attention, a kilt also apparently erases social mores. Women, at least initially, do not respect the kilt in the same way that men respect a skirt.

But how does it perform in the mountains...Read more on Backpacker.com

September 28, 2009

Going for it!


Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition


September 28, 2009 - 11:00
By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Neil on slope

Climbing to Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Back into ABC on Friday afternoon after a worthwhile acclimatisation climb to camp 2, where we slept for the night at 6750 metres.

Neil and Kinga

Neil and Kinga in Camp 2 | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

We deposited a tent, food, stoves, gas, rope and other climbing gear in readiness for our return. With camp 1 and camp 2 both now stocked, our next push will be for the summit.

Saturday and Sunday were spent eating and sleeping, and yesterday saw my second wash since arriving at the mountain.

Vegemite

And the winner is... | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Mmm, speaking of things savoury, yesterday also saw the big 'taste off' between my vegemite and Neil's evil marmite. A range of Sherpas, Tibetans and climbers were invited to participate, wth Vegemite the undisputed winner. (basecamp amusement.)

A small but strong international team of climbers made a summit push yesterday but were unsuccessful in traversing from the central summit to the main summit. This is where i've also been stopped on previous attempts.

My team's plan is to attempt to traverse from camp 3 to another ridge on the north face which cuts out the central summit and provides direct access to the main summit but it is long, crevassed and difficult climbing, so we know we'll have our work cut out for us.

We are fit and motivated and the wrather appears to be holding, so we'll start the summit push tomorrow. If all goes well, we're hoping to summit on 2 October.

Next report won't be until the 3rd or 4th. Wish us luck please.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Kenton Cool's Mountain Hardwear Everest Gear


In this video Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Kenton Cool talks about the South Col Pack, Ghost SL Sleeping Bag, Navigation Pants, and the Argon Jacket. He makes some good points explaining why this gear is perfect for the Alps. For example, " The Navigation Pants are made of stretchy, semi waterproof material with an internal gator at the bottom. The color is fantastic for the alps; it is not black. The cool color is perfect for when the sun comes up on the glaciers so you will not fry in them. They are indestructible and have a built in waistband to cinch so you don't have problems with your harness." Click on the images below for more details.

South Col Pack Ghost SL -40°
Navigation Pant Argon Jacket

September 25, 2009

Summit Success for Ueli Steck

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Makalu Map

Makalu | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Yesterday, Thursday September 24, 2009, Ueli Steck summited 8463 meter high Makalu over the normal route. The Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It lies easterly of Mount Everest at the border between Nepal and China.

Together with Robert Bösch he started on September 24 at 3 o'clock in the morning from camp 3 at 7350 meters. A lot of snow was lying. Robert Bösch returned at an altitude of approximately 7900 meters.

At about 3 o'clock in the afternoon of the same day Ueli Steck reached the summit. He descended the same day to camp 3 at 7350 meters.

Today, September 25, 2009 they were back at base camp of Makalu.

September 24, 2009

From Camp to College: A YES Success Story

YES

Royce Hughes

Royce Hughes | Photo Courtesy of YES

Royce Hughes is a young man with a future, headed off to college on a football scholarship he earned playing at the local community college. We met up with Royce, six years after attending his first summer camp with YES, to find out what the experience meant to him and how he came to be the first in his family to attend a four year university. Click here to read the rest of the story.

Click here to watch the 10th Annicersary Video.

Contact YES:
2811 Macdonald Ave.
Richmond, CA 94804
(510) 232-3032
info@yesfamilies.org
Join the mailing list here.

Mountain Hardwear Gives Back

Mountain Hardwear Gives Back to YES
Thanks to daily website visits and clicks, supporters helped raise $3,500 through Mountain Hardwear's Gives Back Program this past spring. Along with contributions from other foundations and donors, YES sent 270 low-income youth to summer camp in 2009. Click here to read more about how YES and Mountain Hardwear are partnering to make a difference in the community.

September 23, 2009

Expedition Makalu (8463m) - West Pillar Solo

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Sunday, September 20, 2009 - Makalu base camp

Ueli Steck

"The snow on the monsoon was 30 centimeters high in the vertical passages of the wall." | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

While I am writing these lines, I am sitting here, at 5250 meters over sea at Makalu base camp. Over me, the summit of Makalu, 8463 meters high. Exactly 3213 meters lie between me and my wishful dream.

Exactly one week ago I was at the foot of the west pillar. At 6700 meter I installed a camp. Fully motivated, I wanted to complete this project. I am very well prepare for it. In the morning at 3 o'clock I started to climb. I was so sure: "Steck will now climb the west pillar. Solo and without fix ropes to the summit." But then everything was different. The considerable amounts of fresh snow showed me clearly where my limits were. But I fought. I did not give up. It' not me to say so fast, that it doesn't work. I know exactly if I don't get everything out of it for myself or if I cancel the whole thing and then sit in my warm living-room, I would feel ashamed for this!

Continue reading "Expedition Makalu (8463m) - West Pillar Solo" »

September 22, 2009

Heading up! - Expedition Dispatch from Andrew Lock

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 22, 2009 - 12:25

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

The weather continues to hold at Shisha and our fingers remain crossed for more of the same.

On the 20th, Kinga and I climbed to camp 1 at 6250 metres. It was a blisteringly hot day and the hundreds of jagged ice pinnacles at the start of the climb added to the challenge as we searched for a route over and around them to access the easier glacier on the far side.

Andrew Lock - Shisha Pangma Everest

Route finding in the pinnacles. | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

Then followed a long slog up to the camp site, which we reached after about 7 hours climbing from abc. There are quite a few crevasses at that point and we exposed a big one whilst digging for a tent site, so found a more consolidated location before setting up house and moving in. A bit of an uncomfortable night followed as the altitude tested our resolve but a few ibuprofens later the sun finally rose. That was just an acclimatisation night, so we packed up and dropped down to ABC yesterday for some proper sleep.

Washing and general domestics today but tomorrow the game continues. We'll head back up the hill with more food and equipment, sleep again at camp 1 before pushing up to camp 2 at around 6800 metres. One or two nights there before returning to ABC in a few days time will hopefully complete our acclimatisation before the summit push.

Andrew Lock

ABC - hard to find good help! | Photo Courtesy of Andrew Lock

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

Mountain World Man Likes Our Runout Pants

Dougald MacDonald, past editor in chief of Rock & Ice, regular contributor to Men's Journal, Outside, Backpacker, and more likes our Runout Pants.

"Mountain Hardwear Runout climbing pants. Super-comfortable. Fit well under a harness. Look good enough to wear out to dinner--at least until you smear them with chalk and aluminum grime from your rope."
- Dougald MacDonald's Blog, themountainworld.blogspot.com


Runout Pant, perfect for climbing.

The Runout Pant has a Crag™ Canvas Body that is 100% cotton canvas. Heavy duty, durable cotton canvas "breaks in" beautifully with time and washing. Pigment dyed, peached face. 8.5 oz/yd2.

• Lots of pockets for storage
• Adjustable drawcord hidden inside hem to cinch pant leg
• UPF 50 sun protection
• Integrated webbing belt with buckle closure for easy fit adjustments
• Durable canvas fabric great for day cragging
• Inseam gusset and articulated knees for mobility
>>Where to buy

September 21, 2009

With 3 Flats and 2 Crashes, McDevitt Completes Tahoe Sierra 100

By Sean McDevitt Mountain Hardwear Design

Mountain Hardwear Employee, Sean McDevitt

Sean McDevitt lined up amongst the top riders at start of the Tahoe Sierra 100 | Photo by Annie Larkin

Bike racing is my vehicle for self exploration. In the spirit of this, I lined up at the start line of the Tahoe Sierra 100. 7 a.m. at Ice Lakes Lodge in Soda Springs, CA, I was queued up behind Tinker Juarez and regional pro strong men Dez Wilder and Kevin Smallman. Amidst whistle blows, camera flashes and much clapping, about 200 of us hurtled down the rocky and technical Soda Springs fire-road. While riding in the top 30 going into the descent, I wound my way through the pack as I warmed up to my Cannondale Scalpel. About 2 miles into a ripping descent, I flatted, pulled off and quickly fixed the flat as countless racers whizzed past me on a loamy switch back. Back on my bike I quickly spun my way through the red platted 50 milers until I flatted again and my heart sank. I hailed down a 50 miler to borrow a pump. I quickly patched a tube, pumped it up but it wouldn't hold. Thankfully, I told the racer to go on. I realized my day was done and sadly started walking back up the hill to the start and finish. This was not the day I hoped for. After a few minutes I ran into Sean Allan, running sweep on his Cannondale Rizer bike. He had tubes, CO2 and a pump. My day was saved. Even though I was an hour behind everyone, I was determined to have at least a bit of fun. After pumping my rear tire up to 50 psi I rode off.

My game was on, doing 2 wheel drifts through every corner. After maybe 20 minutes of ripping through the Sierras my rear tire washed out in left hander. Back up in seconds I pedaled furiously, determined to do something. Eventually, I found riders and passed them on a good grunt of a climb and then descended into sweet single-track of Red Star Ridge. I got a little full of myself on the descent until my front wheel ego check about ½ way down. I counted at least 3 times I said out loud "Jesus Christ Jim" as I slid past downed tree stumps at high speed.

Soon I shot onto a paved road and then to a gruesome fire-road climb but was rewarded with amazing swoopy water-barred single track of the Western States Trail. I was surprised how much technical single track there was. It was super fast, super fun but technical enough that you felt things could go terribly wrong if you weren't on your game. It is an interesting head game when you are 50ish miles out, you've flatted 3 times, wrecked twice, killed one squirrel and you know you are only half way through your day. The remainder of the ride was a blur of technical single-track, endless fire-road climbing, great views, aid stations filled with cool people, and great food. Although I finished well behind of what I wanted, I had a great day and wouldn't take it back for anything.

Tinker Juarez

Tinker Juarez crushing it! | Photo by Annie Larkin

Dez Wilder

Dez Wilder comes in 7th. | Photo by Annie Larkin

Sean McDevitt

Sean McDevitt survives the day. | Photo by Annie Larkin

September 17, 2009

Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli Free Climb the "Japanese Route"

Japanese Route

"Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face | Photo by Frank Kretschmann

THE JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA ON THE EIGER NORTH FACE HAS FINALLY BEEN FREED BY ROBERT JASPER AND ROGER SCHÄLI.
The two professional Alpinists, Robert Jasper (GER) and Roger Schäli (CH) managed to finally free climb, redpoint, the famous "Japanese Route" on the Eiger North Face. The so called "Super-Diretissima" (5.13b/8a) is now the most challenging and demanding route through the famous 1800m North Face.


Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli

Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli | Photo by Robert Jasper


Written by Mountain Hardwear Athlete Robert Jasper

For six years the Eiger and the project of redpointing the Japanese Route kept me in. Over and over again my friend Roger Schäli and myself tried to climb the two by then well known crux sections, the "Difficult Crack" and "Rote Fluh".

The "Rote Fluh" is the steepest, most difficult and most rejecting part of the entire Eiger North Face. Our final goal was to free the entire Japaner-Diretissima which heads right through the "Rote Fluh". Now - precisely timed for the 40th anniversary of the historical route which was ascended first in 1969 - we finally succeeded.

Robert Jasper

Robert Jasper | Photo by Franz Walter

>>View more photos on Flickr: Mountain Hardwear's Photostream.

JAPANESE DIRETISSIMA
1. First ascent: 15. 07- 15.08.1969
Imai, Kato, Kato, Negishi, Kubo, Amano 6,A2, 1800m
1.free ascent redpoint, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli
28.-31.08.2009 8a, M5, (10- UIAA); 1800m
Route Characteristics
- Many pitons from the Japanese Expedition Team throughout the "Rote Fluh" face
- "Rote Fluh": very good rockquality here.
- Heavy rockfall danger at the second icefeeld
- Very challenging alpine climbing with very little protection (often times bad rock quality)
- Most protections have to be placed by the climbers themselves
Minimum Equipement
- 1 set of friends und rocks
- 6 pitons including knifeblades
- 2-3 icescrews and iceclimbing gear
- 60 meter ropes and bivac equipement

Continue reading "Robert Jasper and Roger Schäli Free Climb the "Japanese Route"" »

Expedition Dispatch from Andrew Lock

2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition

September 17, 2009 - 09:23

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Andrew Lock

Mountain Hardwear - Andrew Lock

Apologies for no contact - technology issues. (Thought i'd escaped the office but alas...)

Anyway, good news. The climbing permit was granted on time and we crossed the border into Tibet on 10 September.

After a night at Xangmu we drove up the Friendship highway to Nyalam early on Friday morning to avoid the ongoing roadworks along the way. A huge amount of work has been done since my last visit to this area with smooth bitumen making the journey quick and painless.

We spent 2 nights in Nyalam for acclimatization as the the town is situated just below 4000 metres. On our first day we climbed nearby hills to 4650 m and on the second to 5000 m to push the acclimatisation process a little.

On the 13th we drove to Chinese basecamp at an altitude of 5000 metres where we camped for 3 nights before trekking to advance basecamp yesterday. ABCis 5600 metres.

Whilst in Chinese bc, Carlos Pauner, an old friend from Kanchenjunga in 2003, arrived by horse from advance basecamp after falling from rocks and breaking several ribs when climbing to camp 1 a few days ago. For him the climbing season is over.

For us the expedition is just beginning and we are keen to get onto the mountain. We've all picked up headcolds and other ailments from passing through rather squalid villages but hope to have these under control soon.

Puja ceremony tomorrow and possibly onto the hill the next day.

For further coverage on 2009 Shisha Pangma Everest Expedition visit: www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/lock/ or www.Andrew-Lock.com

September 16, 2009

Expedition Makalu - Listen to Ueli Steck at camp (6700 meters)

Monday, September 14 - Makalu base camp

Play Ueli Steck.mp3

The voice record is in Swiss German. The following is the translation:

I left BC to Makalu west pillar on Saturday morning at 00.30 am. I ascended directly to my small tent at 6700 meters. Basically it is more of an overstepping than an ascent. The way to the actual west pillar passes over the two Jumeaux. Two summits: one of 6220 meters, then down and over the second one of 6462 meters before coming to the Makalu. A long way with a 20 kg heavy backpack. For the trek to my tent I needed a solid 9 hours. Tired from the long ascent, I arrived a little late for mid-morning snack to my camp. The tent still looked out the snow. I had my doubts that I would ever find it again after the heavy snowfall of last week. For the time being I was happy to find everything intact.

Continue reading "Expedition Makalu - Listen to Ueli Steck at camp (6700 meters)" »

Open the door to the Mountain Hardwear Office

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Amelia McAndrew

Amelia McAndrew walking into the Mountain Hardwear Office located at Ford Point in Richmond, CA | Photo by Roland Dare

" My life revolves around being active. Therefore, I look for quality pieces that meet the demands of my activities. A few Mountain Hardwear products I tend to wear the most are Stimulus Jacket (not shown below), Women's Transition Jacket, and the Monkey Woman Jacket. The Stimulus Jacket is perfect for a foggy bike ride in the Berkeley hills, while the Transition Jacket is stretchy enough for trail running, and the soft Monkey Jacket is like having a bear hug you after a long surf session. The Women's High Step Pants are usually in my pack to slip on after a swim, surf or for my ride home from the gym. I love the Scrambler Pack because of the multiple elastic webs for holding my flip-flops and wet bathing suit. It is a super light bag which is perfect for biking to the local rock climbing gym." - Amelia McAndrew, Web Marketing Coordinator

September 15, 2009

Ultimate Wave Tahiti, Surfing's First IMAX 3D Film!

Jon Bowermaster reporting in, from Moorea, on the scene of first ever surfing IMAX 3D filming currently being shot in Tahiti and French Polynesia.

Ultimate Wave Tahiti Inside Look - Kelly Slater

Wait until you see these IMAX 3D images of Kelly Slater and Raimana van Bastolaer surfing out of the tube at Tahiti's Teahupo'o - arguably the wildest, most dangerous, most perfect surf wave on the planet - projected eighty feet high on a giant screen near you (coming, February 2010). In Moorea and Tahiti I had a peek at some of the rushes dumped onto a fifteen-inch computer screen and literally had to step back from even that small screen, overwhelmed by the real feel of Raimana - Tahiti's godfather of surfing - jumping to his feet on the board, peeking back over this shoulder to judge the whereabouts of a monstrous roller heading towards him, the splash of the clear-blue South Pacific washing over the lens and the grim/exultant look on his face as he realizes he's successfully up and not going to get washing-machined by a fifty-foot wave. Look for my story about the 'making of' surfing's first IMAX 3D film - Ultimate Wave Tahiti - in December's National Geographic Adventure and I imagine for a trailer soon at the Stephen Low Company's website.

"That may be the greatest shot I've ever made!" says an exuberant Stephen Low as he clambers onto the Zodiac, followed closely by his 145-pound IMAX 3D camera in its gold-tinted waterproof housing. We are bobbing in mild seas just off Moorea, the island I nominate as the most beautiful in French Polynesia, spending a long, glorious day whale watching.

Continue reading "Ultimate Wave Tahiti, Surfing's First IMAX 3D Film!" »

Powderwhore 'FLAKES' Trailer

Shot entirely in HD, this hour long showcase of last winters adventures travels from Patagonia, The Wasatch Mountains, Haines, Valdez, The San Juans and Aspen. For tour dates, to pre-order DVD's, and to view the trailer visit www.powderwhore.com

For more information contact Noah@powderwhore.com (801-647-9071)

September 14, 2009

2nd Beta Video for Triple Crown Bouldering Series

The Beta - Six Feet Under
By Andrew Kornylak

The Beta - Six Feet Under from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

FiveTen climber Brion Voges of Chattanooga, Tennessee drops the beta on "Six Feet Under" (V5), and "Instinct" (V7), two classic lines at The Stone Fort, near Chattanooga - the last leg of the Triple Crown Bouldering Series.

September 2, 2009

Babu Sherpa: 21 Hours on Top of Mount Everest

Babu Sherpa

In May 1999, Mountain Hardwear built a custom expedition tent for Babu Chiri Sherpa in just days. That same month, Babu arrived in the Himalayas, summited Everest and proceeded to camp on top for 21 hours. This impressive act has never been repeated.

Today, our friends at Explorersweb.com generously delivered us the rare and historic video footage of Babu's feat. Hold your breath and enjoy!

Expedition Makalu (8463m) - Arrival at Base Camp

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

September 1, 2009 - Arrival at base camp (5250 meters above sea level)

Ueli Steck - Expedition Makalu

A humid and wet trek to basecamp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Finally we reached the foot of the mountain. The last 10 days of trekking was not always very comfortable. The monsoon is still fully in his element. It was a humid and wet trek. Luckily the bloodsucker didn't bother us too much. I arrived at base camp with five of them.

Today we installed us here at 5250 meters. Part of our equipment is still at 4745 meters. The last stage of the trek takes you over the Barun glacier. For this ascent we have seven Sherpas who help us to carry up our material. These are about ten loads of 25 kg which have to be carried to the base camp.

For Robert, Andy and me the phase of acclimatisation starts. Röbi and Andy will try the route which was first ascended in 1955. My plan is still to go for the west pillar solo, alpine style. Much will depend on the conditions and the weather. We will not be the first ones to fail but our motivation is big. We are looking forward to the time at the mountain. First of all we will install ourselves properly at BC and enjoy a couple of days of rest. Kaji, our cook will spoil us with his culinary skills.

Robert Bösch and Andy Wälchli

Robert Bösch and Andy Wälchli relaxing at base camp. | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

At the moment the weather forecast is quite unstable. This was predictable. We intentionally left early. The weather should get more stable by mid September. Until then we will have to accept the humidity of the monsoon. In the meantime our bodies will have time to adjust to the altitude. As soon as the weather gets steady, we will be ready to move higher. From mid October the winds at 8000 meters are mostly too strong to have a chance to summit. We hope to summit Makalu between mid September and mid October.

We hope for the best!

Mountain Hardwear Employee Helps Rebuild A School In Tibet

kids_carlos.jpg

Photo Courtesy of Scott Harrison

Carlos Toste, a member of the Mountain Hardwear Warranty family, is in Tibet for two weeks to help rebuild an elementary school. As you can see, the kids can't wait for Carlos! They are all very excited about their new school.

September 1, 2009

Ardica Design Contest!

Ardica Contest

San Francisco based Ardica announces the first annual Ardica "Power To The People" Design Contest to develop products that are compatible with their revolutionary technology. Ardica wants to see where you can go! What can Ardica Enabled do for you?

Ardica is the leading developer of miniaturized portable power systems. Their latest introduction, the Moshi Power System, generates 40W of power from a lightweight, flexible and portable planar array of lithium ion batteries. This system can power and charge a wide variety of electronic devices while simultaneously delivering comforts like heat and sound to garments, bags and more. Find out more about the contest here.

Mountain Hardwear uses this device to heat your core and charge your electronics. This technology is found in the Refugium Jacket and Women's Radiance Jacket.

August 28, 2009

2009 First Ascent of Karim Sar (6180m)

Pat Deavoll's Blog

Pat Deavoll writes, from her perspective, an account of her Karim Sar(6189m) ascent.

On June 5th 2009 Paul Hersey and I arrived in Islamabad to discover security in the city at an all time high. Soldiers with AK47's, roadblocks and a wary population had emptied the streets and our anxious guide Baig (Nazir Sabir Expeditions) saw us as a potential target for every kidnapper, suicide bomber and insurgent in Central Asia. He wouldn't let us out of his sight.

We drove north up the Karakoram Highway against an endless tide of refugees fleeing the Swat Valley, Baig breathing a nervous sigh of relief when we reach the relative safety of Gilgit. Three days later we were ensconced at basecamp beside the Shilinbar Glacier, under the south face of Karim Sar. The face was a confusing mass of steep snow slopes, hanging glaciers and granite rock bands culminating in the summit ice cap. With an elevation of 2600m, it's was a daunting sight...

Read her personal account here: www.patdeavoll.co.nz

August 27, 2009

"SoLa: Louisiana Water Stories" On Good Morning America

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Jon BowerMaster

Louisiana Water Stories

WATCH THE TRAILER

We're just wrapping up the editing of a beautiful, provocative film about Southern Louisiana - "SoLa, Louisiana Water Stories" - about man's relationship with water in a part of the world where everywhere you look you're surrounded by bayou, swamp or wetlands, the Mississippi River or Gulf of Mexico. Home to the most unique and vital culture in America, every Cajun has a story - or two, three or more - about ... water.

Today too many of those stories are negative. SoLa's waterways are home to some serious environmental problems, including oil and gas spills, petrochemical waste, fertilizer run-off from its neighbors and coastal erosion that is disappearing twenty-five square miles of Southern Louisiana each year.

Today between 8 and 9 a.m. EST - August 27 - "ABC's Good Morning America" and Sam Champion are excerpting from our film, taking their own look at one of the most serious and mysterious of problems, a growing Dead Zone in the Gulf of Mexico.


KEEP UP WITH JON AT HIS BLOG NOTES FROM SEA LEVEL AND AT JONBOWERMASTER.COM


Email Jon at: jonbowermaster@yahoo.com

August 24, 2009

What is keeping Ueli Steck warm in Makalu?

Notes from Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Mountain Hardwear Athlete Ueli Steck
Mountain Hardwear Alpinist, Ueli Steck has packed his bags to conquer Makalu with the following Mountain Hardwear gear.
Sub Zero and Compressor
Sub Zero Jacket
Designed for cold weather climbing and mountaineering, 650-fill goosedown with Taslan reinforced abrasion areas take on the weather and your pack with ease.
Hooded Compressor PL Jacket
Superlight, PrimaLoft® ECO fill provides excellent warmth-to-weight ratio, insulates when wet, compresses easily, and is good for the planet. Specifically designed for alpine pursuits where moisture and weight are factors.
Hooded Power Stretch and Compressor Pant
Power Stretch Jacket
An abrasion-resistant jacket with the stretch, warmth, and breathability of a fleece, and the protection of a soft shell. Treated with an advanced surface-fusion polymer for wind- and water-resistance. Wear alone or use as a mid-layer.
Compressor Pant
Superlight, PrimaLoft® ECO fill is high-loft, warm, and good for the earth. Specifically designed for backcountry activities where moisture and weight are factors.
Phantom 32
Phantom 32°
Our most popular down bag, the Phantom™ 32 is a really light, warm and compact two-season sleeping bag. The Phantom 32 is built to a snug mummy fit from Superlight 15 denier fabric and insulated with 800-fill down.
Ueli Steck will also be using the the Bunker Expedition tent."
Absolute Zero Mitt
Absolute Zero Mitt
3 layer Conduit™, Duraguard™ palm, Keprotec® reinforcements and a warm, ThermicMicro™ liner mitt make our top-of-the line mountaineering mitt essential gear for high altitude and deep cold. Keprotec® reinforcements and a rappel-tough Duraguard™ palm handle rocks, ropes and ice in freezing conditions. The removable liner mitt has an improved fit with increased articulation and snug elastic at the wrist to hold in heat and increase warmth.
Quark Jacket and Belay T
Quark Jacket
The super lightweight, super breathable, highly waterproof Mountain Hardwear Men's Quark Jacket revolutionizes technical shells. Using only super soft tricot and a Conduit laminate, this ten-ounce jacket cuts out the middle man without sacrificing protection. You'll barely notice the Quark Jacket on your back or in your pack, but you can't ignore the 20K-rated waterproof coating and welded seams keeping you dry during an alpine storm.
Belay T Short Sleeve
Fast drying, wicking and soft. Seams rotated from pressure points and flat lock seams for comfort. 88% Supplex nylon, 12% elastane jersey. Lightweight, soft hand and wicking finish. 4.6 oz/yd2.

Open the door to the Mountain Hardwear Office

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the "Hardwear Crew" Tab located on theMountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Testing Tents

Sean McDevitt in the "rain room" testing the Spring 2010 tent designs | Photo by Roland Dare

" I am a picky person; so much so that I decided to become a product designer/developer. There are a few Mountain Hardwear pieces I regard as essential. The Matterhorn Convertible Pant is for casual, comfy goodness. They have a nice long inseam unlike the Magnum PI shorts, if you know what I mean. For running and biking in the winter time, the Stimulus Jacket goes everywhere I go. After a long bike ride, all I want are my Molokai Flips. Shown below, every Mountain Hardwear tent that comes with our Water Tight Guarantee has passed our 24 hour rain room test. I test it, so you don't have to." - Sean McDevitt, Mountain Hardwear Design

August 21, 2009

Search for Ice Warrior Expedition Members

Polar Explorer and Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Jim McNeill, announces the Search for Ice Warrior Expedition Members!

IW training Polaris

Polaris Training | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

Defined as the furthest point from land on the Arctic Ocean and therefore its centre, the Northern Pole of Inaccessibility remains the last truly significant place in the Polar Regions, yet to be reached by mankind. It is over two hundred miles further than the Geographic North Pole and one of four recognised north poles.

Jim McNeill

Jim calling "footdown copy" | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

Jim is looking for 28 highly dedicated and committed people to take part in a comprehensive and intensive training programme to take on one of four 200 mile legs, pushing the route across the Arctic Ocean. The training includes everything which makes for a competent and safe polar traveller and takes place in Svalbard, Norway.

Along the route "crucial datasets" will be gathered to benchmark the condition of the ocean for the NASA funded National Snow and Ice Data Center (NSIDC) scientists, led by Walt Meier. These deliver the reality of climate change and make the whole expedition worthwhile and purposeful.

The journey itself is a complicated logistical problem with the need for highly remote fuel and food caches to enable the exchange of teams and resupplies and allow scientists to conduct further experiments.

Snowholing at 80 degrees north

Snowholing at 80 degrees north with Bellsie, Richard, and Andrea. | Photo Courtesy of Jim McNeill

People wishing to get involved should visit the website www.ice-warrior.com absorb the details and contact Jim directly at jim@ice-warrior.com.

"Part of any expedition is to raise the necessary funds, so we teach people how to do this, give them all the materials necessary, guide them through the process and provide the media justification for sponsorship. In other words you don't need a fat cheque book but the passion and desire to put in the effort and time to make it happen. I'm looking for highly motivated individuals who want to go way beyond their comfort zones and push the boundaries of endurance in a wholly worthy and justifiable cause." - Jim McNeill

Expedition Makalu (8463m) - west pillar solo

By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Makalu Map

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Once again Ueli Steck is aiming to fulfill a great goal. This time it is not a first ascent which stands in the focus. His plan is to summit Makalu on the west pillar solo and without any kind of aid at the mountain. The west pillar really is a great route on a mountain over 8000 meters. To ascend solo such a route needs a lot of courage and experience. And this is what it is about in alpinism. The courage to try something, to deal with a possible success or a possible failure and to face up with this task.

Up to today only a few alpinists succeed to climb solo a difficult and demanding route on a peak over 8000 meters. Pierre Béghin, Tomasz Humar or Reinhold Messner are alpinists, who were able to fulfill this dream. The exposure on this height is enormous and the psychological pressure immense. From 6000 meters upwards you get yourself in an area, where human being is completely left alone. In an age of satellite telephone you can be saved by helicopter from the south or north pole. As from 6000 meters a rescue by helicopter is not possible anymore. A rescue by alpinists is - on an exposed ridge such as the west pillar of Makalu - practically impossible.

Ueli Steck wants to try something, what no one before him has achieved so far. The preparations for the Makalu Expedition were successful. Ueli Steck doesn't want to rely on others. He must and wants to go new ways. He wants to push the limits, in order to reach the summit.

Acclimatization
Ueli Steck just returned from the Gasherbrum II expedition at the beginning of August. He travels to Nepal pretty well acclimatized. From Kathmandu a plane will bring them to Tumlingtar. After they will trek about 10 days before reaching base camp of Makalu.

The weather conditions will decide when a summit push will be reasonable. In this time of the year the air is more dry but colder. The winds are an important element and not to underestimate.

Nepal

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

Read about the History of Makalu

Continue reading "Expedition Makalu (8463m) - west pillar solo" »

August 19, 2009

Powderwhore Productions 5th Telemark Ski Ski Film 'FLAKES'

We spend most of the year chasing, skiing and celebrating these wonderful frozen crystals that fall in deep quantities. The rest of the time, we create moving pictures to document the incredible experiences that winter provides. FLAKES showcases the deep and light powder from around the world that our audience has come to expect, blended together with the often flaky characters who thrive on this wintery existence.

Flakes

Photo by Jay Beyer

Breaking trail into the backcountry with today's most talented telemark skiers, we used slide-cams, remote helicopters and headlamps to bring our creation home in a new light and perspective. Nick Devore, Will Cardamone, Andy Jacobsen and Andy Rosenberg expose Haines, Alaska, after being dumped on a glacier for a week long expedition. We spend one perfect afternoon of powder skiing in Patagonia beneath Cerro Fitzroy. Jake Sakson makes a statement with his breakthrough performance as the clear up -and-comer in the freeriding tele scene. Go behind the scenes of how the other half lives with 'Powderwhore Cribs' featuring Nick Devore humbly dwelling in his teepee. Jason West finally makes a jaw dropping appearance displaying his affinity for catching serious air. World Champions Megan Michelson and Paige Brady are the few and the proud women not afraid to push the limits and claim their powderwhoredom. The big lines of Valdez, Alaska, take a slashing from the fast and fluid turns of Chris Erickson and his helmet cam. And yes, there is plenty of the same old deep face slapping powder skiing from Jonah and Noah Howell.

Shot entirely in HD, this hour long showcase of last winters adventures travels from Patagonia, The Wasatch Mountains, Haines, Valdez, The San Juans and Aspen. For tour dates, to pre-order DVD's, and to view the trailer visit www.powderwhore.com

For more information contact Noah@powderwhore.com (801-647-9071)

August 18, 2009

31 Days to Win a Mountain Hardwear Pack!

Bookmark it! Play every day, your luck may change tomorrow!
It's that time again. The days are getting shorter, and you only have 31 of them to win one our street-tough packs - featuring bold new colors for 09. Built tough, these packs can take a beating, but thanks to fleece-lined pockets, your gear doesn't have to.

Here's how it works: Fill out the form on http://packaday.mountainhardwear.com and click Gimme that pack! to find out if you've won. You can enter once a day through September 17, 2009, so come back often for the most chances to get a pack.

Win a Mountain Hardwear Backpack!

August 17, 2009

Eight Blind Students Summit Kilimanjaro

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Erik Weihenmayer

As Erik's friend Steve Ackerman puts it, "The most profound and effective leadership is inspiring others to do great things by your own example of doing great things."

This past June, Kevin Cherilla, the Base Camp manager for Erik's historic Mt. Everest expedition, engaged in another remarkable project: guiding eight blind students from the Foundation for Blind Children in Phoenix on a climb of Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa.

Summit Kilimanjaro

The FBC team stands on the summit of Kilimanjaro. | Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

This recent expedition was reminiscent of the 2005 Kilimanjaro expedition that Erik organized with blind adults, when five blind people from four different continents stood on the Roof of Africa. Erik was joined by Douglas Sidialo, who lost his sight in the 1998 US Embassy bombing in Nairobi and who became the first blind African to reach Kilimanjaro's summit. So inspired by the climb and his life goal to promote peace and forgiveness, Douglas decided to bike the length of Africa, 7500 miles, from Cairo, Egypt to Cape Town, South Africa, and was sponsored by Erik.

Before and after the 2005 expedition, several visits were made to schools serving blind children in the Arusha region of East Africa. The experiences provided first-hand insight into the pressing need for better educational resources for blind children. As a result, Erik and others, including Unilever CEO Paul Polman, founded the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust.

The Trust, which works in conjunction with the Perkins School for the Blind in Boston, gives children in East Africa access to the technologies that help them to lead more fulfilling lives and become more integral parts of their communities. Some of these projects include the distribution of Perkins Braillers, repair of the machines, Braille literacy training and teachers to work with blind students. Both the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust and the Perkins School strongly believe that empowering blind and visually impaired individuals worldwide is dependent upon education and literacy, giving blind children the life skills they need to succeed.

Mwereni Integrated School for the Blind

Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

A blind student at the Mwereni Integrated School for the Blind in Moshi, Tanzania reads a letter in Braille. The 2009 expedition raised funds to donate Braille typewriters, canes and magnifiers to the school.

Although both the 2005 and 2009 expeditions of blind and sighted climbers are tremendous accomplishments, the reach goes far beyond the physical achievement. The Foundation for Blind Children team raised tens of thousands of dollars and in turn visited the same schools, attesting to how the Kilimanjaro Blind Trust is profoundly impacting the blind children of East Africa.

Mwerini Integrated School for the Blind

Photo Courtesy of Erik Weihenmayer

At the Mwerini Integrated School for the Blind, a student types on a donated braille typewriter. The school is only one of a few for the blind in Tanzania and serves 47 blind students.

Everest Camp 2 Jigsaw Puzzle

Time yourself and challenge your friends to conquer this 250-piece Mount Everest Camp 2 jigsaw puzzle on Adventure.NationalGeographic.com

Everest Camp 2 Jigsaw Puzzle

Photograph by Brad Jackson

August 11, 2009

Expedition Gasherbrum II (8035m) - Final report

August 6, 2009
By Patricia Bamert, Office of Ueli Steck

Ueli Steck

Expedition Gasherbrum II | Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

A little bit earlier than scheduled my wife and I returned back to Switzerland. So I have enough time to pack the rest for the upcoming Makalu expedition and to get some rest, before I will definitively leave for Nepal on August 20, 2009.

I am very happy about the Gasherbrum expedition. Though Gasherbrum II is a an easy peak to climb and the weather was very unstable, with high winds and a lot of precipitations, I could celebrate my first ascent on a peak over 8000 meters. Celebrate is not really the right word to use: with 5 minutes peak stop and the upcoming descent back to camp 2, my euphoria was quite modest. A lot of snow shaped the season. I left camp 2 at 6500 meters on July 9 towards summit. I struggled through deep snow, which was either knee or hip deep. 12 hours I dug myself through the snow. On the summit pyramid I was about to give up. "What is this all about," I told myself after hours of tracking through the deep snow. I can't be so far anymore to the summit, I thought, and mountaineering is just a matter of will. "Move on," was my device.

Continue reading "Expedition Gasherbrum II (8035m) - Final report" »

August 7, 2009

Open the door to the Mountain Hardwear Office

Do Mountain Hardwear employees wear what they sell? The answer is yes. Check out the Mountain Hardwear Facebook Page (Seattle Store, Portland Store) to see what Hardwear gear we wear. We look forward to your feedback and encourage you to share your favorite MHW gear.

Hardwear Women

August 6, 2009

Rosie's Girls - Building Strong Girls!

The Rosie's Girls will be visiting Mountain Hardwear tomorrow 9am & 12!

During a three-week summer camp, 6th - 8th grade girls learn about and apply skills in carpentry, welding, fire fighting, horticulture and other technical trades. The curriculum includes creative expression such as mask making and journaling. Participants engage in a ropes course, self-defense and other fun physical challenges. "A Girl's World" activities allow the girls to explore issues such as gender roles, body image and social pressure. Because Richmond is the site of the Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park, the girls learn about that legacy first- hand by meeting with local heroes, and working in historic settings. All the girls work together on a community service project for a local organization.

Click here to view the East Bay Rosie's Girls Flyer or visit www.Rosiesgirls.org
Contact Don Lau for more information at DLau@ymcaeastbay.org

Watch this inspiring video from the Vermont session.

August 5, 2009

Outdoor Retailer Summer 09 - Hydration Pack Highlight

Jason Miller reviews the all new Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10 on Feedthehabit.com

With all the hydration packs currently on the market, there are only a handful that I can totally recommend (Deuter comes to mind). But, the new Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10/18/26 hydration pack lineup looks like a great foray into the market. The best feature is the frame sheet, dubbed HardWave, which looks like an accordion going top-to-bottom for a back-conforming fit, but still providing torsional rigidity. Another bonus of this design is its ability to conform to the contours of your back while providing excellent breathability.

An additional innovation on this pack is the OTF (On-the-Fly) Compression system that allows you to cinch down the entire pack from the hip. This ingenious design has long been needed in the market. I always complain when packs don't have compression straps to cinch the load, but this one takes simple compression straps to the next level by allowing you to cinch the entire load down from the waistbelt. Capacity is 600 cu. in. and weight is 1 lb. 4 oz. with an MSRP of $80

View Mountain Hardwear Fluid 10 photos here: Feedthehabit.com
Visit MountainHardwear.com to view Backpacks.

July 31, 2009

The 25,000 Dollar Question: What's the Price of Adventure?

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Fredrick Wilkinson | Blog The Nameless Creature.

Rescuers boarding a Black Hawk

Rescuers boarding a Black Hawk during a SAR in the winter of 2007. Although the New Hampshire Air National Guard volunteers their time for rescues, they are frequently deployed overseas and unavailable, necessitating more costly measures. | Photo Courtesy of Fredrick Wilkinson

It's fair to say Scott Mason bit off a little more than he could chew.

In April, the Eagle Scout embarked on an ambitious one day traverse of the northern Presidential range in New Hampshire's White Mountains. Early into his hike, he twisted an ankle, but chose to continue. A few miles later, Mason re-considered and opted for a quicker route back to the road, only to find the trail blocked by numerous streams swollen by spring snow melt.

While the young hiker settled down for an uncomfortable night without a sleeping bag, ensolite pad, or tent, a search effort was launched. His parents reported him missing, and soon New Hampshire Fish and Game officers, aided by an army of volunteers, were combing the mountains. A helicopter was brought in from neighboring Maine. Finally, after three long days and nights of difficult back-country travel, Mason reversed his route and rendezvoused with a search party not far from the summit of Mount Washington. When he was reunited with his parents, several network television crews and a phalanx of reporters were on hand to capture the drama.

It appeared that the Mason SAR had reached a happy conclusion. The boy was found, alive, and while he had certainly made a serious error in deciding to continue into a remote area after spraining his ankle, he also exercised some good judgment that allowed him to emerge from the experience unscathed. The embarrassment at making the A-section of the Boston Globe and being on the evening news seemed like the right dose of punishment to ensure that he would learn from his mistakes and mature to become a better prepared outdoorsman. The New Hampshire Fish and Game Department, meanwhile, got to bask in some positive PR. And dozens of volunteers got to skip work for the day and play hero.

Then came the fallout: two weeks ago, Mason received a bill for $25,238 from the State of New Hampshire. "It was his negligence that led to him getting into that predicament," Major Tim Acerno of the New Hampshire Fish and Game recently said, adding that a helicopter used in the search significantly increased the cost of the mission. Mason has until August 9th to pay settle up or challenge the bill in a court of law. His family has declined to comment further on the matter.

Continue reading "The 25,000 Dollar Question: What's the Price of Adventure?" »

July 29, 2009

Learn to Climb at UCLIMB!

UClimb

UCLIMB is a fun event dedicated to bringing people across the country closer to the outdoors. Learn to climb in a comfortable small-group setting with other amateur climbers. Professional instructors will guide you through the basics of climbing, safety and conservation. This weekend adventure is ideal introduction to the world of rock climbing.

Click here to learn more about UCLIMB.

New River Gorge, WV - August 1-2
Red River Gorge, KY - September 12-13

Enjoy a weekend of camping and camaraderie. Learn climbing techniques, how to use climbing gear, voice commands, knot tying, belaying, and etiquette. Have fun and climb hard!

July 20, 2009

Kiwi Woman Bags Unclimbed Pakistani Peak

Pat Deavoll completes first ascent of Karim Sar, a 6,180-meter peak in Pakistan's Karakorum Range. Read an account of Pat's climb on Climbing.com.

Karim Sar

Karim Sar (6,180 meters) as seen from the Baltar Glacier area to the north. Photo Pat Deavoll Collection

Pat Deavoll
Deavoll racking up | Photo Pat Deavoll Collection
Karim Sar route
The upper south side of Karim Sar, with the route from high camp (5,100m) to the summit marked in blue. | Photo Pat Deavoll Collection, Intotherocks.net

July 17, 2009

Gear Test:The Shirt off our Backs

Associate Editor Shannon Davis learns to love his outdoors-centric bowling shirt!

Shannon Davis

Shannon Davis, hard at work with beer and watermelon for backup.

Online Editor Anthony Cerretani extolled the virtues of his baby-vomit-proof North Face suite of shirts. In Part 2, Associate Editor Shannon Davis tries out the bowling-shirt-esque Mountain Hardwear Wicked Snap ($40, 6 oz.).

Read more at Backpacker.com

Wicked Snap Shirt

Mountain Hardwear's WICKED SNAP SHIRT
Koolknit™ wicks moisture, dries quickly and keeps you cool. Ideal for all high energy activities. Check it out here.

July 15, 2009

YES is Making a Difference

YES

By Eric Aaholm, Youth Enrichment Strategies (YES) Executive Director

Youth Enrichment Strategies (YES) is a Richmond, California non-profit agency that enriches the lives of low-income children and families by bringing them to outdoor summer and family camps. Since 1999, YES has provided opportunities for thousands of Richmond and West Contra Costa County children ages 8 to 16, by having them attend summer camps all over Northern California.

In 2004, YES started weekend Family Camps for kids and their parents at YMCA Camp Loma Mar near Half Moon Bay, California. Outdoor camps provide an incredible opportunity for local kids and families to establish a connection with nature, with loved ones, and with themselves through a myriad of recreational and life-skill activities. Camps give participants the opportunity to find respite and joy in settings that are both safe and supportive - conditions that are often lacking in some of their Richmond neighborhoods where poverty and violence can dictate day-to-day life. Check out YES's 10th anniversary video "Camp, Connection, Community" by visiting http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFrbU6Jtbd0.

For the past four years, YES has been a proud grant recipient of Mountain Hardwear's Gives Back program and looks forward to involving Mountain Hardwear employees with volunteer opportunities in their own backyard. This fall, YES will offer two Family Camps to children and families from Peres and Verde Elementary Schools in Central and North Richmond. Both Alex Baires and Ryan Hodgkin from Mountain Hardwear are planning to volunteer at the camps.

Baires attended YES's 10th Anniversary annual dinner in May and speaks highly of the organization. "YES is truly making a difference in the very city Mountain Hardwear calls home by introducing community members to nature and the outdoors. The youth and families that YES servers do not have many opportunities, if any, to enjoy the outdoors so I am especially appreciative by YES's mission and ability to get youth outside and away from the daily routine. It's exciting to be able to support a local non-profit that falls in line with Mountain Hardwear's philosophy and values."

To learn more about how to get involved, visit www.yesfamilies.org or contact Eric Aaholm at eric@yesfamilies.org / 510-232-3032.

July 13, 2009

Summit success for Ueli Steck at Gasherbrum II

By Ueli Steck

Photo Courtesy of Ueli Steck

July 9, 2009

Almost exactly three years after in 2006, I summited the east summit of Gasherbrum II (7772m), I reached the main summit of 8035m high Gasherbrum II. In 2006 Hans Mitterer, Cedric Hählen and I first ascended - coming from the Chinese side - a new route. It was the first route from the north side.

After my wife Nicole and I spent two months in the States climbing, we flew to Pakistan on June 8, 2009. In America I red pointed the legendary route „Golden Gate" at El Capitan. This was another success in my career as a professional alpinist. I nearly missed being the first person to climb a route on sight at the monolith of granite in the Yosemite National Park. I fell off a crack in a relatively simple pitch. Several pitches in the 10th grade of difficulty I climbed all in the first try. Rock climbing legends such as Yuji Hirayama or Tommy Caldwell needed different tries, to climb these difficult passages.

Now the situation is completely different. For my preparation and acclimatisation I climb Gasherbrum II main summit. It is my first peak of a mountain over 8000 meters. In autumn I would like to fulfil my long lasting project and climb a mountain over 8000 meters over a technical demanding route solo.

Continue reading "Summit success for Ueli Steck at Gasherbrum II" »

July 9, 2009

Team Lumber Liquidators Win Adventure TEAM Challenge

Erik Weihenmayer, Blind Adventurer and Team Lumber
Click here to visit Erik's Website

The race kicked off with a brisk swim across the mighty Colorado River to a raft waiting on the other side. Teams then piled into the raft, flipped it and climbed back in. The clock stopped when each team successfully beached their boat back on the near shore. The fastest teams were not necessarily the strongest swimmers or paddlers, but rather those with the best strategy in navigating the current, and using the eddy along the shore to their advantage.

Race organizer, Ian Adamson, began his introductory remarks with a reminder, "Teamwork is the hallmark of adventure racing. As individuals, no team is faster than its slowest member, but as a team, you are much stronger."

Erik and Team Lumber

Erik and his teammates paddle hard to the finish of the prologue on Day 1. | Photo Courtesy of Erik

The following two days took athletes by mountain bike, raft, and by foot deep into the Colorado wilderness as they navigated through a series of checkpoints. The level of teamwork was apparent as paraplegic athletes gave directions to blind athletes, who in return, helped push their special one-off hand cycles up steep hills. Teams used specially modified bungee cords to tow one-offs and even runners; this is a technique often used in adventure racing which enables a tired team member to rest while the other keeps up the pace.

Continue reading "Team Lumber Liquidators Win Adventure TEAM Challenge" »

July 2, 2009

Ravens Crack

By Sam Magro, Photographer/Guide

Of the routes that went up over the past few months the first winter ascent of Ravens Crack was the highlight. Stephen Koch and I skied in at 4am in January climbed 600' of ice (Prospector Falls WI4) and steep snow to the base of the Ravens Crack. There we embarked on 1,200' of spectacular sustained mixed climbing topping out at WI5 M7. We didn't complete the climb the first go and returned 2 weeks later to complete the route in a 22 hour round trip day. The route has some history so if you want to put it on the blog I would like to include that as well

I came back to Bozeman this year on Thanksgiving Day after 2 months of cragging in Kentucky and Tennesee. It was a drastic change from my standard West Coast rock n road trip. Primarily the rock is all cragging with no multi-pitch or marathon days. I was missing the long days and longed to be back in MT among the mountains.

While I was climbing on steep sand stone pockets and the infamous cracks of the T-wall, my Montana Brethren was starting to scrape around on alpine ice. I was back in town for less than a week when Aaron Thrasher and myself decided to try a new mixed line on the north face of?????? The idea was hatched and a date was planned to head deep in to the Beartooth Mountains. The weekend came and along with it a brutal cold snap of -10 in town which would be around -20 on the north face of ???? Having the luxury of being locals we simply opted to wait for prime conditions.

It came one week later just before the Bozeman Ice Festival. This round we invited my brother Whit to join. We got to the trailhead by 8pm and went straight to bed. The temps were quite pleasant and the amount of snow fall was minimal enough to merit using shoes on the initial approach.

We awoke pre-dawn and by 5 am were hiking up East Rose Bud canyon in the fading light of the massive moon.

Beartooth Mountains, MT

Sam Magro climbing frozen moss and thin ice on FA of Moon Burn (WI4, M5, 300m) Beartooth Mountains, MT | Photo by Aaron Thrasher

Raven Crack

Sam Magro entering the crux roof pitch on first known winter ascent of Raven Crack on Prospector Mountain of Death Canyon, Tetons, Wyoming | Photo by Stephen Koch

Raven Crack ascent

Sam Magro nearing the end of a long day on first winter ascent of Raven Crack in Death Canyon, Tetons, Wyoming | Photo by Stephen Koch

Beartooth Mountains, WY

Whit Magro on FA of Golden Throat, Beartooth Mountains, WY | Photo by Sam Magro

Golden Graham Wall

Justin Griffin on pitch 2 of the Golden Graham Wall, Beartooth Mountains, WY | Photo by Sam Magro

June 30, 2009

Operation Denali Mission Complete!

All six Operation Denali team members pose with a guide June 9 at a place named Edge of the World, located near the team's 14,000-foot high campsite.

Operation Denali

Operation Denali Edge of the World | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

In some ways climbing Denali was exactly what a team of injured veterans expected - it was an arduous climb riddled with everything from crevasses and couloirs to rocky ridges and sluffing snow. But there were also a few surprises along the way...
Read more on www.alaskastar.com

Follow these links for further coverage on this amazing mission.
www.ktuu.com
www.ktuu.com
www.ktuu.com
www.defenselink.mil
www.purpleheartradio.com

Trail Dedication

06 June Team, Purple Heart Trail dedication | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

Washburns 16800ft

14 June, team climbs Washburns thumb at 16800 ft! | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

1830 Denali Summit

16 June 1830 Denali Summit Dave Shebib, Bob Haines, Marc Hoffmeister. | Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

June 22, 2009

Operation Denali Summits!

Posted on Alaska Mountaineering School Blog

Kirby called at about 6:30 pm Alaska Time from the summit of Denali! "The first Wounded Warrior to summit was David Shebib, followed by Marc, followed by Bob" He said it was cold and windy so they were going to take some pictures and move on down. Their "SPOT" tracker is a bit off, but more accurate than we expected - Matt had informed me before they left that maps tend to be off by about 500 meters south and 200 meters east. If you want to follow their Spot Tracker, check out their website: Operation Denali These guys have worked tirelessly to make this climb happen, before they ever arrived in Talkeetna. Job Well Done! Congratulations!

Melis is not far behind them. When we talked to her earlier she said that if it is cold and/or windy they would wait to call us until they get back to camp, and if it was "sunny & warm" they would call from the top. From what Kirby said, I don't expect to hear from Melis until they get back to camp later tonight. We should be able to make an update by morning.

It's cloudy at 14,200 foot camp and it is flyable at Base Camp. Mark Hamill and Greg Vernovage flew in to Base Camp with West Buttress team Porter Draper, Charlie Pasch, Leslie Herje, Fergal O'Donnell, Manev Luthra and Keith Bronstein. They slathered on the sunscreen before they left!

Follow Operation Denali on www.Veteranscoalition.org.

No Barriers 2009 at Shake-A-Leg Miami

Erik Weihenmayer and the No Barriers team recently concluded the No Barriers Festival 2009, held at Shake-A-Leg Miami, which showcased some of the most cutting-edge ideas, approaches, techniques and technologies enabling people with challenges to push through their own personal barriers to live more full and adventurous lives. No Barriers shared its mission with participants from as far away as Hawaii and Alaska, Venezuela and Columbia, and Switzerland and Israel. It brought together pioneers, many with disabilities themselves, who are pushing the envelope in a variety of fields, from technology and science, to art and athletics, to adventure and humanitarian causes.

The festival included numerous adaptive clinics, which demonstrated innovative techniques for open water swimming, paddling and scuba diving for amputees and paraplegics. Adaptive yoga classes helped those with severe mobility issues to increase flexibility and reduce pain. A scientist from MIT demonstrated his own pair of prosthetic legs, with computerized ankle joints, controlled by his cell phone. A blind sailor led tours for other blind participants using a talking GPS to navigate. A paraplegic athlete showed off his hand cycle which morphs into a wheelchair, enabling him to instantly rise to the height of a standing person and fit through narrow doorways. Capping the festival off was Molly the Pony, who lost her leg during Katrina and became one of the first ponies to be fitted with a prosthetic leg.

Shake-A-Leg

A participant tries out a morphing hand cycle at No Barriers / Andrea Kennedy

In addition to highlighting adaptive technology, No Barriers places a high importance on the human spirit. The goal is to spark in people an attitude which leads them to confront their formidable obstacles head-on, to believe they can solve their own challenges, to become their own advocates, and ultimately to determine their own futures. No Barriers is a universal message, for all of us who, despite our backgrounds, circumstances, or abilities, wish to shatter barriers and pursue our dreams.

Click here to read this outstanding front-page article in the Miami Herald on No Barriers called, Technology has redefined what it means to be `disabled'

The Essential Summer Adventure Reader

One of summer's quiet pleasures is the chance to escape with a good book for some relaxed reading. Most book stores stock to the brim with paperback romance novels and fantasy fiction for the beach-going crowd - but what's on the shelves for the would-be adventurer, facing the daunting challenge of a placid vacation with the family instead? There are plenty of new best-seller titles to choose from, but recently I've been getting the most pleasure by re-discovering old classics. Visit Fredrick Wilkinson's Blog to view three of his all-time favorites.

June 16, 2009

Terra Antarctica wins...

By Jon Bowermaster, Mountain Hardwear Athlete

Best Oceans Issue Film

We screened our new, big, fun, informative, high-def film - TERRA ANTARCTICA, Rediscovering the Seventh Continent - this past weekend for the very first time, at the Blue Ocean Film Festival in Savannah, Georgia, and came away with some great review. Out of more than 200 films entered TERRA ANTARCTICA - about our 2008 exploration of the Antarctic Peninsula by sea kayak, foot and small plane - was one of six chosen to compete for the "Best of Festival" prize and was ultimately named the best "Ocean Issues" film.

Given my interest in and commitment to exploring the world's ocean and bringing back stories from it we couldn't ask for a better honor than to be regarded as the film "that most effectively raises awareness and increases understanding about environmental and sustainability issues facing the oceans and its inhabitants." That is exactly our goal. WATCH TRAILER.

KEEP UP WITH JON AT HIS BLOG, NOTES FROM SEA LEVEL AND AT JONBOWERMASTER.COM

June 12, 2009

To Lives Well Lived...

Fredrick Wilkinson's blog

To Lives Well Lived...

In Memory of Wade, Micah, and Jonny

Friends, family, and climbers around the world are mourning the loss of Micah Dash, Wade Johnson, and Jonny Copp. The trio were last seen alive when they left their basecamp in the Gongga (Minya Konka) Range of the Eastern Himalaya in Seuchuan Province, China, on May 20th. Jonny and Wade's bodies have been positively identified by search parties. It is likely all three perished in an avalanche.

In their home city of Boulder, Colorado, friends mobilized as soon as it was discovered they had missed their flight home. Some immediately flew to China, while others stayed awake for days on end to coordinate information, procure travel visas, collect donations, write press-releases, and provide comfort within the close-nit adventuring community. The outpouring of love and support on their blog has been staggering.

I never had the opportunity to meet Wade. But I can imagine the excitement he must have felt to be going into the mountains with Micah and Jonny, who I knew through years of haphazard encounters while traveling and climbing. I would bump into Jonny in Alaska or Micah in Yosemite Valley, share an evening of revelry, and then not see them for another nine months or a year. I am grateful for the few chances I had to tie into a rope with them at the crags, and saddened I never shared a true mountain adventure with either of them.

2003: Some friends and I were slumming it at Kahiltna International Airport when Kelly Cordes and Jonny arrived. Most of the West Buttress expeditions had been keeping a dignified distance from our slushy hovel, but Jonny and Kelly came right over to say hello and socialize. We watched them blaze up to the third-ice band on Depravation on Mount Hunter, then they headed to the East Fork of the Kahiltna for something a little more remote. That was so Jonny: he seemed like he'd rather go see what was around the next corner, instead of wasting all his time on the obvious, popular objectives like Hunter. I remember watching as they skied back into BC several days later in swirling grey clouds. They'd found adventure, all right. After FA-ing a 4,000 mixed route, Kelly had gone into a crevasse while skiing down in a white out. After hauling his partner out, Jonny found their tiny bivy tent. They crawled inside to brew up, and, though they were out of food, Jonny reached into a stuff sack to present Kelly with... a can of beer. That was also Jonny. You knew he was capable not only of leading the crux pitch or haulling your arse out a crevasse but he also had the class to produce a malted beverage in the middle of the Alaskan wilderness.

The first time I met Micah was in Indian Creek, back in the early 2000-s... Somebody had fallen near the top of a hard, tricky to protect finger crack, and they asked Micah if he wanted to go up to finish the lead...

Continue reading "To Lives Well Lived..." »

June 11, 2009

A Video Tribute to Jonny, Micah and Wade

Tribute to Micah, Jonny and Wade

Go to Adventurefilm.org/blog and watch the video put together by friends and family of Jonny, Micah and Wade. Just a two minute introduction into the lives of these three amazing humans. There is audio narration, so make sure your volume is up.

June 8, 2009

Ueli Steck Preps for Makalu

By Ueli Steck, Mountain Hardwear Athlete

Just back from the United States where my wife Nicole and I climbed in beautiful and warm weather. It's time to say goodbye to the summer and head back to get used to cold temperatures and snow.

Our trip to the States was gorgeous. I could - except to one pitch - redpoint on sight the route "Golden Gate" on the legendary El Capitan in the Yosemite National Parc. El Capitan is 1000 meter high and the highest free standing monolith of granite in the world. The difficulty of the route is 5.13b (US-scale), which corresponds to an 8a. This is motivation enough for the upcoming expedition to Gasherbrum II.

Read more on Climbing.com

Gasherbrum is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakorum, located at the northeast end of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own South Gasherbrum Glacier. The highest peak is Gasherbrum I. Three of the Gasherbrum massif's high peaks are over 8,000 meters. Gasherburm I is the world's eleventh highest peak, Broad Peak is the twelfth highest, and Gasherbrum II is the thirteenth highest. They do not lie - like Everest, Lohtse, Makalu or Ama Dablam - in Nepal, but in the sister mountain range of the Himalaja, in Karakorum Pakistan.

Ueli_Makalumap1.jpg

Continue reading "Ueli Steck Preps for Makalu" »

June 1, 2009

June 1st: Wounded Warriors Set Out to Conquer North America's Highest Peak

Mountain Hardwear Expedition Sponsorship Program

Visit: www.defenselink.mil/home/features/2009/0609_Operation_Denali/

The Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship Program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environment. Currently Mountain Hardwear is sponsoring Operation Denali, a monumental challenge for four wounded veterans, their two mentors and one guide, as they move from the base of North America's highest peak in Alaska's Denali National Park to the mountain's base camp at an elevation of 6,850 feet.

Operation Denali is continuing to raise funds during the climb. All funds raised will go to enable other warrior's to achieve similar dreams. Please, donate and support the future dreams of warriors.


Follow the expedition timeline on the Operation Denali home page at:
theveteranscoalition.org/operation_denali/

Also www.defenselink.mil is publishing a special feature that tracks our climb and provides some profiles of the climbers. Click here to visit the site.

Climb on!

A Birthday Climb

By Dawn Glanc | Read Dawn's Mountain Hardwear Athlete Bio.

Indian Creek, Utah

Dawn Glanc climbing in Southern Utah.

One of my favorite places to climb is Indian Creek, in Southern Utah. There is something about that area that calls to me after a long season of ice climbing. To me it is a little bit of paradise. The landscape is surreal. The rock formations in the creek and the canyon lands are something out of a fantasy story. Each year I find myself there in the spring to lose myself in the desert and soak up the warm sun.

I try to plan this desert experience around my birthday, which is in early May. I love to celebrate my birthday climbing with my friends. This year friends came from all distances to help me celebrate. Old friends and new friends came together to drink PBR and enjoy the campfire. I even had two birthday cakes with candles, accompanied each by a jolly happy birthday song. The party was a great way to welcome my advancement in age.

Each year, as a birthday present to myself, I try to send a climb. I typically pick a route that will be memorable. I try to pick a route that will challenge me, and one that will leave an impression on me. Since I had a crappy birthday last year, I wanted this year to be a big day of climbing and celebrating. I felt I had to make up for last year. This year I wanted to climb something fat for my big day, so I chose Big Baby.

Continue reading "A Birthday Climb" »

May 28, 2009

Go-to-Girl

Go-to-Girl

Who Inspires You? Tell us about your Go-to-Girl and WIN big!

Mountain Hardwear and Montrail join forces to celebrate the inspiration and motivation women provide each other to climb, bike, hike, swim, surf, trail run, and paddle. We want to know who that Go-to-Girl is that motivates you! Give us 300 characters on who motivates you and include a photo. Let's go! Gotogirl.mountainhardwear.com

May 26, 2009

Exploring the Sea of Zanj

By Jon Bowermaster, Sea Kayaker/Adventurer

Six to seven hundred years ago the very first to explore what we know as the Indian Ocean were Arabs, from Persia and the northern deserts. Searching what every sea-faring explorer of the time was seeking - trading routes and new lands to colonize - they explored what came to be known at the time as the Sea of Zanj, the Sea of Blacks. From the Maldives to the east coast of Africa (Somalia, Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Madagascar, the Seychelles islands, Mauritius, Reunion and more the Arabs put down roots, built sea ports. During the 1600s pirates, who used the islands off the coast of Africa as both temporary hideouts and permanent homes, followed the black Arabs. It wasn't until the late 1700s that Europeans - sailing from Spain, France, England, the Netherlands and more - first explored the region. It's a rich history, going back nearly eight hundred years; this past spring I spent two months exploring the seas between the Maldives and the coast of east Africa, in search of all those roots (and routes) and coming up on a sizable number of a species that it turns out is not so new to the region: Pirates.

Sea of Zanj

Photo Courtesy of Jon Bowermaster

Five a.m. on the Indian Ocean, a quarter mile off the small granite island of La Digue. Daylight is still an hour away, the sea flat and quiet, still too early for the call of morning birds and too dark for pirates.

And pirates are on everyone's minds and lips here. Just the day before Somali pirates grabbed a tuna boat with a crew of 29 just to the north of where we motor, near Denis Island. A few days before they had taken a commercial dive boat and before that a private sailboat. Apparently being thwarted in waters closer to home - the Seychelles are easily six hundred miles from the coast of Somalia - due to an increase in navy ships patrolling, the brash pirates have headed here for new booty.

Continue reading "Exploring the Sea of Zanj" »

May 22, 2009

Ben Clark's Last Dispatch

Oh-So-Close to El Cap Onsight

By Dougald MacDonald, Mountain World

Ueli in Yosemite

Swiss climber Ueli Steck free-climbed Golden Gate (5.13b, 41 pitches) and fell on only a single pitch, onsighting the rest of the climb. And the one pitch that spoiled his onsight? It was the 5.11c crack off the top of El Cap Spire, just before Golden Gate heads right from the Salathé Wall. Steck slipped on wet rock on this relatively easy pitch, but onsighted the route's five 5.12 and three 5.13 pitches. Read more on Climbing.com.

Also check out SuperTopo Climber's Forum.

May 19, 2009

Crossing the Bering Sea, from Tokyo to Alaska

News from Jon Bowermaster

Jon Bowermaster

This promises to be a fantastic journey taking me back to a part of the world that kick-started my deep interest in all things oceanic. From the intense culture of the world's biggest fish market in Tokyo, to the remote northern islands of Japan and Kamchatka, before winding through the Aleutian Islands we'll be in some of the most beautiful and roughest waters on the planet.

I know the latter first hand: It was exactly ten years ago that I ventured to the Islands of Four Mountains, a small chain in the heart of the Aleutians known by the Aleuts as "The Birthplace of the Winds," with three friends in two big sea kayaks. That was the first of our OCEANS 8 adventures and none of us could have predicted then - as we endured five-plus weeks of constant rain, cyclonic winds and the rare blue sky, navigating among the foggy and wind-swept islands and climbing the snow-capped volcanic peaks - what the next decade would deliver. For me, it was the start of an odyssey that continues today, exploring the world's ocean from sea level with a focus on the people - like the Aleuts - who first explored it.

Keep up with Jon at his blog, Notes from sea level and at JonBowermaster.com.

May 18, 2009

Everest News From Basecamp

Pumori camp

Everest taken from Pumori camp 1. | Photo Courtesy of Kenton Cool

The team are resting at basecamp at the moment while we all wait for better weather. I woke this morning to a thick layer of snow all over Basecamp and the winds up high are howling.

The team are all keeping busy with daily walks down the valley a little bit and also up to Pumori Camp 1 as you can see from the picture above. We are also busy playing games and reading books, although my choice of book 'Dreadnaught' which so far is all about 1800 German politics is proving a bigger challenge than the mountain.

Looking into the future it looks like there may be a window of good weather from the 19th through to the 24th May so we are all keeping our fingers and toes crossed for this.

If it comes off it will be my 7th straight summit on the mountain and we are hoping to get a special fellow up the hill this year!!!

Everest

View from my tent this morning! | Photo Courtesy of Kenton Cool

Follow the action at www.dream-guides.com and click latest news.

A huge thanks for all the support from various people esp Mountain Hardwear, Lyon Equipment, Sceince In sport, Amersports, Land Rover.

Regards,
Kenton Cool

May 15, 2009

MHW headed to the New River Rendezvous!

New River Rendezvous

A weekend of fun and climbing! The New River Rendezvous is an annual climber festival benefiting the New River Alliance of Climbers. Mountain Hardwear is donating the Signature Event T and brings the 1st annual Tug 'O War: Pros vs. Joes

For complete event info go to the official New River Rendezvous website.

May 11, 2009

Into the Pirate's Sea

By Jon Bowermaster

Jon Bowermaster

Every day dozens of ships - carrying cargo, crews, even passengers - are picking their way carefully along Somalia's coastline, attempting to move from the Indian Ocean to the Red Sea via the Gulf of Aden. These are currently the most dangerous waters on the planet: In the first three months of this year there have been more than one hundred successful pirate attacks and hundreds of just-unsuccessful ones.

My friend Dennis Cornejo - marine biologist, undersea filmmaker extraordinaire, lover of flora and reptiles - is aboard a passenger ship (sans passengers) making its move through the gulf, paralleling the Somali coastline. If successful, the trip should take five to six days. If unsuccessful, the next we hear from him may be as a hostage, the ship being held for ransom. Follow his Amelia on May 11, 2009 10:23 AM | | Comments (0)

May 8, 2009

Mountain Hardwear Kenton Cool Appears in the Guardian

By Ed Douglas, The Observer

Straight up. Just add ice! Ed Douglas goes the wrong way up an Alpine waterfall with a mountain guide called Mr Cool.

Kenton Cool Ice Climbing

Kenton Cool ice climbing near Chamonix. Photo by PR.

Kenton Cool is fooling around for the camera, hoisting up imaginary breasts and pouting. "How's this?" I take a step back to fit him in the frame. And because we're on a narrow snow-covered ledge 50 or 60ft above the ground, I do this carefully. Best not to trip up. Continue reading the Guardian article on www.guardian.co.uk. Click here to view Kenton Cool's Mountain Hardwear Athlete Profile.

May 1, 2009

Meet Montrail Athletes Matt & Sean

Meet Montrail Athletes Matt & Sean

Meet Matt Hart and Sean Melssner, two accomplished Ultra Runners. With years of running and outstanding race finishes between them, they have good advice to share. What should you eat pre-race, how to train for an ultra run, how to recover from a big race...ask Matt and Sean anything!

April 30, 2009

2010 Expedition Sponsorship!

Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship

Turn your dreams into reality by applying for the 2010 Expedition Sponsorship through Mountain Hardwear and have your performance elevated! Visit the Athletes & Events page at MountainHardwear.com
to access the application.


April 20, 2009

Spring Training

By Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Micah Dash

Jonny and I leave for Asia in just ten days and our spring training is in full effect. Since breaking my heel last summer, and spending three months on crutches followed by another three months walking at an ants pace, I wasn't sure how to get back into shape. Keeping up with Jonny in the mountains is no easy feat. He is a cardio machine and since our objective in Asia will be more of a mixed alpine route than a big wall rock climb I decided I needed to train a bit differently.

Spring Training

Time for some spring training! Photo Credit Micah Dash

Thanks to Connie Sciolino and the Mountain Athlete program www.mtnathlete.com from Jackson Hole, but now also in Boulder, I found just what I was looking for. Mountain Athlete, similar to Cross Fit, is a hardcore, ass kicking one hour workout session. Its leg crushing, heart pumping, back burning, barf on the floor marathon.

This kind of training won't necessarily make you a better climber, you need to climb to do that, but what it will do is make you hard to kill in the alpine. Mountain Machines like Bean Bowers, Stephen Koch, Ben Gilmore, and Kevin Mahoney have been this training method for some time. In combination with climbing fulltime I think it will be a huge asset to climbing in the Himalaya this spring. If nothing else, I feel like it is bringing me closer to where I was prior to getting injured.

If you find yourself in Boulder and cranking on the rocks doesn't seem to be doing the trick, stop in and check it out. You can contact Connie at sciolino@q.com.

The New Zealand 2009 Batura Glacier Expedition

By Pat Deavoll, Mountain Hardwear Athlete

Organising this expedition, a recipient of the Mountain Hardwear Expedition Grant, has been an organic process- more so than any other trip I've put together. The problem seems to be the country! Pakistan is in the news more often than some climbers feel comfortable with; that plus the fact the New Zealand Batura Glacier Expedition intends to travel, and climb, within a stones throw of the Afghan border.

Kampire Dior

Kampire Dior Photo by Bruce Norman

Having climbed in Pakistan in 2007 and 2008, I'm not that worried. I figure what I'm there to do, climb a 7000m peak, puts me at greater risk than being caught up in any Al Quaeda activity. I figure if we make our stay in Islamabad short and keep our heads down travelling through Swat (on the way up the Karakoram Highway) once we get to liberal, tourist-orientated Hunza, we'll be fine. And no self-respecting member of the Taliban is going to want to trek 65km up the Batura Glacier to check us out.

But six weeks out from leaving New Zealand, two of the team are wavering, un-nerved by the latest bombing that killed 19 people at a popular Islamabad mosque last weekend. And a rumour has come through from our outfitter that some parts of the NW may be put off limits to climbers, including the Upper Batura Glacier. Choose another objective, they say.

What to do?

Continue reading "The New Zealand 2009 Batura Glacier Expedition" »

April 16, 2009

The Whisky Off-Road Mountain Bike Event

PRESCOTT, Ariz. -- The Sixth Annual Whiskey Off-Road, set to kick off April 25, is adding a new twist to the nation's mountain bike scene: free live music. The concert will feature Roger Clyne and the Peacemakers. In addition to - or in place of - riding their bikes, participants may choose to practice yoga with a local yogi before the sun sets and the party begins.

The Whisky route takes riders through the 1.25-million-acre Prescott National Forest. The forest boasts a seemingly endless system of well-maintained trails, thanks to the Prescott National Forest Service staff and local trail advocacy groups, including the Prescott Cycling Club.

For more information, interviews and up-to-date reports, photos and video footage check out Epicrides.com or call Todd Sadow at 520-745-2033.

2009-Whiskey-POSTER-V-4.jpg

April 15, 2009

Blindsight and Touch the Top of the World DVD

Erik Weihenmayer 's memoir, Touch the Top of the World, was made into a feature film and recently released on DVD. For an indepth look at the film go to A&ETV.

Blindsight follows six Tibetan teenagers who set out to climb the 23,000 foot Lhakpa Ri on the north side of Mount Everest. A dangerous journey soon becomes a seemingly impossible challenge made all the more remarkable by the fact that the teenagers are blind.

Blindsight Film

"Just because you lose your sight, doesn't mean you lose your vision."
- Blind climber Erik Weihenmayer

Read Erik Weihenmayer 's Athlete bio on MountainHardwear.com

April 13, 2009

The Maldives

By Jon Bowermaster, Mountain Hardwear Adventure Journalist

The last time I was in the island nation of the Maldives - nearly 400,000 people scattered among 1,200 tiny islands running south for a thousand miles off the tips of Sri Lanka and India - the place was on edge. It was early in 2005 and the tsunami waves had rushed over the islands just a few weeks before. Fortunately for the Maldives a combination of deep channels running between islands and the sizable coral reefs that surround many of them prevented the giant wave from sweeping its entire population into the sea. Only about 100 people were killed, far fewer than drowned on the coast of Somalia hundreds of miles further west.

Maldives

Photo Credit: Jon Bowermaster

I came to report on the post-tsunami impacts for the New York Times and as I wandered among the homes badly cracked by the wave and saw decades-old garbage dumps swept into the sea by waters that rushed over the islands - which rise less than six feet above sea level - everyone was talking about the possibility of another such incident. "What can we do to prevent the next wave from taking us all," was the collective concern. "What if there is a second wave coming?"

Maldives

Photo Credit: Jon Bowermaster

Today I'm back for a couple weeks of scouting - we'll shoot a documentary film here later in the year - and the subject has changed. No one is talking about tsunami waves, but everyone is talking about rising sea levels. Both are obviously legitimate concerns in a place where all of life lives just a couple feet above the sea. Talk is heightened by a variety of recent reports that sea level rise around the globe is now anticipated to come faster, reach higher ... and the fact that the Maldives new president, Mohamed Nasheen, is talking louder than any elected official in the world about the need to do anything we can to slow the seas from rising. He obviously has a vested interest.

Continue reading "The Maldives" »

April 9, 2009

CNN follows Ben Clark Ski the Himalayas

Ski the Himalayas

Mountain Hardwear Athlete, Ben Clark

CNN.com follows climber Ben Clark, a Mountain Hardwear Athlete, and friends on their adventure across the globe to ski down the Himalayas. CNN interviews will be posted to the blog at www.skithehimalayas.com.

Outside's 2009 Best Places to Work

Mountain Hardwear Building

Mountain Hardwear Headquarters, located at historic Ford Point
Photo Credit: Billy Hustace Photography

Mountain Hardwear today was named to Outside magazine's (www.outsideonline.com) second annual "Best Places to Work" list. Mountain Hardwear was ranked No. 19 out of 30 selected companies. The full list and related story will be published in the May issue of Outside magazine, available on newsstands April 14, 2009.

Mountain Hardwear, a leading manufacturer of outdoor equipment and apparel, is honored to be among the few to receive this great distinction. "Mountain Hardwear's commitment to making top-end products has employees getting outside and testing gear in real mountains," say Outside Magazine executive editor Michael Roberts. "Plus, their solar-powered headquarters in Richmond has loaner bikes so the staff can roll to lunch spots and it will soon offer a kayak launch into the San Francisco Bay. It's an ideal environment for balancing hard work with a fun, active lifestyle."

"I think we have to give Mike Wallenfels a lot of credit. Many companies may try to mandate a company culture, but if the top of the pyramid isn't participating, it's meaningless - employees are hesitant. But Mike is leading by example. He's the cornerstone to the culture here. Some days he has his dogs in his office and he's almost always up for a lunchtime mountain bike ride," says Ted Ganio, Director of Merchandising.

Continue reading "Outside's 2009 Best Places to Work" »

April 7, 2009

Operation Denali

By Marc Hoffmeister, Team Leader, Operation Denali

Sponsorship through Mountain Hardwear's Expedition Sponsorship Program is a dream come true for a group of guys who didn't think climbing Denali was even possible a few years ago. The mission of Operation Denali is to enable four warriors wounded in the Global War on Terror to overcome our devastating combat injuries and successfully summit 20,320 ft Denali, the highest mountain in North America. The climb symbolizes the strength of our Nation and those who defend it. Specific details about the climb are online at VeteransCoalition.org.

I've always loved the outdoors. I used to spend all of my free time climbing in the back country or dreaming about climbing the big peaks. I stopped dreaming the day the enemy got lucky and I earned a purple heart. In 2007, while conducting combat operations in Iraq, a roadside bomb ripped through my HMMWV. The explosively formed penetrator tore through all of us in the truck. We survived because the rest of my men did everything right, but I lost effective use of my left arm and hand to my injuries. Despite our survival, life has changed for us all, in both mind and body. We became casualties of war. I bear this title proudly. I have no regrets and I have no anger at the enemy or frustration with the war. I know we've made a difference and I accept my sacrifices.

Marc Hoffmeister earned a Purple Heart

Marc Hoffmeister earned a Purple Heart.
Photo Courtesy of Marc Hoffmeister

Continue reading "Operation Denali" »

April 2, 2009

1st Anniversary Special!

Mountain Hardwear Special

*Gift with Purchase: The gift offer is valid only on single in-store purchase at the Mountain Hardwear store in Portland. Limit one gift per person per day while supplies last. Offers may not be applied to prior purchases or gift certificates, combined with any other offer or discount, or redeemed by store employees. Mountain Hardwear reserves the right to modify or cancel this offer at any time. Le Hoody Royale valid only on 4/9/2009 - 4/11/2009. ©2009 Mountain Hardwear, Inc. All rights reserved.

Bridal Veil Ice Climbing video on PLUM TV

Bridal Veil Falls is the highest cascade waterfall in Colorado with water falling 365 feet. For the first time in decades, the falls opened this winter for expert only ice climbing this winter. Mountain Hardwear athlete, Ben Clark couldn't be stopped from making the climb. Check it out on Plumtv.com.

Ben Clark on Plum TV

View more Mountain Hardwear athlete videos here.

April 1, 2009

The Last Ice of the Season

By Dawn Glanc

My ice-climbing season in Colorado was just about over for the year. The ice in Ouray had begun to melt. The days were growing longer and the daytime temperatures continually soared well above freezing. The ice was starting to fall down or become very sun affected and turning to a snow cone. I however, was not ready to have my season end. So, I set my sights to far off lands that were still frozen. I looked toward Norway.

Rjukan Ice Climbing

Rjukan Ice Climbing

I connected with good friends who live in Oslo. Seth Hobby and Maren Bistrup welcomed me to come over and climb. Seth said the conditions were great and that he would have two weeks time to climb with me. He also mentioned that he had a sweet four wheel drive van, so that I would not have to rent a car. It all seemed to fall into place naturally. I bought a cheap ticket and flew over to the frozen lands a week later. The trip quickly came together, with all the elements of a great trip in line. I was more than elated to go and explore and have a crazy Norwegian adventure.

When I arrived In Oslo, the weather was grey and cloudy. Naturally I wanted a bluebird forecast, but the cold weather and overcast skies were much more conducive for our ice climbing objectives. I spent one night in Oslo at Seth and Maren's apartment to settle in, and to recover from the long hours of travel. The following morning after a proper Norwegian breakfast, Seth and I made our game plan for the days to come.

Continue reading "The Last Ice of the Season" »

March 24, 2009

2010 Expedition Sponsorship Program

Mountain Hardwear Sponsorship

Applications for the 2010 Expedition Sponsorship Program will be available beginning May 1st. Turn your dreams into reality by applying for Expedition Sponsorship through Mountain Hardwear
and have your performance elevated!


Paradox on Ice

By Micah Dash

When the R.P.G. rocket impacted Captain D.J. Skelton while on combat operations in Fallujah the farthest thing from his mind was climbing. But for D.J., and many of us, climbing is in our blood. With his glass eye, titanium arm, and numerous scars across his body he modifies equipment and techniques to climb both ice and rock. Since our first meeting in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky nearly two years ago D.J. has become a regular climbing partner of mine. He along with Timmy O Neil created Paradox sports.

Pete Davis

Paradox Sports was created with a common desire to integrate the physically disabled into the outdoor community by providing inspiration, opportunities, and the adaptive equipment needed to participate in human-powered outdoor sports. " The common bond of loving the outdoors and wanting to share it with others, regardless of physical limitations, is what brought them together." Says executive director Malcom Daily.

Continue reading "Paradox on Ice" »

March 23, 2009

Bridges Rock Gym
Grand Opening March 28th and 29th!

Bridges Rock Gym Grand Opening

The New Kid in Town by Rowan Jimenez

Since indoor climbing came to be the sport it has exposed an incredible array of people to climbing that otherwise would have never given it a chance. Due to its convenience and accessibility it also has been producing some gnarly and powerful contenders for the sport. A form of recreational activity and a sport in its own right climbing puts you on the edge, no matter what form you practice. Since the early 90's I've been one of those people who took on and stuck with it. I have made climbing my sport, my form of adventure and my community. I have worked in climbing from different angles, as a climbing instructor, as a course setter (City Rock and Touchstone about 8 yrs combined) which led me to my current job working for one the most cutting edge companies in the outdoor industry - Mountain Hardwear.

Climbing Wall

Photo by Jim Thornburg

My fascination with climbing leaned towards bouldering. All forms of climbing you can say has its own group of dedicated followers. Bouldering is one of those specialties that through the years have become a sport within the sport itself. From really hard, powerful and short to super technical and scary tall, bouldering gets your adrenaline up and going. Doing it outdoors definitely gets you pumped and embodies the freedom that climbing over all provides.

What about doing it indoors? What about a place in which you can hone your skills to tackle not only the hard but also the tall with a full top out experience just like if you were climbing as high as the classic Great White Rastafarian in Joshua Tree or Ghetto Blaster in Hueco tanks. I clearly remember daydreaming with all my climbing buddies and always skimming plans. "We should open up a pure and only bouldering gym some day guys, wouldn't that be awesome?" We all wanted that little Oasis where only chalk and shoes was all we needed.

Click here to read the full story behind the opening of Bridges Rock Gym.

Climbing Gyms

Photo by Jim Thornburg

Bridges Rock Gym 5635 San Diego St. El Cerrito CA 94530.
For more information check out BridgesRockGym.com or call 510.525.5635.

March 20, 2009

Mountain Hardwear Gear Appears on The Amazing Race

Read about this episode on: TVSquad.com

AmazingRace.jpg

Amazing Race's Jen and Kisha are wearing the cold weather climbing and mountaineering Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero Jacket.

Mountain Hardwear Sub Zero Jacket

The Whisky Off-Road Mountain Bike Event

PRESCOTT, Ariz. -- The Sixth Annual Whiskey Off-Road, set to kick off April 25, is adding a new twist to the nation's mountain bike scene: free live music. The concert will feature Roger Clyne and the Peacemakers. In addition to - or in place of - riding their bikes, participants may choose to practice yoga with a local yogi before the sun sets and the party begins.

The Whisky route takes riders through the 1.25-million-acre Prescott National Forest. The forest boasts a seemingly endless system of well-maintained trails, thanks to the Prescott National Forest Service staff and local trail advocacy groups, including the Prescott Cycling Club.

For more information, interviews and up-to-date reports, photos and video footage check out Epicrides.com or call Todd Sadow at 520-745-2033.

2009-Whiskey-POSTER-V-4.jpg

March 18, 2009

Grasshopper Adventure Series

The 11th Annual Grasshopper Series
Want to practice your cycling Kung Fu, check out the Grasshopper Adventure Series. The 3rd ride in the 4 ride series is April 11th at Lake Sonoma.


More info available at their website:
Grasshopperadventureseries.blogspot.com.

Grasshopper_sm_Pstr.jpg

March 19, 2009

What's Blooming Now?

By Cynthia Houng Visit Cynthia's website.

Several readers have asked me to post pictures of my garden. March 15 was "Garden Bloggers' Bloom Day," and I thought I would share some flowers from my garden.

Clematis Armandii

narcissusgeranium400.jpg

Continue reading "What's Blooming Now? " »

March 12, 2009

Welcome to the Republic!

Join the Expedition!

Climb into Mountain Hardwear's Virtual World!

The thrill of expeditions is now online! Mountain Hardwear invites you to explore our new 3D virtual world where mountain adventures come alive. Join a community of athletes and enthusiasts - where we gather to celebrate what we all love - the drive to the summit. The Expedition Republic offers:

Join the Expedition!
  • A Giant Gear Giveaway
  • Expedition videos
  • Downloadable content
  • An entire social network focused on expeditions and mountaineering
Connect with other climbers and explore the Expedition Republic.

March 11, 2009

Brief and Incoherent Glimpses of Gonzo-style Alpinism

By Freddie Wilkinson. View his profile on MountainHardwear.com.

When it comes to documenting alpine climbs, I am no Ken Burns. Most of the time I'm too tired, too scared, too uncomfortable, or I'm just having way too much fun to worry about recording it for posterity. Nevertheless, thanks to modern technology, even the most basic point- and-shoots can take short video clips. Sometimes, its just too easy not to turn on my Canon SD 800 and press play. So, here are a few clips from the archives -- nothing smooth or polished, just raw reality, as funny or stupid, inspiring or embarrassing as it seems. Enjoy!

El Sacraficio Del Raton, Cerro Poincinot, Patagonia:
This shot was taken during the first ascent of a route I climbed on the South Face of Poincinot with Dave Sharratt in January 2007. The route took two days; we bivied with no stove or sleeping bag on a small ledge two-thirds up the face. Note the changes in my demeanor: in the first video I am psyched; in the second video, taken right before we were benighted, I'm a bit apprehensive; and in the third video, taken on the descent after we summited, I'm just plain worked. You may notice that through it all, "the Monster" keeps his cool.

Freddie Wilkinson and Dave Sharratt psyched to be climbing
the South Face of Poincino.

Continue reading "Brief and Incoherent Glimpses of Gonzo-style Alpinism" »

Chicks Rock! Attend a Rock Climbing Clinic

Grab your Mountain Hardwear Gear Girls and attend a Clinic!
Brought to you by Chicks with Picks and Jackson Hole Mountain Guides.

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Location: Red Rocks, Nevada Dates: April 9-13, 2009
Photo by Farmerfoto

For ten years Chicks with Picks has been kicking axe with our women's ice climbing clinics. We've decided to shed our soft shells and don our favorite tank tops...we're going to the desert! Come join our expert Girly Guides in Red Rocks, NV this April for our rock climbing pilot program!

We welcome beginner to advanced rock climbers with 5 different levels you can choose from. This three-day clinic offers a 4-to-1 ratio followed by an optional multi-pitch day with a 2-to-1 ratio.

Chicks has become well known for more than just climbing - our Chicks become solid climbers, and they learn self-reliance and confidence that funnels into everyday life. We not only climb hard all day, we also gather at night for dinners, discussions and slideshows.

Prices:

Option 1: Chicks Rock 3 day weekend
April 10 - 12th (4-to-1 ratio) = $780
Option 2: Chicks Rock 3 day weekend April 10 - 12th plus the
Multi Pitch day
(2-to-1 ratio) April 13th = $1230

For more detailed information email us: info@chickswithpicks.net
Tel: 970.626.4424

March 10, 2009

Eiger North Face Filming

By Kenton Cool, IFMGA Mountain Guide. View his profile on MountainHardwear.com.

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Neil Brodie at the Stollenloch window on the Eiger, the scene
of much history. Photo by Kenton Cool

It was planned for a while but things in the mountains are never that easy. As Neil and I drove to the Eiger on Thursday we weren't too hopeful about climbing the N Face for the BBC. The crew all met in the eve and we travelled on the train to Kleine Schidegg and a hotel that simply oozed history....its where Clint Eastwood stayed while filming the Eiger Sanction. All day Friday its snowed and we didn't even see the face, not great for climbing.

Continue reading "Eiger North Face Filming" »

March 3, 2009

Climbing a Classic

By Dawn Glanc, Check out her profile on MountainHardwear.com

Years ago, a friend gave me a guidebook for Colorado ice climbing. I accepted the gift, but viewed it at the time as a coffee table book. This friend marked the page for Bridal Veil Falls and said, "This is the one you should climb". I smiled and agreed with an unconvincing "sure." The book sat for years on the shelf. Every now and again during the Black Hills ice season, I would look at that guide book and day dream about bigger days and gnarly climbs like Bridal Veil Falls.

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Dawn climbing Bridal Veil, one of the most difficult ice climbs in Colorado.
Photo Courtesy of Dawn Glanc

Continue reading "Climbing a Classic" »

February 27, 2009

24 Hours in the Old Pueblo 2009

By Sean McDevitt, Mountain Hardwear Tent Developer

The idea of racing my mountain bike for 24 hours straight used to scare the hell out of me. The fact that going into my 4th 24 Solo I love it even more, scares me. They are mostly unsanctioned, un-televised races that barely get a blurb on the bike news websites. It is terribly expensive, time consuming and rarely involves prizes more than T shirts and chain lube samples. It is so hard that it takes a month to recover and even the most elite of riders can only do 2-3 races per year. Countless stories of courage, hope and tenacity are never told. Over the past few years I have seen so many racers pedal their hearts out in the middle of the night. Some race out of love of cycling, broken hearts or the competitive challenge to race for 24 hours.

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24 hours straight!

Continue reading "24 Hours in the Old Pueblo 2009" »

February 26, 2009

Neil Gresham on Double Scotch, Les Ecrins, France

This afternoon, when I went to check my mailbox, I found an unexpected gift -- a plain brown paper envelope with a "Royal Mail" postmark on it. Inside, I found this video from Neil Gresham.

Continue reading "Neil Gresham on Double Scotch, Les Ecrins, France" »

February 13, 2009

The Jimmy Skid Rig

By Will Meinen

After the third winter of efforts, it's finally done. The Jimmy Skid Rig has been climbed. I still can't believe it as I sit here and try to figure out how to sum it up for a 'blog'.

What is the Jimmy Skid Rig?

The name was born from the Hilti drill used on the route. With a fiberglass patch job holding the body together and a hundred foot extension cord running from the drill to the three motorcycle batteries duct taped together in the bottom of a haul bag, it was a sketchy setup at best, but it was all we could afford. After inspecting the setup, a friend laughed out loud and called Brandon and I a 'Jimmy Skid Rig' outfit, and with very little confidence he wished us luck on the mission. And with that the name stuck. We definitely weren't conventional mixed climbers, and our plan wasn't very polished. We were just a couple guys with a get 'er done sort of attitude.

The Jimmy Skid Rig was born early December two winters ago when Brandon Pullan and I negotiated the 'adventure-race course' that guards the base of the route. As we stood at the base of the route and looked up at the ice, we became obsessed with an idea. Our idea was to find a way to climb the overhanging mixed terrain to the daggers of frozen water that had dripped down the exposed ice-curtain that loomed above us.

The Jimmy Skid Rig

The Jimmy Skid Rig

At the time, I didn't know how we would do it, or how long it would take, but we knew that, somehow, we were going to get 'er done. When you have an idea, or a dream that you believe in, it's important that you follow it through because dreams are the stuff that the good life is made of. We quickly returned with enough gear to climb the Trango Tower. Tents, stoves, static ropes, dynamic ropes, bolts, pins, beaks, power drill, ice tools, hammers, ascenders, cams, nuts, and a bottle of whiskey. After the first season of effort we reached a high point about half way up.

Continue reading "The Jimmy Skid Rig" »

February 6, 2009

A Midwinter's Treat

By Will Meinen

"I think I'm getting heat stroke. Does anyone have anymore water?"

I looked at my thermometer again to confirm my half delusional state of mind; twenty-three degrees Celsius. As messed up as it was, I wasn't going to fight it. Rather, I was going to soak up the good rays of vitamin D and appreciated the once in a life time experience. I was half way up Forbidden Corner on Mt. Yamnuska, enjoying the warm sun, a stellar view, and the fine company of Brandon Pullan and Julia Niles.

Julia Niles enjoying some winter sun on Forbidden Corner

Julia Niles enjoying some winter sun on Forbidden Corner

Continue reading "A Midwinter's Treat" »

January 27, 2009

Climbing the Colton-MacIntyre Route, French Alps

Watch a larger version of this video on our YouTube channel.

Mountain Hardwear athlete Kenton Cool and crew tackle the Colton-MacIntyre Route

Continue reading "Climbing the Colton-MacIntyre Route, French Alps" »

January 16, 2009

Ouray 2009: A Cinderella Weekend

By Dawn Glanc

In December I returned to Ouray Colorado for another season of ice and mixed climbing. This would be my fourth winter in Ouray and my third year competing in the ice festival. This year I was more committed than ever to try to win the Ouray Ice Festival. I began to train for this goal on December 2. My training routine was very intense this year. I went out mixed climbing all day, 6 days a week. I hit the gym immediately after climbing 4 nights a week. I did yoga every morning for at least 30 minutes and did what I could to have a good healthy high protein diet. I adopted new training partners this year as well, which I believe was the true key to success. Andres Marin, Paul "Pablo" Stein and Geoff Unger held my string day after day. These guys gave me the encouragement and "shit talking" that I needed to help me excel. It was a grueling regimen that I strictly followed for six weeks.

After a rigorous and intense six weeks, the festival arrived. The town of Ouray awoke from its winter slumber as 1000 ice climbers flooded the town. The town began to bustle. Vendor booths cluttered the ice park and eager climbers were everywhere. The energy was high and people were psyched.

The day we had been preparing for arrived. Saturday was a beautiful blue bird day, the kind that we have grown to love here in Ouray. It was warm and sunny, and I could not contain my excitement. Andres and I headed to the park to get warmed up. We were both really stoked for our turn to compete. It seemed like an eternity passed as we waited our turn to climb the route.

Dawn Glance, Ouray Ice Fest 2009

Dawn Glance climbing at the Ouray Ice Fest

Finally my number was called.

Continue reading "Ouray 2009: A Cinderella Weekend" »

December 9, 2008

Racing the 12 Hours of Temecula

12 Hours of Temecula


"It doesn't get easier; you just go faster" - Greg Lemond


Ego
As climbed up the fire road pre-riding the 9 mile loop race course of 12 hours of Temecula, I reflected on a long season of endurance Mountain bike racing. 24 Hours in the Old Pueblo, Boggs 8 hour, Cool 24 Hour Race against Cancer, Grasshopper @ Lake Sonoma, 12 hours of Weaverville... I figured I about seen it all... Wrong!

Sean crests the ridge

Course
The fire road climb was unrelenting with pitches approaching 20% with loose sandy rutty sections with baby head rocks strewn about generously. Rocky drop offs led to switch back descents, mixed with inches of dust and sand covering loose rocks. Every lap had about 4 hair razing loose rutty chutes covered with sand. Either you let go of the brakes and hoped everything worked out or you got off your bike and did the walk of shame. I opted for the former.

Sean negotiates the turn

Race
So at 9am 130 solos and other racers made a parade loop through the camp ground and began was to be a very long hot day. Super steep exposed fire road climbs in 96F, with loose technical single track descent. I stayed with the big dogs from the factory pro teams for the first 2 laps then started to cramp a bit so I took it back a notch to pace myself for the full 12 hours. After about 6 hours of racing other solos started asking me what lap I was on. After 8 hours they were asking me how many laps I planned to do. I told one racer, "I don't know man, I just pedal till someone says I can stop. The cumulative affect of the hot weather, steep climbs and nerve racking descents, felt like it was taking years off my life.

Continue reading "Racing the 12 Hours of Temecula" »

December 3, 2008

The Mad House

By Will Meinen

BrandonOn The Mad House

Brandon on the Mad House

New routing is my favourite type of climbing. As Forest Gump said, it's "like a box of chocolates; you never know what you gonna get." I hiked up an unmarked drainage on Mt Rundle with Brandon Pullan several weeks ago.

Mad House Route

The Mad House: WI 4+ 300M -- View More Photos from Will's route on Flickr

He had gone up about three years prior, and spotted a gem that needed to be climbed. He snapped a photo, and tried to entice friends to return to climb the route. Nobody took the bait, until me. Call me a lucky bastard, or just call me up for anything cause I'll never say no.

Continue reading "The Mad House" »

November 26, 2008

New Mountain Hardwear Store in Seattle Washington: Grand Opening Events!

THE MOUNTAIN HARDWEAR STORE GRAND OPENING 12/5/08

  • Hear blind climber and mountaineer Erik Weihenmayer speak Saturday December 6th at 2 p.m. Get a free copy of either his book "Touch The Top of the World" or a DVD of his award winning documentary "Farther Than the Eye Can See" with a $100 retail purchase*.
  • Ski mountaineer Andrew McLean speaks Thursday, December 11th at 6 p.m. Get a free copy of the DVD "Steep" with $100 retail purchase*.
  • The first 50 people who purchase at least $100 of Mountain Hardwear gear on December 5th will get 1 Sentinel Jr. messenger bag*.
  • 5% of your purchases during the first week, a minimum of $5,000, will be donated to provide outdoor experiences to disadvantaged youth through HARK, a local Seattle non-profit.
  • Meet climber Ethan Pringle on Tuesday, December 9th at 6 p.m.
  • Come listen to Montrail athlete, endurance runner and coach Matt Hart during his talk on Saturday, December 13th at 2 p.m.

Seattle Store

*Gifts with Purchases: Each gift offer is valid only on single in-store purchase at the Mountain Hardwear store in Seattle. Limit one gift per person per day while supplies last. Offers may not be applied to prior purchases or gift certificates, combined with any other offer or discount, or redeemed by store employees. Mountain Hardwear reserves the right to modify or cancel these offers at any time. Sentinel Jr. messenger bag valid only on 12/5/2008. Touch The Top of the World book or Farther DVD offer valid only on 12/6/2008. Steep DVD offer valid only on 12/11/2008. ©2008 Mountain Hardwear, Inc. All rights reserved.

Donation: 5% of the pre-tax purchase price of every purchase (excluding purchases of gift cards, gift certificates, prize and employee purchases) December 5 - December 11, 2008 at the Mountain Hardwear store in Seattle, Washington, a minimum of $5,000 will be donated to HARK, 3671 Redwing Trail NW, Bremerton WA 98312, to fund outdoor experiences for disadvantaged youth. ©2008 Mountain Hardwear Inc. All rights reserved.

November 19, 2008

Calling All Blog Junkies

By Freddie Wilkinson

Blog junkies, internet addicts, and virtual alpinists everywhere should take note of my friend and neighbor Kevin Mahoney's newly revised internet site, www.NewHampshireIceclimbing.com. The site is the home-page to Kevin's guide service, Mahoney Alpine Adventures. But it's also home to a whole lot more: photo galleries, condition reports, and a running blog detailing the MANhoney's exploits. New England-based climbers should definitely look at the photos... This is the best collection of shots of hard New England winter climbs anywhere. With a long winter just around the corner, this site is just the thing to get ready and psyched!

Continue reading "Calling All Blog Junkies" »

November 17, 2008

Jon Bowermaster in the News

Read a Men's Vogue profile of Mountain Hardwear athlete Jon Bowermaster.

Listen to Jon's interview with Scientific American, about climate change's impact upon Antarctica and its creatures.

Continue reading "Jon Bowermaster in the News" »

November 5, 2008

Check out MHW's Fall Gear Giveaway!

Through the month of November, visit http://weathertheweather.mountainhardwear.com for your chance to win some great Mountain Hardwear gear.

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Try your luck now!

This month, we're focusing on outdoor aerobic activities -- so if you're a runner, hiker, or just enjoy long approaches, our November prize packages will make you happy.

Continue reading "Check out MHW's Fall Gear Giveaway!" »

October 30, 2008

Help Support Rowan Jimenez: 2 Upcoming Fundraisers to Raise Funds for Employee Lung Transplant

Mountain Hardwear, Montrail and friends are sponsoring two upcoming fundraisers to help cover the uninsured costs of Rowan Jimenez's recent lung transplant, a valued employee at Mountain Hardwear and Montrail since 2001. In addition to being a rock star and musician, Rowan plays an integral role in the Warranty Department handling all international warranty claims, orders and situations.

Rowan was diagnosed in 2003 with Scleroderma, an autoimmune condition that began to manifest in his lungs in the Spring of 2007. In 2008, it became clear that a lung transplant would be inevitable. Rowan underwent the $800K procedure in September. After a very successful operation, he is now recovering nicely. For more of his personal story, please visit his blog at: www.rowanjimenez.com.

To help offset the uninsured transplant-related costs, friends of Rowan are hosting two bay-area fundraising events to help him and his family.

Full Lung Capacity Benefit Bouldering Comp

Saturday, November 1st at Berkeley Iron Works
800 Potter St. in Berkeley
6-10pm
$25-$100 donation for climbing comp, acro-yoga, DJ, good food and drinks

For more info go to: http://apps.facebook.com/causes/106208?recruiter_id=5382932

Rowan Is Rising! Recycle Life Fundraiser

Sunday, December 7th at Pizzaiolo
5008 Telegraph in Oakland
5-10pm

Silent auction, great food, open bar and live music by the Venezuelan Music Ensemble w/ Jackie Rago and Rootsy Bluegrass with Heller Highwater

$125 at the door or $100 in advance

Continue reading "Help Support Rowan Jimenez: 2 Upcoming Fundraisers to Raise Funds for Employee Lung Transplant" »

October 27, 2008

Read Micah Dash's Blog

Micah Dash now has a blog! Keep up with Micah at Micahdash.com

Continue reading "Read Micah Dash's Blog" »

October 21, 2008

Kitty Wallace: Youngest British Female to Redpoint 8a

In Kalymnos, September 23rd, 14 year old Kitty Wallace from London became the youngest British female to redpoint a confirmed 8a on rock, with an ascent of Daniboy.

Kitty

The hardest redpoint from a British junior prior to this was Leah Crane's ascent of Orion, also in Kalymnos. This was originally graded 8a, but was subsequently downgraded to 7c+, which nonetheless was still the hardest to date. There is no chance of Daniboy being downgraded and it is widely regarded as being a very hard 8a.

The route is 20 metres high and overhangs continuously. The climbing style is powerful moves between reasonable but widely spaced handholds. Kitty worked it over 2 days and did it first redpoint on her third day.

Continue reading "Kitty Wallace: Youngest British Female to Redpoint 8a" »

October 15, 2008

2 Weeks Left to Enter our Photo Contest

Mountain Hardwear's photo contest ends on October 31, so you have 2 more weeks to submit your climbing photographs and win prizes.

"Do people really win?" you ask.

Why yes.

Blake Harrington won First Prize last week. Blake took home a Splitter pack. We're giving out three more First Prizes and a Grand Prize.

Continue reading "2 Weeks Left to Enter our Photo Contest" »

October 13, 2008

Fire on Angel Island

By Cynthia Houng

Driving home from the mountains last night, we crossed over the hill's brow and saw Angel Island outlined in flame.

October 12 Fire on Angel Island

Photo by SFist reader Jay Rodriguez, taken from neighboring Yerba Buena Island. See more of Jay's photographs on SFist

The fire shimmered on the Bay, a dark coppery red. From our vantage point in the East Bay hills, the red flames resembled molten lava.

Later, on the news, we watched helicopters circle over head, white flames gathering where land meets water. The weekend was dry and hot, and strong winds fanned the flames. The Angel Island spread from 5 acres to ten, growing exponentially by the hour.

Continue reading "Fire on Angel Island" »

October 7, 2008

Greetings from Dharamsala

By Janet Bergman

I am writing with scabs on the backs of my hands and legs still sore, so the short of it is, yes, we did get to climb! As luck has it, I do not have to get into all the nitty gritty details of the account, because Pat already did, for the backcountry.com blog (who supplied us with oodles of freeze dried dinners and gu's!):

Did you read it? OK, here are my comments to add:

Our all-out-light-and-fast-town-to-town style of ascent (vs our original plan of establishing porter-supported camps along the way) was quite the adventure, and one of the most challenging physical undertakings I've ever had. Our choice to go ultra light (e.g. single set of cams per team) limited the lines we could choose, meaning easier climbing, but less optimal rock conditions (e.g. snowy, icy, wet, loose) and protection options. Freddie was, excuse my language, like a pig in shit on this type of terrain, while I was, at one point, squealing that I wanted to go wee wee all the way home.Too many seasons on good Cathedral, Yosemite and Patagonia granite I guess. It was my first time participating in this type of first ascent, and I remain in awe at the amount of experience Freddie (and Ben and Pat for that matter) has accumulated on every conceivable type of alpine terrain.

Continue reading "Greetings from Dharamsala" »

August 25, 2008

Help Plan Yosemite's Future

This weekend, we drove up to Yosemite National Park to meet some friends from out of town. We spent the day in Tuolumne Meadows, then met our friends at Curry Village for dinner. The high-summer crowds were out in full force. Curry Village felt like an amusement park, festive and a little claustrophobic. As we stood in line for our buffet dinner, I picked up a flyer with an intriguing headline.

"Park Planning Underway Now!" read the flyer. "Get involved."

Upon closer inspection, I realized that the flyer was an invitation to participate in the planning process for the Tuolumne and Merced River Plans, the management plans that guide the National Park Service's day-to-day operations along the Tuolumne and Merced River corridors. Both the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers are protected under the Wild & Scenic Rivers Act, and the Park Service is required to preserve the rivers' Wild & Scenic character, while providing park visitors with adequate services and amenities.

The NPS is currently creating comprehensive management plans for the Tuolumne and Merced Rivers, which both run through Yosemite National Park. As part of the process, the NPS must solicit public comment on its proposed management plans.

The flyer invited park visitors to read planning documents on the NPS website, and then submit comments for the public record.

Producing these management plans is no cakewalk. Planners must balance multiple agencies (from federal agencies, like the Bureau of Land Management, to local agencies), often with conflicting interests, and comply with federal legislation. The planning documents are arcane and difficult to understand, and the Environmental Impact Statements (EIS) are even worse.

This may all seem like a tedious bureaucratic exercise, but the resulting Tuolumne River Plan/Tuolume Meadow Plan and New Merced River Plan will both have a significant impact upon our experience of Yosemite National Park. These plans will guide future development within Yosemite, and may change or even limit visitor access to certain areas of the park.

Continue reading "Help Plan Yosemite's Future" »

August 21, 2008

Gannett Peak -- Wyoming's High Point

By Ryan Riggs, MHW International

I guess 16 state highpoints in one calendar year isn't too bad for a couple of dads that hold down full-time jobs. Last week my buddy Brian and I were able to summit Gannett Peak in Wyoming for state #16 (Others we've done: OR, WA, ID, ME, NH, VT, NY, NJ, PA, MD, WV, DE, CT, MA and RI). Depending on who you talk to, Gannett Peak is ranked #2 or #3 amongst the state highpoints in difficulty, either ahead or behind Mt. Rainier, with Mt. McKinley easily holding down the #1 spot. My opinion...Gannett is a lot more work than Rainier, but has a much more rewarding approach. The Titcomb Basin of the Wind River Range could possibly be one of the most beautiful places on earth.

Lake, Wyoming

View More Photographs from Ryan's Trip

Gannett Peak sits at 13,804' and requires about 40-50 miles of backpacking and 11,000 ft of elevation gain round trip. The trailhead starts at 9300', so if you do the math that equals a lot of up and down. It should be said that there are so many lakes in the basin that this trip could be divided up a million different ways. Also, I think we were the only people we saw in the basin that didn't have a fly rod with them. The fishing is spectacular...from what I saw and heard. We decided to do the trip in four days.

Continue reading "Gannett Peak -- Wyoming's High Point" »

August 13, 2008

Mountain Hardwear Gives Back: Angel Island

By Alex Baires, Mountain Hardwear Design Team

Thanks in part to the Mountain Hardwear Gives Back program we continued our partnership with REI Berkeley (San Francisco and Corte Madera stores also joined in) and Clif Bar & Company on June 18, 2008 with a project on Angel Island. REI Berkeley's Amber Hoffmann (Outreach Specialist) as well as Clif Bar & Company's Patrick Bush and Amy Guittard were responsible for organizing and making this project a success. The night before the project, several volunteers camped on Angel Island and we spent an absolutely beautiful night on the island before getting down and dirty with the service project the following day.

When it was all said and done, Mountain Hardwear had 22% of our entire staff volunteering on this project with nearly every department being represented. Even our executive team got in the act with 4 out of 5 executives joining in and getting their hands (and everything else) dirty.

View photographs from our Angel Island event.

Amber Hoffman, of REI Berkeley, contributed the following write-up:

Continue reading "Mountain Hardwear Gives Back: Angel Island" »

August 8, 2008

Three Days in Ouray

By Jessica Riquetti, Mountain Hardwear Design Team

Three days is what it takes. Three days is what it takes to convert us, the Mountain Hardwear Product Team, into enthusiastic ice climbers. In February, the six of us left our desks in Richmond, California and journeyed to Ouray, Colorado for the all women's ice climbing event called "Chicks with Picks." Tracey and Stephanie had ice climbed before but for the rest of us the idea of clinging to a wall of ice seemed a bit overwhelming and the concept somewhat like "stepping into a massive freezer." It turns out all we needed to bring was a good attitude and good warm gear.

Once we arrived we were taken under the wing of extraordinary women who spend their days guiding ice climbing trips around the world. First things first, and we were introduced to the plethora of spikes and straps this sport seems to involve. Once we got the harnesses on right side up and the crampons fitted to our boots, we were off to the ice walls of Ouray.

Continue reading "Three Days in Ouray" »

August 5, 2008

Guiding the Bugaboos

East-Post-Spire-SM.jpg

By Dawn Glanc

The Bugaboos, located in British Columbia, have been a place that I have read and heard about for years. Every time I saw a photo of the splitter granite spires, I would dream of climbing them. The place seemed magical and very alluring. The alpine climbing seemed perfect. On July 20, my dream of going to the Bugaboos became a reality. I received this guiding assignment with a giant smile.

I began the long drive from Bellingham Washington on that sunny Sunday morning with my new partner for the next 12 days, Michael Lowery. During the drive Michael and I got to know one another. We also discussed what we planned to climb. We had a long hit list of routes. The day went on with the pedal to the medal. By the days end we arrived in the town of Radium to enjoy our last dinner at the local pub.

In the morning we made the long drive into the Provincial Park. We did the last minute gear shuffle as quick as possible, while getting eaten alive by the mosquitoes. We then barricaded the van from the porcupines, who are rumored to enjoy eating brake lines and other important hoses. When the van was secure, I turned on my I-pod, hit shuffle, and began the 3 hour hike into the alpine playground.

View Photographs from Dawn's trip to the Bugaboos

Continue reading "Guiding the Bugaboos" »

July 30, 2008

Welcome to Masochist Mountain: the 13th Annual Wasatch Wobble

WasatchFlyerLogo-sm.jpg

Join us in Salt Lake City for this year's Wasatch Wobble fun run. Sign up at the Montrail booth at OR (#26013). We will donate your $10 entry fee to the Conservation Alliance. Show up in front of the Salt Palace at 6 am sharp on Sunday, August 10th, to catch the shuttle bus to the Bonneville Shoreline Trail.

Space is limited -- we have slots for only 300 participants, so sign up early!

View our flyer for the Wasatch Wobble.

Sponsored by Montrail, TrailRunner, Nuun, Jetboil, Adventure Medical Kits, Nathan, Mountain Hardwear, and Allterrain Co.

Continue reading "Welcome to Masochist Mountain: the 13th Annual Wasatch Wobble" »

With Love from Wyoming

Jessa Goebel and her crew tear it up in Wyoming!

All photographs by Jessa Goebel, Kevin Wilkinson, and Alli Rainey.

jessa

Jessa

Kevin

Kevin

View more photographs of Kevin, Jessa, and Alli on Flickr

Continue reading "With Love from Wyoming" »

Andrew Mclean: Mountain Unicycle Video

Mountain Hardwear athlete Andrew McLean appears in this little video about Mountain Unicycling.

July 16, 2008

The Mad Mingulayans

View Neil's photographs from the Outer Hebrides

By Neil Gresham

'THE MAD MINGULAYANS'

...or so we were called by Patrick, our skipper, whose unenviable task was to sail us to the island of Mingulay in the Outer Hebrides in June 08. My regular climbing partner Mark Garthwaite had been trying to get a team to Mingulay for the last four years, but every year we made our excuses. The amount of effort involved seemed disproportionate to the rewards. We had heard tales of teams who were stranded in their tents for a fortnight having managed no climbing whatsoever. But with Garth's persuasion we finally agreed to take our chances on what the Climbers Club website describes as 'the best sea cliff in the UK'. We can put up with a few days of rain with a claim like that.

Ardfern Port

We set sail from Ardfern and took turns to help Patrick sail throughout the night. Our main tasks were to make him tea and keep watch for lobster pots which might tangle with the propeller - God forbid that he would trust a bunch of sleep deprived climbers with anything more serious. My shift came at 4am as we turned passed Mull and headed out into the open water and I was awe struck as the sun turned the ocean turned crimson beneath the etched silhouettes of Rhum and Col.

Continue reading "The Mad Mingulayans" »

DIY Domestic Arts: Jam-Making

This spring, I learned how to make jam. For years I'd stayed away from making jam, convinced that the process was somehow arduous. It turns out that jam-making is simpler than it seems. There are only 2 potentially tricky stages in jam-making:

(1) Getting the jam to set, or gell, properly.

Pectin, a natural substance found in most fruits, causes jam to "set," or harden. We made our jams with the help of store-bought pectin, but there are pectin-free recipes out there that rely solely on the fruit's natural pectin. Different fruits contain different amounts of pectin. Learning the proper combination of sugar, lemon, and pectin can be tricky. Certain stone fruits (like plums) take longer to set. The jam appears watery. And then, suddenly, it's solid.

(2) Getting the jam jar to seal.

If the jar doesn't look like it's going to seal all on its own, pop it into a boiling water bath. Pad the bottom of the pot with a little dishtowel, so the jars don't bounce around and break.

If they still refuse to seal, keep the jam in the fridge!

Continue reading "DIY Domestic Arts: Jam-Making" »

July 15, 2008

Mixed Meister

View Will's photographs from Mixed Meister

By William Meinen

Cutting your Teeth on Alpine Rock: Mixed Meister 5.10d 2400'

With the weather slowly shaping up for alpine rock routes in the Rockies, I was looking for something to kick off the season.

Although some find his style of routes setting controversial, Andy Genereux has established more high quality multi-pitch routes in the Bow Valley than anyone else I can think of. Mostly done ground up while bolting on lead (using natural gear whenever possible), Andy Genereux has a natural eye for classic lines.

In 2007, along with a handful of other great first ascents, Genereux (with help from Urs Kallen) pushed a very direct line up the tallest aspect of Goat Slabs and called the creation Mixed Meister. I have climbed several of Andy's routes and had a great time on all of them. I read a review posted by someone who attempted Mixed Meister and he accused Andy of not actually climbing the route, but suggested he rapped down and placed some bolts on the last several pitches and called it a route. He then advised fellow climbers not to climb the route due to loose rock, difficult route finding, and run-out nature. If you ask me it sounded like the perfect way to train for the alpine!

Continue reading "Mixed Meister" »

July 7, 2008

Squamish

Squamish: The Grand Wall

View more Photographs from Will's trip

By Will Meinen

On the west coast of Canada, just north of Vancouver, you can find one of the best climbing destinations that the country has to offer.

With a slow start to the alpine rock season here in the Rockies, I've been doing a lot of road tripping to less wintery destinations, such as Red Rocks and Zion, trying to get my fix of long rock routes. On a whim, I booked some tickets to Squamish. It had been several years since my last visit there, and I figured it was time for a return visit.

Continue reading "Squamish" »

July 2, 2008

Meet Freddie's Green Side

This morning, Freddie Wilkinson revealed that he's recently began writing for the Huffington Post's "Green" page. He has a nice opinion piece on China's "Olympic" summit, and another on "Yard Sale economics."

These pieces show a different side of Freddie. if you've enjoyed Freddie's pieces on climbing, you'll like these pieces.

Continue reading "Meet Freddie's Green Side" »

June 27, 2008

Western States 100 Cancelled

A smoky sun hangs over the Auburn courthouse

For the first time in its history, the Western States 100 has been cancelled. (Montrail, Mountain Hardwear's sister company, sponsors the Western State 100.) The organizers cancelled the race for 3 reasons: "1. Proximity of the fire to the race course...2. Air quality deterioration...3. Safety of our runners."

This photograph, by Kari Niles, a Western States 100 volunteer, gives us some idea of the air quality in Auburn, California. You can't see the smoke here, just haze, but you can see that the particulates have shifted the light, transforming the sun into a reddish disk.

Continue reading "Western States 100 Cancelled" »

June 24, 2008

Tenth Wedding Anniversary on Tallac

On Top of Tallac

View Mat's photos on Flickr

By Mat Peterson, Mountain Hardwear Planning Team

My wife and I made the quick drive up to Lake Tahoe to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary and renew our vows at the top of Mount Tallac. In my mind Tallac is the by far the most majestic of peaks shooting up of the base of Lake Tahoe.

After working out the early morning kinks from our previous days Mountain bike ride on North Shores Spooner Rim trail we got started on our journey up Tallac, an absolutely stunning peak that shoots up off the lake about 3,800 feet and peaks out around 9,800 feet. It was a perfect day for hiking, 79 degrees and balmy. The plan was to get to the top, renew our vows, eat lunch, hang out for a bit, and make our way back. Little did we know there was bit of adventure in store. About half way up just after we passed of the ridge over looking beautiful Falling Leaf Lake we met Frank.

Continue reading "Tenth Wedding Anniversary on Tallac" »

June 23, 2008

Lightning Strikes

This weekend, dry lightning ignited a swarm of wildfires in Northern California. By Monday morning, Cal Fire (the California agency responsible for tracking and fighting wildfires) counted approximately 90 small fires in Mendocino county, and another 75 in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest. (View Calfire's map of current, active wildfires.)

Fires burned closer to home, in Napa County, in Santa Cruz (the third devastating wildfire in recent weeks), and in Brisbane, a small city south of San Francisco.

Last night, we drove up into the Berkeley hills and sat near the top of Grizzly Peak, "just because." (We were also out on a hunt for banana cream pie, but that's irrelevant.) From Grizzly Peak, we could see an enormous plume of smoke rising from the peninsula. It was the smoke from the Brisbane fire.

By Monday morning, the Brisbane fire had been contained, and firefighters reported that their containment efforts, aided by cooler weather (and the return of the Bay Area's usual summer fog), were beginning to rein in the Napa and Santa Cruz fires.

As of this moment, the air is still hazy with smoke, a reminder of fire's undeniable place in the California landscape. It is not a pleasant experience. The particulates cloud the air, sting the eyes, and settle in the throat. As global warming continues and Northern California's climate grows hotter and drier, scientists expect more wildfires in our region.

Continue reading "Lightning Strikes" »

Magical Alaska

View Julia's photographs from Alaska

By Julia Niles

There is something about Alaska that is magical. Alaska is a warm, gooey amoeba that envelops you sucking you in to great times and good people. Strangers are unreasonably friendly and friends show up in the unlikeliest of places. This trip to Alaska proved the theory.

Continue reading "Magical Alaska" »

June 13, 2008

Space Shot

By Will Meinen

It pretty much rained the entire month of May here in the Rockies, so I headed South to Utah with my buddy Brent for a relaxing trip up some classic Zion big walls.

It's still snowing in the Canadian Rockies. I'm headed to Squamish, BC for some sunshine and granite cracks on the Chief.

Enjoy the video.

Continue reading "Space Shot" »

Summer Travel Reading List

Summer's here and we're ready to hit the road. Call us old-fashioned, but we like to tuck a few books into our luggage, for those in-between moments in the airport, or the quiet hours after dark, when we're safe in our tents. We like everything from high literature to noir, with a little classic mountaineering literature thrown into the mix. What are you reading this summer?

Sam Magro, Alpinist/Climber

Fierce Invalids Home from Hot Climates--by Tom Robbins

If you expect to be spending some time in a tent I would suggest some of the wild fiction by Tom Robbins. This particular novel takes place all over the world from the jungles of Peru, to the deserts of Syria, and even passes through the Vatican in Rome. After reading this book during on a road trip I later named some new rock routes after the title as I had just returned to Montana after some hot climbing in California.....enjoy.

Freddie Wilkinson, Alpinist/Climber

Solo Faces - James Salter

I know, I know: climbing fiction is hokey, no doubt about it. But this tale, loosely based on the life of the beatnik alpinist Gary Hemming, defies the typically underwhelming standards of the genre. The reason probably has to do with Salter's mastery of language -- he's a writer, not a climber. Yet alpine climbing is a pursuit that dovetails nicely with the post-modern themes prevalent in Salter's other works: the moral void that fosters excessive risk-taking, self-loathing, suicide, and lots of steamy, meaningless sex. His is a world where individuals wander through life alone, strangers to themselves as much as the alien world around them. Set primarily on the cold, grey north faces of the Alps, this is simply the best book ever written about the darker side of alpinism.

Andrew McLean, Ski Mountaineer

A Man on the Moon - Andrew Chaikin

The adventure book to end all adventure books! If you think being stuck in a small tent in Antarctica is a wild adventure, try strapping yourself to the top of a 300' tall tower of explosives and getting blasted into space where rescue isn't an option. This book reminded me of a 2,000 person expedition to the wildest location possible with the astronauts acting as a summit team with a huge basecamp support crew which included some of the most brilliant visionary minds of the time.

Continue reading "Summer Travel Reading List" »

June 9, 2008

The Truck Got Stuck

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More Photos from Will & Cory's big adventure

By Will Meinen

When a couple of New England athletes came to the Rockies for a Mountain Hardwear Photo Shoot, photographer Cory Richards asked me if I would rope gun for a day and help him set up his riggings. Although it's more glamorous to be the subject in photos, someone also has to be the behind-the-scenes man to help prep the stage (so to speak).

Over some pints Cory and I discussed different climbs in hopes of finding something worthy of Freddie and company. We eventually decided on Hydrophobia. It's long, sustained, remote, dramatic, and exposed. It had all the ingredients we were looking for.

"Do you want me to drive?" I asked.

"Don't worry about it," Cory said. "We'll take my truck."

I always end up driving into the ghost because most of my partners don't have suitable vehicles so I figured it would be a nice change to be the passenger for once.

Continue reading "The Truck Got Stuck" »

June 6, 2008

Red Rocks Spring 2008

View Jessa's Photographs from Red Rocks

By Jessa Goebel

Winters in Boone can be grim. Every year as soon as spring hits and the weather is warmer off the mountain it is time to make an exodus to the warmer sunnier Western US. The spring is usually means it is time to go out west and climb something 'big'. This year I was lucky enough to be able to go to Red Rocks outside Las Vegas, NV. For years I have had friends tell me how great the climbing in Red Rocks was, this year I would go see what it was about.

Continue reading "Red Rocks Spring 2008" »

June 4, 2008

Tents for Earthquake Relief

We make tents. So, in the wake of the terrible earthquake in Sichuan, China, it's only natural that we should send tents to help house those left homeless by the quake. On June 2nd, 2008, 628 two- and three-person tents arrived in China. The UPS Foundation paid for the shipment. In total, the UPS Foundation moved 125,216 pounds of donated supplies.

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Tents and other relief supplies, exiting the hold

View more photographs

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May 30, 2008

The Coolest 24 Hour Race Against Cancer

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By Sean McDevitt, MHW Tent Designer

In the days leading up to the Coolest 24 Hour Race Against Cancer, I thought about my love for racing my mountain bike for 24 hours. I am no young up and coming racer, I have a full time career designing and developing tents and bivies for Mountain Hardwear. As a life long athlete, I have never been good with moderation. I am either full in or not. When I ran, I ran marathons and ultra marathons, when I climbed, I free-climbed El Capitan or Lost Arrow Spire. But in regards to my love of 24 solo bike racing, I am reminded of a quote from Steve Prefontaine:

"A lot of people run a race to see who is fastest. I run to see who has the most guts, who can punish himself into exhausting pace, and then at the end, punish himself even more."
- Steve Prefontaine

At noon on May 3rd I rolled out in the back of the pack of 24 solo riders as the race began. It was my third 24 solo bike race since September. I had improved at every race; I was hoping to better my 16th place at Old Pueblo. I took my time as I slowly reeled rider after rider in. Half way through the lap the top teams relay riders caught me and passed me. I was just trying ride within myself. I finished the lap with my buddy Pat who was racing 8 hour duo and doubling with Jonas as my pit crew.

Lap after lap I tried not to think about going 24 hours. I had learned to turn my brain off; 24 hours was just too much to bear psychologically. After 3 or 4 hours of racing in 90F weather the fresh legs gave way to a two pronged attack of nausea and cramping legs. After the 5th time I gagged trying to swallow Endurolyte pills I started chewing them. After chewing maybe 20 pills I rolled into my pit to try some crackers to settle my stomach. It was a bad sign that I had trouble swallowing; but a good sign that I had done 78 miles of mountain biking in roughly 7 hours.

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Around 8pm I rolled into camp for a quick dinner; change of kit and to put on lights. As I shoveled tortellini, I heard over a speaker "And in first place 8 hour duo, my grandma rules." Grinning from ear to ear, medals in hand, Pat and Jonas strolled into camp then quickly got me rolling with fresh bottles and lights. At midnight I rolled into camp and changed batteries and forced down more tortellini and bread. As I rolled out for more Jonas mentioned that they were crashing for the night. They had prepped all my bottles, food and batteries for the remainder of the night. It was up to me; all I had to do was to pedal.

Continue reading "The Coolest 24 Hour Race Against Cancer" »

April 25, 2008

Building a Bouldering Wall

A few weeks ago, three guys from Vertical Solutions showed up at our headquarters to build us a bouldering wall. Al Liu photographed the process, and we'd like to share Al's photos with you.

Click here to view the photo set

Hello Ethan

Ethan Pringle peers over the edge

Ethan Pringle joined the Mountain Hardwear team in February. Rather than put words in his mouth, I'll just let Ethan introduce himself.

By Ethan Pringle

Born and raised in the Mission district of San Francisco, I was introduced to the wonders of nature before I could walk. My parents -- semi professional windsurfers and outdoor enthusiasts -- brought me everywhere. As an infant, I was in a backpack on hikes and on the back of my mom's bicycle on coastal rides. They took me on their adventure trips in the Sierras, on the wild California coast, and abroad. By the time I was five I'd been to Canada, Mexico, Australia and several Caribbean islands, places that most people don't get to visit in their entire lives. As a toddler, I scrambled over crags at Donner Pass and over rocky shores accessible only at low tide. I loved watching wildlife and enjoying the beauty of undeveloped land. My parents taught me to ski at age three. At six, I taught myself to snowboard on an oversize board and Sorrels - back then the sport was so new that child-sized equipment was unavailable. I became fond of being high off the ground, flying through the air over table-top jumps in Tahoe freestyle parks and even entered competitions - grommet division. At seven, I fell in love with Roller hockey. I played center on a championship team and was a complete 'rink' rat, spending every minute I could on my skates.

Then I discovered climbing. I first set foot in Mission Cliffs at age eight. Mission cliffs was and still is one of the premier climbing gyms in the country and happens to be only Four blocks from my home. We stopped in there out of curiosity on my way home from hockey practice. I was instantly hooked. To me climbing made perfect sense. I got my first pair of climbing shoes (5.10 Diamonds -- woman's shoes), and harness (Petzl Hirundos, pink). Soon afterward, climbing eclipsed everything else and Mission Cliffs became my second home. I still snowboarded, but my hockey skates got dusty and were forgotten.

Continue reading "Hello Ethan" »

April 23, 2008

Mountain Hardwear Basecamp in Escalante

The Outnback crew goes canyoneering in Escalante...with a little help from Mountain Hardwear.

April 2, 2008

These Walls Were Made for Climbing (and that's just what we'll do!)

After recently moving up the waterfront to a new office building, we realized that we now had plenty of space - the kind of space that you want to use for good times and recreating. We'd been mulling over the idea of installing a climbing wall for quite some time, and our new building has allowed that plan to finally take shape.

We were insanely fortunate to acquire the services of Vertical Solutions. To say these guys know how to build a wall is an understatement. They can work wood like it's nobody's business but their own. The custom designs they create are based on simple, elegant curves. Lots of heart, sweat, thought and focus go into each wall they design and build. Ours is certainly no exception. Many of us here are almost reluctant to climb on it - being something akin to scrambling over a public statue. This reluctance will last a good two seconds once the holds go up though.

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We want to extend a HUGE thanks to John and his crew at Vertical Solutions. They drove all the way out from Salt Lake City, braving sub-par hotels, long hours, and overpriced lumber yards to create for us a lasting statement to our brand and a sport we love. We want to thank Dustin at 3DVO for putting up with us and getting this project moving. A dedication to good service and a good, unique product is a hallmark trait for these guys.

Now enjoy a few pictures of a wall being born! We'll show you the finished wall once some routes are set!

Continue reading "These Walls Were Made for Climbing (and that's just what we'll do!)" »

March 25, 2008

Easter Powder Feast

Andrew treats us to a little something from the weekend. Enjoy!

March 24, 2008

MHW Gives Back: Flex Our Muscles for Berkeley's Paths

Flex those muscles

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Cardboard boxes. Construction dust. Loud noises generated by heavy machinery. These can only mean one thing -- we've finally moved into our new offices.

Moving is always a logistical nightmare. What do you do when you are moving large numbers of people and equipment? Answer: You shut down your operations for one day. But what do you do with all those people?

Some of us took the time off. Others, like myself, decided to take advantage of Mountain Hardwear's generous Gives Back program, and volunteer our services for one day.

Five of us--Valerie, Caitlin, Sean, Adrian, and myself--signed up to work with the Berkeley Path Wanderers Association. The BPWA is a grassroots organized dedicated to preserving and maintaining Berkeley's footpaths.

Continue reading "MHW Gives Back: Flex Our Muscles for Berkeley's Paths" »

April 7, 2008

Mountain Hardwear Portland Store

front door of the portland store

Click here to view more photographs from the Portland store

We're hanging out our own shingle--and opening our first store in Portland, Oregon. Join us for a series of special events!

Mike Wallenfels, our company president, will lead the ribbon cutting on April 11th, 2008. Portland's own KNRK will broadcast from the Portland store from noon until 2 pm. On April 12th, catch a slideshow by Mike Libecki. On April 13th, listen to Montrail athlete Matt Hart talk about his experiences. From April 11th through 13th, the first 25 customers through the door will receive a Defender day pack. From April 14th through 17th, the first 25 customers through the door will receive a Rugger day pack. Plus, we will donate 10% of our sales for the entire month of April to Multnomah County's Friends of Outdoor School, a local organization that sends 6th graders to science camp.*

Find our new store at 722 SW Taylor in downtown Portland.

Here are some conceptual sketches, to whet your appetite. Check back for photographs.

Welcome to our new store

Front door of Mountain Hardwear's Portland Store

Click Image to Enlarge


An elevation view of our store

Elevation view of the Portland Store

Click Image to Enlarge


Continue reading "Mountain Hardwear Portland Store" »

March 13, 2008

24 Hours in Old Pueblo - 2008 Edition

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By Sean McDevitt

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The Return

At noon on Saturday February 15th, outside of Tucson, Arizona, I ran down a dirt road with a thousand other bike racers. I was racing in the worlds largest 24 hour mountain bike race solo; 24 Hours in the Old Pueblo. Can a product developer/designer be competitive with world class athletes? Prepared with months of structured training, seasoned with a year of 24 hour racing, I had come with the confidence that I could do more than survive riding my mountain bike for 24 hours; I was aiming for a top 10 finish.

The Preparation

I am not a full time pro-mountain biker; I have a full time day job as a product developer/designer at Mountain Hardwear. I have fallen into the pattern of doing 3-4 24 solo mountain bike races per year. My training consists of riding 30 minutes to work, riding at lunch for a hour, 30 minutes home then a 2 hour night ride on my mountain bike. I ride 6 days a week, about 20 hours, come rain, sleet or snow. The weeks of rain and abnormally low temperatures have definitely put up the question "How bad do you want it?" As I pedaled my S08 Cannondale Carbon Scalped through patches of ice and snow on the closed road of Mt Abel the day after Christmas, I guess I wanted it bad.

Continue reading "24 Hours in Old Pueblo - 2008 Edition" »

February 27, 2008

Mountain Hardwear Moves Sustainably into the Future with Step Backward in Time

Freddie Wilkinson in front of the new MHW headquarters

View More Pictures of MHW's new Headquarters

By B. James Bottoms, Mountain Hardwear Director of Operations

On March 17, 2008 Mountain Hardwear is moving our headquarters to the Ford Assembly Plant in Richmond, California.

The Ford Plant is located directly on the San Francisco Bay and is connected to the San Francisco Bay Trail. The building is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and will host the visitor/education center and bookstore for the Rosie the Riveter/World War II Home Front National Historical Park.

The Ford Assembly Plant was designed by the renowned architect Albert Kahn in 1930. It is a quarter of a mile long and contains 560,000 square feet. Kahn included features that would be considered sustainable today such as the saw tooth roof design with large northern skylights which provide incredible natural light and hinged windows along the western and northern walls which draw in the cool bay breeze. The Ford Motor Company built automobiles in the plant from 1931 to 1955 except for the three years from 1942 to 1945 when the plant was converted to war-time production. The building is an icon of design and fortitude. To learn more about the building and its history, please visit Rosietheriveter.org's Ford Assembly Plant History page.

By re-appropriating some of open factory space, the original suite of managers' offices and the former product showroom, all of which had been practically abandoned for more than 25 years, we were able to design and build our space with a focus on sustainability.

Continue reading "Mountain Hardwear Moves Sustainably into the Future with Step Backward in Time" »

February 21, 2008

Photo Shoot Fun

Cameron points his camera at Julia

More Pictures

Julia Niles and Andrew McLean bravely set off for a mid-winter MHW photoshoot. Andrew sent some great photographs and this short note:

The first day started off with very discouraging weather as it was flat, cloudy light and crusty snow down low. But, in the time it took us to make the first climb, the upper elevation clouds burned off and created a very cool lighting scenario with clouds on one side of the ridge and clear, sunny slopes on the other. We ended up on the summit of Mt. Superior which is one of the more classic peaks in the Wasatch, and much to my surprise, the skiing down the backside was excellent. I was expecting crusty, wind-jacked snow, but it was silky smooth old powder.

After skiing, we went down to Lone Star Taqueria, which is the Mexi-food place of choice for skiers and boarders. Once we got there, Julia all of a sudden goes, "Shit! I left that entire bag of samples in the parking lot!" We drove back to the Big Cottonwood Park & Ride, and there, half an hour later, was the bag of MHW samples sitting untouched right in the middle of the lot! Julia was psyched, to say the least.

The next day we ate more Mexi-food, cruised around downtown SLC and then went back up into Little Cottonwood Canyon. The weather service had issued a Winter Storm warning to start at 2:00pm and it arrived almost to the minute. We set up some tents near the LCC stream and it proceed to dump at a rate of about 2" per hour, so we also got some good bad weather photos.

February 20, 2008

Kids, Don't Try This At Home

Andrew decides to ski without a helmet. Watch the results.

January 31, 2008

The Rehab Wall: The Rockies' Newest Mixed Crag

By William Meinen

With a new year came many new challenges. My first challenge was learning to walk again. My second challenge was learning to climb again. The physio was going well, and I was starting to hobble around sans crutches. Bob (my physiotherapist) was impressed with my progress. I asked him if it would be alright for me to start climbing again.

"Whoa there tiger. I wouldn't push things too quickly." Bob replied. "You'll want to ease yourself back into things very slowly."

"Can I go skiing?" I asked, knowing very well what he would say.

"That's even worse. Try swimming some laps at the pool first."

"What about some XC skiing?" I was getting desperate.

"Hmm. I suppose you could try it and see how it goes."

My partner Brandon Pullan always has something up his sleeve. When I told him of my physical status, he quickly set a plan in motion for the weekend. His web savvy skills helped him find a new area with supposed 'great potential for mixed climbing'. The report also said the approach was a bit on the long side but do-able via skis.

"Let's just ski in and take a look to see if it's worth while. It'll be good for you to get some exercise." Brandon said convincingly. He also convinced a mutual friend, Danny, to join us. With our bags packed with some ice climbing gear (just in case) we headed into the Evan Thomas Creek area.

I've been on several scouting missions with Brandon before. Most of the time they just end up in a wild goose chase that results in nothing but a frustrating bushwhack. Every once in a while we stumble across a magical area.

Continue reading "The Rehab Wall: The Rockies' Newest Mixed Crag" »